[cheque]

Rehab Diaries Week Eighteen

M- Rest.

T- Fingerboard repeaters. Pleased with myself for still sticking to the plan.

W- Gym. Bike. +1 from the levels two weeks ago as usual.

T- Rest. Physio appointment. I knew this would be my last (the NHS physio can only realistically take you so far of course) but was surprised by how impressed he was with me- not a guy to “sugar the pill” at all so I know it was for real. Got the usual home truths as well as answers to my questions and new things to do. He says I should be working my whole body and nervous system and the recommendations all, to my surprise, involve free weights- holding kettlebells at my side to failure, squats with a shoulder-height barbell and deadlifts! Going to phase these in gradually as they, deadlifting in particular, scare me now.

Anyway, signed off by the physio. Just under nine months out from doomsday and the health service is very nearly finished with me. 

F- Foundry autobelays. Spent most of my time and effort on the black 6b+ on the right of the Furnace. This is relatively sustained on the steep two thirds then has two big rockovers on the top wall, both reachy and on my bad side, so it’s a challenge for a newly-short climber whose left foot still doesn’t follow orders properly!  Fell off the very last move (rocking onto the worst foothold) twice and couldn’t get back up there again but did work some other stuff afterwards to the point of failing on my 5+ warm-down.

S- Woke up with total jelly-forearms. Location scouting in PM: short walk with camera gear, very small bitoif scrambling too.

S- Gym AM. Tried the standing-on-Bosu ball-holding-kettlebells thing. 12kg ‘bells seems about right, with 5 minute spells at this level being suitably desperate. Did this x5 before doing other stuff which included leg-pressing 30.5kg (~half my weight) on my weak leg. 

More scouting in the PM.

A good week, more progress and a very positive experience with the physio. Lots to think about though. It’s odd looking at life (climbing in particular) thinking “I’m not what I was so I have to do things differently now”. But that’s not necessarily bad.

[Coops_13]

M:

T: Arch. Max hangs BM2K lower outside crimps 10 sets up to +26kg (new PB). One-legged board climbing, lock-offs and rings (I, Y, T)

W:

T: Arch. Stopped max hangs after five sets due to a split in skin. Spent rest of the session one-legged climbing on the 50

F:

S: Arch. Warmed up on the moonboard which ruined my skin and my ego, those problems are hard one-legged. Did a few more benchmarks at least. Then moved to weighted pull-ups up to +60kg. After a short rest, my one-armers were feeling strong (R-side only) and managed one on R side with +4kg added

S:

[Will Hunt]

Tuesday depot. Comp sacked off. Spent most of it on the 50 board. Did Baby Steps for the first time. Then something easy. Then did all the moves on Austrian Mock. Found the traverse quite fiddly and the Throw To Horn^TM very hard. One to work on.

[gollum]

Week 2 of putting stuff on here, so almost a habit.

BW - 67.5 which is about the same as last week. Can feel a cold on its way but resisting so far.

M - Cardio and stretching during the day.
Lunchtime 5 on 3 off on auto belay at Big Depot. 6c+, 6b, 6a. Felt very steady which is about right, so pleased. Still a really long time since I’ve actually been that far off the ground but getting comfortable with it and relaxing.
Evening at the Depot. Started with working some Yellows and Oranges for about an hour. Didn’t get to the top of any but made some pretty good progress.
Moved on to 5 sets of 3 problems. Did two of same ones as last week and a new fingery but not butch one. Got absolutely battered.Managed new one on every set, got roof problem twice and then slowly got worse, never topped out on third problem. Think I’d overcooked the effort before I started this, but put effort in so okay really…….well not but will see how rest of week goes.

T - Cardio and stretching in the morning.
Heavy pressing in the morning up to 100k Paused Bench and 37.5k OHP
Press ups and TRX in evening at gym. Found TRX tricky to sort out as angle either feels way too easy or like the living end, sure will sort out this as get more familiar.
FB Max hangs at home 8 x 10 seconds on each arm with 8kg taken off which is about 92% of Max

W - Trying to delay leaving the house so do a few sets of pull ups on the minute. 10 sets of 10 which feels steady enough. Then do some scapular work and stretching.
Cardio at Lunchtime.
Back to the Depot in the evening and back on 5 x 3 Boulders. Yellow for first problem and then two hard Purples. Felt much better than Monday and got through the whole set feeling relatively strong at the end. Chuffed.
Home to wrap presents which was much more challenging

T - Good bench and TRX Push session early morning together with some Cardio.
Depot in the evening. Steady warm up followed by a couple of Yellows I’ve done before. Main session was all the reds with target under an hour with no falls, if it weren’t for a dab going through the roof problem I’d have managed it although got all out of sorts on final slab problem. Finished off playing on a couple of yellows and the flashing one as I was on my way back to get changed and go home.

F - Good solid session of a wide range of pull-ups which included standard pull-ups, OAP, offset pulls, and archer pulls followed with some steady rack pulls.
Lunchtime 5 on 3 off session at Big Depot. Upped the effort a bit to 6c+,6b, 6c+ which still felt fine.
Finished off with a handful of problems on bouldering wall. Purple slab second go which was entertaining, flashed a yellow, thought another too hard for today and got another third or fourth go once I had had pointed out to me that I could probably reach the hold I was diving for and missing. Pleased with the session.

S - Bench for 3s this morning up to 95k. TRX and press ups followed by 5k on treadmill. Max hangs this eve. One arm with 6k taken off on both left and right which is about 95%, felt okay.

S - Deadlifts for singles up to 160, feeling pretty good and floating up. Pull ups for 12 and shoulder activation work. Quick bit of cardio.

All in all a good week with plenty of effort but feeling solid all the way through the week. Slept and ate well.

Let's see how much damage I do next week.

[tommytwotone]

STG: 3x new (to me) Font 7as in 2018
LTG: The Oak


M - W: tidying  up loose ends at work, Xmas prep etc, no training
T: off work w/kids all at school / nursery. Big Depot session on new boulder set. First training for about 2 weeks due to infection I got recently. Felt really good, fresh and (for me) strong. Think this set might be a bit friendly, but I did a (V7+) yellow 2nd go, 3 x (V5-7) purples in short order and 5 x (V3-5) reds. Out for Xmas drinks with mates in the evening.
F: escaped without a hangover!
S: Xmas stuff
S: Other half took the kids out to meet friends - was going to do a fingerboard session but cleaning house top-to-bottom took ages.

[lagerstarfish]

STG: remember where I hid my wife's Christmas presents

MTG: The Oak

LTG: laps on The Oak whilst chatting about the relative merits of alternative sequences

not really done any exercise this week

done quite well at avoiding the cake and chocolate that has filled the workplace

[Duma]

LTG: The Oak

MTG: The Oak

LTG: laps on The Oak whilst chatting about the relative merits of alternative sequences

 

[nai]

Mon - Went to Remergence which was dry but could barely do a move on Blind Ali and trying to pull on right leg convinced me that it's not a problem to try until my knee is healed.
Nearly headed home but went to look at Mermaid, that wasn't dry but the arete was. Spent 45 minutes doing various eliminates which I really enjoyed.
 
T - nowt

Wed -
Crag F - hour on the Wave, tried 10 problems, only managed two but had lost of fun and felt like a good workout.
2x10mins LI AeroCap, 1x5mins before running out of steam
Core

Th - somehow someone managed to drive a steamroller into my bedroom overnight without waking me

Fri - F2 & B3 repeaters. still feeling it from Wed
careful reintroduction to TRX
Core

S nowt

S - managed to sneak in repeaters, for and press ups before travelling to Scotland.

[lagerstarfish]

LTG: The Oak

MTG: The Oak

LTG: laps on The Oak whilst chatting about the relative merits of alternative sequences

 

solidarity 

[jwills]

Solid week after a rest week last week. Easing into this microcycle with a relatively low amount of volume

M: Rest

Tu: Fingerboard retest on the small campus rung. +45 lbs. New PR. Finished with some aero cap.

W: Rest

Th: Rest

Fr: Climbing on the home moonboard. Warmed up on some new benchmark problems. Did a number of repeats on near max problems. Ended up sending a mini-project 2 Hours of Purity Ring. Felt great. Pretty high volume workout. Felt pretty tired after.

Sa: Still pretty tired after the previous day's workout. Went to the gym for a light chest/shoulders. Finished with a core workout.

Su: First aero pow workout of this season. Felt so hard. Can't tell if my problems are too hard. We'll see w/ time. May just be a little tired from the Friday workout.

Overall felt pretty strong this week. Happy to see I've been ticking some projects. Over the next 2 weeks the volume continues to increase so we'll see how I get on with that...

[tomtom]

Great to hear you've been signed off Cheque Some great one legged action there Coops. Oak with one leg?? Gollum - OMG - how do you manage to do all that??

STG: Make it through Christmas
MTG: :D :D :D Nice one 3T & Lagers

Work and travel this week...

M: Tried some diamond push ups. Man are they hard! Did a few going from knees not toes...
Tu: Onofficial works do. Good fun. As I wasnt drinking I departed about 10pm when it started to get messy for everyone else..
We: Remergence session. Just dry enough and decent connies. GOOD session on BlindusDatus....

I did the start moves!
I did the start moves 4 times in a row!

I hate the start moves but getting some reliability on this was quite a breakthrough for me - despite being able to do most of the rest of it (I can't quite latch the jug at the top of the lip - but can do the rest). Excellent. Left feeling destroyed.

Th:
Fri:
Sa: Roaches. I managed to find some dry rock (which was an achievement) with 4th cloud. never been there before. Got scared on Trust and backed off - spent ages working Hard Arete. It is indeed a hard arete. Worked out what I had to do and was then too knackered. Not my style (slaps and compression) but great value. No skin.

Su: Rain.

[highrepute]

Gollum - some serious volume there! What's the logic behind it? Do you have a large base of training behind you and you've built up to tolerate that amount of work?

TomTom - as in you can do all the moves to the slots on blind date? Sounds like should be a goer.

Another good week. Managed my weekly goal by Tuesday. But then forgot this by the end of the week and got frustrated that I didn't manage to get out at the weekend. Short break for xmas now then hopefully have a few more chances to get out.

ST *climb once a week *Do pullups"   
MT Put all possible effort into the project   
LT 8c, 8B   

M - another day off work couple hours to get out. Back to Voyager but it was wet. I abbed down it just to have a look at the top holds which I hadn't got to on the previous session. Learnt very little except holds look smaller from a rope - the top seems alright. Over to remergence. After a bit of struggling managed to work out a sequence that avoided the reach to the sloper on Blind Date. Pull on with hands swapped LH on lip crimp, RH up to 2-finger crimp on pebble, LF onto edge under roof, LH to sloper, LH to slot, RH to slot. Apart from pulling on the pebble (which is desperate) this felt very comfortable for me. With the LF on the edge under the roof I was really sitting on that foot for the moves to the slots. Good to tick something that's really shut me down in the past.   After hating remergence for so long actually excited about potentially returning here now.
T - Board session with Toby. Felt good again. Made a new problem with training for the moves on Voyager in mind.   
T - Works - pottering                     

[shark]

Thanks Mike

11.4-5 Average 158.9 (no change on last week)

M. Tor. Cold. Warmed up and did the kick move of Ben’s first go. Tried from start but fell off when releasing kneebar as core went. Joined Nick on In Brine and had one working go. Just about did all the moves in isolation. Small holds. Tried to top rope Sardine to finish but powered out oncrux

T. Fingerboard. Masonic / strict half crimp max hangs and pinches. Progress. Seem to be getting hang of it….Might add weight next time
W. Foundry campus session then an hour on wave on level 2s. Bit of autobelay and 2x3 french pull-ups to finish

T.

F Tor again. Claggy and grim. Warmish to start with then got cold. Most routes and problems wet. Warmed up and almost did the did kick move twice on Bens. Tried from start twice but core failed swivelling to kneebar. Joined Nick on In Brine again for something to do and had one working go. Was worse on it than Monday. Good to be out even in this weather but dogshit session performance-wise

S.

S. FB warm up. Few goes on two new Oak moves. Did them both for first time. Stopped strong. Tried Intermediate Anderson hangs for first time. Made a hash of it over estimating resistance needed and didn’t complete most sets. Wiped out at end of it so skipped doing planned weights session and had a nap instead.

Inspired by discussion on last weeks Power Club I’m going to abide by a set of rules next year and I am sure I can rely on nai to come down on me like a ton of bricks if I transgress:

1.   Take at least 3 complete rests of 7-10 days during the year and every 3-4 weeks have an easier (non-training) week 

2.   Minimum of 2 deadhang sessions a week except on planned easy weeks, rest weeks and trips 

3.   Only commit to routes and problems that I genuinely think I can do within 4 sessions in a season (Oak excepted). 2 extra bonus days allowable if close on the send/redpoint

4.   If I haven’t got past the horn on the Oak from the ground within 5 sessions then sack it off for the season

Seem to have a model on how to approach my climbing and training next year. Signed up for a trip to Albarracin at the beginning of Feb.

[Murph]

Good work guys. Lots of great stuff here. Coops - pull ups +60 and one arm +4 

Gollum - that’s a heck of a lot of work. You the guy who is on the lattice training plan? What’s the actual goal?

Highrepute / TT - sounds like reemergence is the place to be. Does it stay dry in the rain?

My week - 3x shoulder rehab. 2x boulder sessions at the wall and 1x lap of trackside. No fingerboard.

Treading water for a while before the January trainathon - can’t wait.

[tomtom]

Murph - remergence is a bit sheltered so sometimes dodges rain - and dries fast. Gets the sun though so you have to pick your moments.

Highrepute - yeah feeling good for Bd this season. Was there again today with Shark and met 205Chris and Toby.. just need to work the move from both slots to they jug. Seems I can’t get the jug without getting my hip out from under which makes if feel less secure to me. Or grab the sloper / seam below jug on lip and udge up... skin was in short supply today though esp after Sunday on Hard Arête. Seen other beta with a RF on the starting handhold as well but don’t think that’s going to work for my shape/inflexibility

[Coops_13]

Some great one legged action there Coops. Oak with one leg??

Yeah it’s basically a campus right?

[Bradders]

Merry Christmas all!

Feeling miles better both physically and mentally (mainly the latter) for a week off (sort of) from both training and trying to climb outside. Will be having a full five days off this week other than perhaps a run or two.

M - nothing

T - lunch gym, few rounds of sub-maximal bench press, TRX Is, Ts, reverse Is & reverse Ts and hamstring curls with some stretching and foam rolling

W - nothing

T - Depot. Flash comp on the purples; got 9 dropped 2, plus one yellow 2nd go. Then worked a yellow (back left roof) I'd not tried before and did it in two halves. Then a quick attempt at aerocap; on the circuit board tried the 7b and 7a and made it about halfway before powering out and realising I needed to dramatically drop the intensity. Finished with four goes on the 6b stepping off after 20 moves with a light pump, rest equal to climbing time.

F/S - nothing

S - Depot. Warmed up, few purples and reds, then flashed a yellow (easy one next to circuit board). Briefly dabbled on a couple of oranges then tried the back left roof yellow a few times from the start and was failing at the moves onto the vertical face. Finished on the 50 with spidermonkey because I just couldn't help myself. Did a handful of my normal warm ups first go plus had one throw at the harder finish variant of my Zoo York replica and actually felt close to sticking the move.

[jamesturnbull97]

Mon.Fingerboard max hangs and weighted pull ups
Wed. Fingerboard max hangs and weighted pull ups
Fri. Fingerboard max hangs and weighted pull ups
Sun. Fingerboard max hangs and weighted pull ups

Ankle is starting to feel a lot better 11 days on, the swelling started to go down and managed to start walking with just one crutch in the past couple of days which is good progress but it still feels very weak and unstable when I try and weight it more. Feeling hopeful I might be able to walk on it by the end of the week but can't see being able to climb properly for a while still, felt like an achievement putting a sock on without considerable pain yesterday let alone a climbing shoe.

[gollum]

Gollum - that’s a heck of a lot of work. You the guy who is on the lattice training plan? What’s the actual goal?

Yes, that's me. My only plan is to boulder at around 8A again. I may achieve it or I may not but I will be giving it a bloody good go. Cheers

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - snatch pulls, Hackey pull x10 x6. EMOM pull ups 6x5, lock off 20"x5.
Tue - rest.
Wed - boxing bag, EMOM pull ups as Monday.
Thu - 10/20 x6x10 on BM small edge, snatch pulls in between sets.
Fri - weights of some sort.
Sat - weights of some sort, probably farmer's and pull ups: 60% (80 kg) 1/1 x5, pull ups x5 in between. Absolutely terrible. Maybe hardest ever. Deadlift 5x5, pull ups in between.
Sun - weights of some sort, probably a complex: bicep curl, press, snatch pull, tricep planks, pull ups x5x10. Brilliant.