[measles23]

Hi all

M- nul
T- nul
W- Armed Forces Bouldering League at Bristol Bloc: Happy to come 2nd to a BBC finalist, thanks to flashing some techy volumey slab things which are normally my nemeses.. Alison also climbed well, beating loads of the blokes, so both went home well satisfied.
T- nul
F- nul
S- nul
S- Stoke AW - did the comp circuit from Thursday; scored 252/300 which would have placed 4th.. Again happy with that as done in half the time..

Back to rock soon I hope..

[Coops_13]

...then went to try Jerry's Traverse. This is really hard and did all the moves but no way I'd link.

I genuinely thought you'd path that, fingers too big?

That and an inability to lock...

[Bradders]

National Trust guiys were dismantelling aand sawing up the ladders so that made for an unpeaceful day.

Didn't know they were changing the ladder. Shame it disrupted your day but good to read on the NT website that the new design will keep climbers in mind.

How was the Stone conditions wise, any seepage/drips?

Genuinely would have thought Jerry's Trav and T Crack should be the perfect problems for you Coops! 

[yetix]

also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!

[highrepute]

also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!

I've experienced similar. I found it fairly steady and I'm terrible at campusing but my friend who can do 1-5-8 found it very hard. I wonder if it's less to do with campus ability and more about accuracy when getting fingers into those cracks.

[nai]

Maybe exposes a weakness in shoulders strecthed out wide?

[highrepute]

Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!


Mtg   8b+, 8A+   
Ltg 8c, 8B   

Any in mind Jim?

Keeping my card close to my chest 

Wrote these a while back, maybe need revising. Routes are very long term as sacked them off while I'm time short.

Boulders not picked a specific project yet. Something crimpy obviously. Any suggestions?

[Fiend]

Bleh, too confrontational.

[Wood FT]

Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!


Mtg   8b+, 8A+   
Ltg 8c, 8B   

Any in mind Jim?

Keeping my card close to my chest 

Wrote these a while back, maybe need revising. Routes are very long term as sacked them off while I'm time short.

Boulders not picked a specific project yet. Something crimpy obviously. Any suggestions?

For 8Bs? I may as well suggest the best kind of piano. If you want suggestions for 6cs however, I'm your man.

[sdm]

also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!

I've experienced similar. I found it fairly steady and I'm terrible at campusing but my friend who can do 1-5-8 found it very hard. I wonder if it's less to do with campus ability and more about accuracy when getting fingers into those cracks.

Campus ability isn't necessary for Jerry's, I couldn't do 1-4-6 on big rungs when I did it. I don't think I cut loose on the whole thing.

Thin fingers, reasonable endurance and being good at wide shouldery moves and high feet made it feel quite steady when I had only done 2 at the grade before.

[205Chris]

Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!


Mtg   8b+, 8A+   
Ltg 8c, 8B   

Any in mind Jim?

Keeping my card close to my chest 

Wrote these a while back, maybe need revising. Routes are very long term as sacked them off while I'm time short.

Boulders not picked a specific project yet. Something crimpy obviously. Any suggestions?

I'd have thought Pump up the Powerband or Tsunami - Kudos would be up your street?

If I was in a position to be cashing 8B cheques I'd be looking at Voyager.

[shark]

National Trust guiys were dismantelling aand sawing up the ladders so that made for an unpeaceful day.

Didn't know they were changing the ladder. Shame it disrupted your day but good to read on the NT website that the new design will keep climbers in mind.

How was the Stone conditions wise, any seepage/drips?

You would have thought they’d do it midweek rather than a bluebird Saturday. Pretty much all dry.

[abarro81]

I'd have thought Pump up the Powerband or Tsunami - Kudos would be up your street?

If I was in a position to be cashing 8B cheques I'd be looking at Voyager.

Tsunami-Kudos is 8A.

Ones which spring to mind would be Total Addiction (Roche, but its a link), something at Griffs (various options, but lots involve linkups). PuTPowerband would be good if you find PUTP easy.. but not if you don't.. Doyle's Pill Box travs are crimpy but obvs a bit further away... If you want proper straight-ups it's a lot harder to come up with good ideas than for links!

[Coops_13]

also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!

I've experienced similar. I found it fairly steady and I'm terrible at campusing but my friend who can do 1-5-8 found it very hard. I wonder if it's less to do with campus ability and more about accuracy when getting fingers into those cracks.

Campus ability isn't necessary for Jerry's, I couldn't do 1-4-6 on big rungs when I did it. I don't think I cut loose on the whole thing.

Thin fingers, reasonable endurance and being good at wide shouldery moves and high feet made it feel quite steady when I had only done 2 at the grade before.

I think it's lock-off strength that is required, that gives you enough time to shove your fingers into the crack. That's where I was falling anyway. Along with excuses of lurgy, being fat and all the usuals... 

[highrepute]

also surprised coops! would have thought you'd cruise them both with all the campussing youre doing!

I've experienced similar. I found it fairly steady and I'm terrible at campusing but my friend who can do 1-5-8 found it very hard. I wonder if it's less to do with campus ability and more about accuracy when getting fingers into those cracks.

Campus ability isn't necessary for Jerry's, I couldn't do 1-4-6 on big rungs when I did it. I don't think I cut loose on the whole thing.

Thin fingers, reasonable endurance and being good at wide shouldery moves and high feet made it feel quite steady when I had only done 2 at the grade before.

I think it's lock-off strength that is required, that gives you enough time to shove your fingers into the crack. That's where I was falling anyway. Along with excuses of lurgy, being fat and all the usuals... 

Although I agree there is tendancy to reduce things to one cause when climbing is more complex than that. I can't hold a lock-off and I've climbed it, presumably I just got my fingers in the crack quicker than I fell off. There are multiple ways that you could improve your ability to get your fingers into the crack. Improving lock off might be one, becoming a ninja at latching pockets/slots is another, as sdm pointed out you don't need to campus to climb this problem, if you were a footwork guru you wouldn't need so much lock-off. Training one of the causes may get you success. However, identifying all possible causes of your difficulties and training them all will make you a better climber.

[highrepute]

I'd have thought Pump up the Powerband or Tsunami - Kudos would be up your street?

If I was in a position to be cashing 8B cheques I'd be looking at Voyager.

Tsunami-Kudos is 8A.

Ones which spring to mind would be Total Addiction (Roche, but its a link), something at Griffs (various options, but lots involve linkups). PuTPowerband would be good if you find PUTP easy.. but not if you don't.. Doyle's Pill Box travs are crimpy but obvs a bit further away... If you want proper straight-ups it's a lot harder to come up with good ideas than for links!

If damp linkups are all I've got to go at then I'm taking up cycling.

[abarro81]

You're f*cked then

[Will Hunt]

Right on. Link-ups, especially to access a new grade, are shit.

8B? High Fidelity, Rhythm, Cypher.

[36chambers]

Let me know if you think of anything decent highrepute.

I have also been trying to think of some good, non-traverse, 8A+'s to get psyched for. For crimpy all I've got are Fat Lady at The Bowderstone, Primitive Notion at Kilnsey, and Vanilla Sky at Anstons.

Unfortunately for me, the first is a bit far, the second has nothing decent for the GF, and the third looks a bit rubbish

[Fiend]

Then don't get psyched for 8A+

[36chambers]

Then don't get psyched for 8A+

It originally read "to get stuck into", don't know why I decided to change it.

edit: highrepute, if you're peak based I thought it was common practice to just skip 8A+ and do Keen Roof

[Plattsy]

Cherry Falls or Anchor Management maybe...
Ooo a list...
http://peakbouldering.info/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&min_grade=125&max_grade=125&min_stars=0&area=-1&rock_type=-1&crag=-1&attributes=all&commit=Go

[Will Hunt]

Brownian Motion, Twelve Bore, X-Calibre?

[nai]

Sean's Roof or (apart from being not crimpy and not straight up) Inertia Reel Traverse

[abarro81]

I don't know how Sean's isn't a straight-up (i.e. not a link), though obviously it's steep so not "straight up" in the most literal sense of the word. It's also 8A with a knee (not sure whether highrepute would or wouldn't be tall enough for the knee), but totally ace.