What sort of schedule should I be on given they seem to be injured?
This is covered quite nicely in Dave Macs make or break book if you can get hold of a copy.
The pain is in the muscle belly, about 2/5ths along the coloured area in that diagram above.There is less tenderness at the actual tendon / tendon-bone join.This is the opposite of my golfer's elbow where the pain is quite clearly at the tendon-bone join and almost none in the muscle belly.
Quote from: bigironhorse on December 09, 2018, 05:35:44 pmThis is covered quite nicely in Dave Macs make or break book if you can get hold of a copy.It's really not. In fact, tennis elbow and the subtle differences between tendonitis and tendinosos are some of the the book's biggest weaknesses.
I have a hunch that climbers who get tennis elbow are suffering from short, strong, tight forearm flexors and weak, tight and inflamed extensors.
+1. Same here. Not in join - about 5 cm further towards fingers - but at elbow end.
Sounds like the pain might be coming from the Brachioradialis, this originates on bottom part of the Humerus (on outside of bicep) crosses the elbow and attaches down onto the thumb side of the wrist. So not only does it extend the wrist, pronate the wrist/elbow but it also flexes the elbow, which is why you may have felt some pain on the bicep. its probably just tired and weak as is put under a lot of stress in climbing.I've strained this a couple of times. took a step back from the board, fb and campus board then started off with some eccentric pull ups (on rings, so your wrist can move natural way avoiding causing more stress) and eccentric reverse wrist curls. low intensity to begin with then increased the intensity and reduced the reps. After this just did the whole moments, concentric and eccentric as prehab.
Brachioradialis is the muscle, tennis elbow is usually at the point where it is connected. In my view anyway.
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