allez benga c’mon
It's halfway through the year so I hope it's not too late to join in. I've been registered with ukb for years but only just started posting now.My key goal for 2019 is my first 8a sport route. I'm just about to turn 58 and frankly the idea of me getting up an 8a seemed totally implausible. I had always been a trad climber (chuffer?) and had never tried redpointing. Seven years ago I had a session on Liquid Crystal in Cheddar and could do almost none of the moves. In fact I couldn't even hold on to loads of the holds. Totally shut down. In the intervening period I have done lots of sport 7s and so just doing more felt okay but also so what. Got back on Liquid Crystal recently and took four sessions to do all the moves (though one of them is low percentage) and a long link. So it feels like a matter of time now and I am psyched out of my tiny mind!
Is that the bit between clip 2 and 3?
It's a very bouldery route, with a definite crux. Is it a good route choice for you? I guess if you are super motivated for it though that will help. Good luck!
Quote from: monkoffunk on June 26, 2019, 11:03:40 amIs that the bit between clip 2 and 3?That is hard but it is no longer the crux for me as my sequence has fallen into place. Technical crux for me is the slap to the break after clip 3. Redpoint crux could turn out to be the last left hand move before clipping the top.
-- >8hrs sleep every nightGetting better at this-- tick off more from This is YorkshireNope. Super close on Ben's Sit trying to squeeze it over the line in April but no dice. Few sessions on Zoo and felt like it was getting there but it kept injuring my LH ring finger. Two sessions on The Fonz (working up to Mr C), did it in overlapping halves then never went back. One session on Treebeard sans spotter and got close but crikey you need a spotter. One rushed session post training on Sole and didn't match last year's high point.-- go sport climbing at least onceNope.-- 3x nemesis problems; Iron Man, Lager3 and RibticklerOne brief session on Iron Man and hadn't gone backwards. Had one session on Lager3 and got stupid close again, then didn't go back. Can't bring myself to go and try Ribtickler again just yet.-- better 2018 tally of 86 new problems 7A and up65 done already! Three week trip to Rocklands accounts for over a third of those but I honestly thought the updated guidebook grades were spot on.-- >25% of the above to be 7C and upTotally arbitrary attempt to beat my past self this, based on 25% in both 2017 and 2018. At 35% atm (23 done, more than I've ever done before in a whole year!). No chossy link ups either, all quality independent lines. Have loved doing lots of volume. As above Rocklands gave a good boost but again didn't think anything wasn't worth the guide grade.-- 7C on the Depot 50Hahaha not even slightly close. Best effort was a high point on Steady Intro, dropping the penultimate move, in Feb. That's probably the hardest I've ever climbed on the Board tbh but even if I'd finished it it's still not 7C.
As a bit of a distraction from the demise of UKB, it seems about time for a halfway update I think! Quote from: Bradders on January 02, 2019, 08:37:23 am-- >8hrs sleep every nightGetting better at this-- tick off more from This is YorkshireNope. Super close on Ben's Sit trying to squeeze it over the line in April but no dice. Few sessions on Zoo and felt like it was getting there but it kept injuring my LH ring finger. Two sessions on The Fonz (working up to Mr C), did it in overlapping halves then never went back. One session on Treebeard sans spotter and got close but crikey you need a spotter. One rushed session post training on Sole and didn't match last year's high point.-- go sport climbing at least onceNope.-- 3x nemesis problems; Iron Man, Lager3 and RibticklerOne brief session on Iron Man and hadn't gone backwards. Had one session on Lager3 and got stupid close again, then didn't go back. Can't bring myself to go and try Ribtickler again just yet.-- better 2018 tally of 86 new problems 7A and up65 done already! Three week trip to Rocklands accounts for over a third of those but I honestly thought the updated guidebook grades were spot on.-- >25% of the above to be 7C and upTotally arbitrary attempt to beat my past self this, based on 25% in both 2017 and 2018. At 35% atm (23 done, more than I've ever done before in a whole year!). No chossy link ups either, all quality independent lines. Have loved doing lots of volume. As above Rocklands gave a good boost but again didn't think anything wasn't worth the guide grade.-- 7C on the Depot 50Hahaha not even slightly close. Best effort was a high point on Steady Intro, dropping the penultimate move, in Feb. That's probably the hardest I've ever climbed on the Board tbh but even if I'd finished it it's still not 7C.
I’m guessing that you meant Western Front not Great Western. Because to go from trying an E6 then to lead an E3 to then end up dogging a VS would be impressive.
When is the lizard to lands end race? Sounds good.
I’m guessing that you meant Western Front not Great Western.
A maintain year I think due to complicated relationship visa problems....Climb 20 7A or harder including some in my anti styleyep, 22!Climb 30+ 7's againyep, 36!10-14 days in a warmer climate over winter fail - visa issues but got away alot Climb x3 7c's1 7c, 4 7b+sdid good safe trad instead, the pick being:White Wall, Bob Hope, Slanted and Enchanted, Goosey, Calamity Crack, Bat out of Hell, Bath house Pink.Plan a big trip for 2020yepSort out visa issues which is preventing tripsYYFY
That sort of form variance is enough to call his entire climbing CV into question, I'd say.
Broke my arm pretty badly in March trying to onsight Demolition at Sennen (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33153).
Thanks Cheque. Sport: 8a+ - Have chosen GBH, think the moves suit me and have the beta, will see how it goes with travelling and psyche. Boulder: 7B+/C - I’ve not bouldered harder than 7B and I think this is holding me back on the harder Peak Lime routes. Trad: Good mileage on E3 and E4 - a long weekend ticking the mid-grade classics at Pembroke, the Pass and Gogarth. Feel safe, get the love back. Try boat to Naxos on a top-rope if Ram goes back on his route. DWS: Mark of The Beast, Wizard of Oz Traverse with dinghy party & attempt new route. Belaying: 9a belay (current best 8c+). Also, as a long-shot, belay Simon on a season PB on the Oak. Other: Buy house, get Job, free Murciana ‘78 on the Bulnes. Good luck and Happy New Year UKB, still providing the goods. Thread of year = Poo-gate