[duncan]

Greetings punters and wads.

STG: strength work (bouldering / fingerboard) 2-3 times a week. Manage aches and pains. Do a Kettle movement drill each time I go to the wall.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this year winter.
LTG: a classic Pembroke E5; 5.13 at 60

M - Bouldering Vauxwall east. Shoulder felt tweaky so easy session. Shoulder strength (reverse flys, inclined rows, front and side planks)
T - Shoulder stretches
W -
T - Shoulder stretches, shoulder strength
F - Shoulder stretches, shoulder strength
S - Shoulder stretches, shoulder strength, hips and knees strength (squats, bridges).
S - Fingerboard. Brief max. hangs. Not very max., mostly getting myself re-acquainted with it after a few weeks off. Hips and knees strength.


Easier week: under the weather with a cold, fed-up with work issues, persistent insomnia, and shoulder tweaky again. 7b+ or even another 7b seems some way off. Have stretched deadline for the MTG.

Plan: shoulder, knee and hip strength/conditioning twice weekly. Gradually build up the fingerboarding and resume bouldering when shoulder allows.

[Will Hunt]

M -
T -
W - Went to the Glen for a lamp sesh. Warmed up for a little bit at home on the fingerboard/pull up bar. Usual warm up of Daz Manson's, the Manson's-Phil's eliminate, and Phil's. Started on Red Baron Roof and spent time trying to get the cut loose to work. Sussed it in the end - it's all about how you hold the crimp. By the end of the session I was having proper attempts at it with mixed success. Best go was sticking the cut loose and throwing the heel up on the right but slipping off as my rh slipped. This is proper progress.
T - some mates were going to the Glen so joined them. Warmed up on some of the easy highballs at the right end. Then showed them the beta on The Green Traverse. I find this really beta intensive, it's got two distinct crux sections back to back which are probably 6C+ and 6B+ and there's a bit of crimpy climbing to do to get into it. Feels as hard as anything I redpointed over the summer so was pleased to repeat it.
F -
S -
S - Simon's Seat with Warbs. Tried a project wall which didn't go. Not sure if I even made progress on it. Nails! Went to look at a host of 7As under the trig point and came away very disappointed Pinna has got a shoddy landing as well as being quite green. The stuff around triptych was similarly green or spoiled by shocking landings. Pulled on a couple of times before sacking it off. Walked past Whaleback and did that. Think that's easier now that the chicken head has gone because the rules have naturally relaxed about what's allowed.
Went down to Dinomania and was disappointed to find the start covered in wet lichen.
The day was saved by the tall slab at dalehead on the way down where we did a collecting of slabs and a 6B thing. For my money, the middle slab on that boulder is harder than Psycho but less scary - still a bit wobbly at the top though!

[Bradders]

First week of a new working pattern (thanks to my employers if you're reading  ), coincided with a fair bit of bad luck/poor decision making.

M - down to Burbage South for half 1ish. Lovely conditions. Did The Sheep quickly which was brilliant, and was just heading up to the edge when the forecast 10% chance of a shower became 100% heavy rain. Utterly soaked. Went to the Leeds Depot. Normal board warm ups then managed one of my three current projects second go - been trying it for about a year off and on so very satisfying although as is often the case it felt easy on the send. Handful of goes each on my two others, some progress made.
T - repeat of my lunchtime circuit of one arm pull ups, weighted pull ups, dips and TRX Is & Ts. Felt good.
W - utterly wasted from two long days at work but got out for a quick run.
T - morning max hangs, 5x 10s +25kg on the BM2K low edges 4f HC. In the afternoon got out to try Phoenix Wall at Panorama Crag. Baking hot in full sun (was wearing shorts and t shirt) and completely failed to exercise any sort of discipline and wait for cooler temps as darkness fell. Best go got three fingers on the top hold but slipped off and then split my LH index fingertip next go 
F - rest
S - short run
S - Earl. Lovely day, cold in a reasonable breeze but fairly humid. Everything disappointingly caked in chalk and tick marks on arrival  normal circuit warm up then onto Lager3. Once again completely failed. Best go made it to the RH move to the penultimate hold but didn't even really try to stick it. Must be eighth session now over three or four seasons. Total mental block I think (not to mention I'm just generally terrible at technical climbing, hence trying to focus on such problems a bit more).

[tomtom]

Thanks Duncan.

M: Curbar. First session there this season... nice - and rock felt good when the sun came out, but was T shirt conditions so not primo. Usual warm ups on trackside boulder. Eased up Trackside first go which felt good (I know I like a soft grade or 10, but this feels like 6B to me...) Decided to spend some SkinCredits (tm) on SideTrack - and technique/body position felt alot better on it than before - but the lower sloper on the arete was just too slimey/squelchy in the sun for it to work. Moved on to Dans Arete (another that has eluded me) and having seen a couple of vids of people using the low footblock managed to do it using that. Which felt 6C+/7A to me... without the footblock the moves feel fecking nails. Anyway, the light, colours and clouds were good so I filmed it.. Then moved on to Great White - and got to where i was last year/if not better - and reached/grabbed/held for a sec or two the sidepull. I know its certainly not over from there but nice to get there at the end of a session...



W: BBG S on the way back from work to home. Not the best forecast, not the best conditions... its always a bit random where I drop off the edge, and ended up near Standup Arete and Fuji Heavy Industries (FHI) etc.. did the arete, but the top was a wet sheet of green... Tried to top a couple of times and just gave up to save the top belly flop/stand up for a drier time... FHI was interesting. the move off the deck hurt my right knee a bit - but I could span between both aretes - so rather an use the next ot your foot sidepull to keep you in before heading up to the good holds above I could monkey my LH up the arete with my RH on the right arete - get half standing and boink up to the holds. Cheating? Discuss
Then headed over to the Rib - and was shit.

Fr: Mother in law came over - me and MrsTT went to the cinema for the first time in probably a year in the afternoon - and then went out for dinner in the evening. Baby was still up when we came back at 11 :D

Sa: Baby slept to 8:30.... Went out - looked like a cracking day in Manchester, so went to Widdop. It was clearing clag, decent wind - but lots of dampness around. Remarkably despite stone walls looking sketchy and wet roads, much of the boulders were dry. Apart from the tops that were green slime death slabs. Did splashdown, moved on to Fight on the Black  - a semi nemesis. Took ages to figure out what I did before - and by then had moved past the pain threshold in my left pebble hooking finger and right tips. It was really not great conditions - and to the team that came up after me - the huuge tickmark on FOTB wasnt me - I tried to clean it! Then got really close to the 7A Hurricane on the otehr side of the block until I lost a load of skin and sacked it off...


(warning contains profanity and moderate gore)

[Coops_13]

M: Arch. Rushed warm-up and twinged finger, felt a bit better after more warming up so tried repeater session. Got ludicrously pumped and knackered so gave up as didn't want to risk finger. Finished with a load of ring and bar work including Sean McColl's 5-5-5 (punter) challenge.

T: Dawn Wall

W: Arch. Fingers still not feeling fighting fit so avoided the fingerboard today. Warmed up on problems then did a fair bit of campusing. 1-4-7 big rungs R leading, close with L. 1-4-6 middle rungs. Then did 1-4-6 on small rungs for the first time ever (in between BM1K bottom outside crimps and BM2K bottom outside crimps). Pretty psyched by that. Then went to a relaitvely new set and flashed 3 V5ish problems before trying some harder stuff. Ended by getting a new muscle-ups PB (on bar) of 12 :D

T:

F:

S: Cratcliffe. Many attempts on T Crack 7B, fell many times from the top, slightly higher than in March. Still on the top pocket with heel up. Retro-flashed Razor Roof 6C then went to try Jerry's Traverse. This is really hard and did all the moves but no way I'd link.

S: Stoney Middleton. Took mates to see Tom's Roof and had a play, feeling weak. Went onto Minus Ten and did the Middle Break Traverse many times, getting pumped. Added some extensions at start and end to make some nice link ups.

Been pretty hit with cold and flu-y symptoms which won't have helped my climbing, along with putting on a couple of kgs so poor climbing weekend was to be expected.

[Duma]

T: Dawn Wall

Just nipped in for a repeat on your rest day...

[yetix]

M:Rest
T:Max hangs
W:BUK 55, quality session. Repeated most harder things I'd done before, felt psyched and spent too long on the board as a result.
T:Rest
F:Probably over did it on Wednesday as felt pretty fatigued. BUK 55 though, managed to tick a sitter I'd worked at last time I was investing time on the board. Did a little campussing on the smalls (1-4-7 right side, not even close on the left) felt boxed!
S:Rest
S:Depot, still fairly fatigued. Managed to tick most of the new purples at the depot before doing some longer boulders on the 30 board. Gym session in the evening, bench press, shoulder press and lat pull down

Groins not hurting as much anymore, have to avoid quite a few types of moves but seem to be getting by okay. Will probably try and shorten the board session on Wednesday this week so it doesn't kill me off for the rest of the week! Psych can be dangerous!

[nai]

M - Repeaters, gymnastics, core

T 3x10 mins LI AeroCap, legs

W saw physio

Th rest

Fr Repeaters, half a TRX workout, legs, core

S - HI AeroCap. pumped after 4 reps, realised I hadn't done this for 5 weeks. Doubled rest time and just scraped through 10 reps

S - rested intending to climb Monday but late afternoon, without doing anything, I suddenly couldn't use my right arm unless it was locked into the side of my body. Even opening the fridge door hurts it and I can't actually raise it over my head without serious discomfort.

[Fiend]

Went out - looked like a cracking day in Manchester, so went to Widdop. It was clearing clag, decent wind - but lots of dampness around. Remarkably despite stone walls looking sketchy and wet roads, much of the boulders were dry. Apart from the tops that were green slime death slabs. Did splashdown, moved on to Fight on the Black  - a semi nemesis. Took ages to figure out what I did before - and by then had moved past the pain threshold in my left pebble hooking finger and right tips. It was really not great conditions - and to the team that came up after me - the huuge tickmark on FOTB wasnt me - I tried to clean it! Then got really close to the 7A Hurricane on the otehr side of the block until I lost a load of skin and sacked it off...

Hah! I should have kept in touch on FB. Drove for for 3 hours in glorious warm sunshine. Decided plan A of Hawkstones was going to be too warm, so changed plan to Clatteringstones. Similar to you I popped out of Burnley into horizontal
clag and arctic death wind. Could barely open the car door at the parking. Drove past Widdop, saw there were people there, thought "fuck queuing up with a load of lanky anorexic Depot wankers under FOB" and continued around to Hawkstones. Walked in. Touched the rock. The most dismaying pile of decaying scrittle I've ever seen. I'd rather highball at Cilan Head. Walked out again. Plan C went to Scout which was okay condition (I think the weirdness this weekend was a cold fresh Easterly BUT unusually high humidity for an Easterly) but the initial easy circuit was a bit shit. Felt ropey and didn't do much. So I should have gone to Widdop anyway

[Coops_13]

T: Dawn Wall

Just nipped in for a repeat on your rest day...

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries Week Thirteen

STG- Leading low 6s/ HVS and carrying normal loads to crags by end of Sept 2019.

M- Rest. Battered from using the leg machines the previous day.

T- Swimming. First time since the day before my accident. This was a bit of a wake-up call as it was also the first time I've felt disabled for months. I've never been great at breaststroke but my lack of leg strength and dreadful hip flexibility meant I felt like I was getting no propulsion from my legs whatsoever- using a float for my arms confirmed this. It's a good job that this swimming pool is all shallow end (it's part of a school) so I could put my feet on the bottom whenever and an even better job that my girlfriend dissuaded me from trying to swim in the sea at the end of July.

W- Gym. 30 minutes on the bike as usual, up one level as usual.

T- Rest.

F- Kendal. Only there for one day which didn't coincide with Dawn Wall or Free Solo (how have I managed not to see these films yet?!) but did see as many other climbing films as possible, of which I enjoyed Statement of Youth and Blood Moon the most.   

S- Foundry Autobelays. Did my 6b+ project. Fucking buzzing. 

S- Gym in the morning. My leg press limit with my left leg is up to 18kg from last week's 11  . Benchmarked my right leg (just under 30kg) and both legs (just under 50- 10kg less than I weigh) bests too. When I do it with my left leg I have to shout and grunt and all the guys on the other machines look at me   

I then tried the "Hip adductor" machines. Both are hard (I can do a puny 25kg on each) but while I've no idea what the use of the one where you squeeze inwards is, the one where you push outwards seems highly suited to my weaknesses. After that I tried the weird stair-treadmill thing, which is definitely useful for me (going up stairs has been a big weakness ever since I stopped using a crutch) and I think I'll try using it instead of the exercise bike this week- it replicates the out-of-breathness I get on walk-ins. 

[highrepute]

Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!

Stg
*climb once a week
*Do pullups
Mtg   8b+, 8A+   
Ltg 8c, 8B   
M- rest   
T- Little Pig 7c at 10pm. pushing the limits of how late I can be out. tired the following day. not the most inspiring line but not bad, some nice movements. wasn't sure if it would go at first, frustratingly warm for 10pm but came together with a little change of beta.   
W - rest   
T - Board - sent another of the projects, made another project that turned out to be too easy when I did it first go. good pull-ups at the end, slow progress but persistence is key!   
F S S rest rest rest

good week again. 7c on the grit and a project on the board. shame to not get out at the weekend but looked a bit warm anyway and worth it to hang out with friends and family

[cheque]

T- Rest.

I forgot to put that when I had a blood test in the early evening (hopefully the last one of this whole episode) I got the nurse to measure me as I knew I was now shorter. I'm 171cm tall, 7 centimetres less than before! 

[tomtom]

Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!

Effort. I find it useful to add some (training) structure to my normally structureless toddler supporting life

[tommytwotone]

STG: keep training, no booze during the week
LTG: WTF now?


Another quick update for me, disjointed week due to broken down cars, p\rtner's 40th, non-work commitments and general 5am start tiredness meaning I worked from home 3 days out of 5, and therefore didn't get to the gym.


Did a "Big Depot" session (as opposed to a big Depot session) on Weds eve. 5 x autobelay routes to warm up, then punter campus routine, then a bit of bouldering to finish. Still couldn't stick the anti-style V5 I tried the week previous, but did close out an awkward knacky V4 slab problem.


Looking like I'll be working from home a fair bit in the future. Mission this week is to get my fingerboard up for some lunchtime repeater sessions.

[Fiend]

Drove past Widdop, saw there were people there, thought "fuck queuing up with a load of lanky anorexic Depot wankers under FOB" and continued around to Hawkstones.

Edit: This is just referring to generic boulderers / tickers / baggers etc, young men especially, and not referring to anyone in particular. Just in case it was misinterpreted.

[user deactivated]

Drove past Widdop, saw there were people there, thought "fuck queuing up with a load of lanky anorexic Depot wankers under FOB" and continued around to Hawkstones.

Edit: This is just referring to generic boulderers / tickers / baggers etc, young men especially, and not referring to anyone in particular. Just in case it was misinterpreted.

You forgot to mention the disturbing ‘Hipster’ boulderer. Skinny cords, likes beige offset by day glow pad and bucket, ecologically and emotionally sound, wears toe down orange and black  scarpa boots. Wears a styled beard and moustache and is sponsored by Apple.

[shark]

Then moved on to Great White - and got to where i was last year/if not better - and reached/grabbed/held for a sec or two the sidepull. I know its certainly not over from there but nice to get there at the end of a session...

I might consider promoting you to being a first tier friend if you tick that

[shark]

S- Foundry Autobelays. Did my 6b+ project. Fucking buzzing. 

Nice one shorty! Let me know if you want a lift to Peak area meet on weds

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - bicep curl and press complex; high pulls, cleans and snatch pulls complex; tricep planks and abs complex, back to back x8.
Tue - rest.
Wed - brilliant session. Press, high pulls, cleans (30, 40, 50 kg) 5x5. Pull ups in between sets. Final 40" lock off.
Thu - snatch, cleans, pull ups 5x5. Tricep planks x5, abs x25, lock offs 30" x5.
Fri - donated blood. Rested and ate. A lot.
Sat - high pulls, press, cleans, pull ups 5x10. Farmer's walk various minutes.
Sun - bicep curl 10x5; tricep planks 10x5; rdl, bentover row 10x2x3; Hackey pull 20x2.

[Wood FT]

Decided to try this out. Always enjoy reading it and might make be a better climber!


Mtg   8b+, 8A+   
Ltg 8c, 8B   

Any in mind Jim?

[shark]

11.3-4 average 158.0 up 1.0lb on last week

M. PM Foundry campus. Did 1-4-7 with a smear on back wall on large rungs on Right Arm and 1-4 and touch 6 on medium rungs on both arms

T. Froggat with Paul Reeve. 8 degrees and sunny. Re-opened account on Hot Toddy 7A+. Got close a few times to getting the sloper.

W.

T. Back again to Hot Toddy this time with NickC. Warmer but cloudier. Nick got it and I didn’t though I did apply myself and tried bloody hard. Could do with some success

F. Up to Kendal with Keith and Steve. Stopped at Crig Y Longridge. Uninspiring greasy conditions. Decided to save myself and went back to car. Eve Watched Statement of Youth which was good then drank

S. Glorious day. Keith insisted on going to the Bowderstone and ended up taking nearly 2 hours as there was roadworks. National Trust guiys were dismantelling aand sawing up the ladders so that made for an unpeaceful day. Did the V3 warm up traverse and The Rib which is given 6B on UKC.  :oDesperate. A regular (Lee) showed us the beta on Picnic Sarcastic 7A+ which was the right grade. Keith got it. I managed to get to the last two handholds twice then fluffed it organising my feet/heel for the last pop. Failed yet again.    Eve watched Free Solo which was mindblowing

S. Another beautiful. This time up to Carrock Fell using the motorway. Did a bunch of stuff the highlight being the well positioned prow of Sing a Rainbow 7A which actually felt no harder than The Rib and then onsighted I Can, I Can't 6C next to it to finish.

Felt like a loser most of the week so good to end it on a high. Also done a fair bit of thinking about training and going to start doing more but shorter fingerboard sessions aiming for about 3x per week. Also going to do one indoor Power Session and one indoor Strength session each week too. Outside I'm going to aim to get at least one new-to-me 7 each week.     

[36chambers]

...then went to try Jerry's Traverse. This is really hard and did all the moves but no way I'd link.

I genuinely thought you'd path that, fingers too big?

[spidermonkey09]

M- rest

T- rest.

W- sacked off work and went to Malham to try and finish off Predator. 2 failed redpoints at the crux later I was resigned to coming back in the spring when John told me to have another go. Half an hour later in the fading light I absolutely pathed it in a state of disbelief. I wasn't even pumped. The whole thing felt about 7a. Absolute madness, couldn't believe I was clipping the chains. Can only presume the state of relaxation I was in made the difference. It's all in the mind, this climbing thing. Made up to finish it off this year and have a stress free few months.

T- rest!

F- flight to Barcelona. Picked up by friend in van and opted for Siurana. Pissed it down most of the drive there.

S- Arboli, El Falco. Great crag, did 5 routes between 6c and 7b. Good onsighting day inbetween showers.

S- Siuranella. A few low 7s and Lua 7c, which I should have onsighted but neglected to read the guide to see which way it went. Punter.

Here until next Sunday which will be great. Suits the crimpy British climber does Siurana!

[Wood FT]

M- rest

T- rest.

W- sacked off work and went to Malham to try and finish off Predator. 2 failed redpoints at the crux later I was resigned to coming back in the spring when John told me to have another go. Half an hour later in the fading light I absolutely pathed it in a state of disbelief. I wasn't even pumped. The whole thing felt about 7a. Absolute madness, couldn't believe I was clipping the chains. Can only presume the state of relaxation I was in made the difference. It's all in the mind, this climbing thing. Made up to finish it off this year and have a stress free few months.

Here until next Sunday which will be great. Suits the crimpy British climber does Siurana!

  Last chance saloon, well done!

For onsighting I recommend Avatar, an amazing journey of a 7c with a bit of everything (crag: Salt de la reina mora) and Hot Knife at Negoicee. I onsighted neither but had a bloody great time trying.