[TobyD]

Rehab Diaries Week Eleven

Isn't it peculiarly irritating how often helicopters seem to pop up if you have uncomfortable memories of them.

However, a brief plug: https://www.yorkshireairambulance.org.uk
Sell Christmas cards and stuff to raise funds, if anyone is in the market for some.

[shark]

Anyway, like making a shit round of teas at work, I won’t get asked to belay again

I might find myself in a similar situation after this..

[measles23]

Thanks for the video Simon - it does actually look like a really cool route, I can see why it’s captivated you..

[shark]

Thanks for the video Simon - it does actually look like a really cool route, I can see why it’s captivated you..

The moves are amazing

[Yossarian]

Weight: 88ish kg

STG: 147, 7ANYTHING, weight down to 85kg
MTG: 7anything
LTG: 8something

M: Felt well-rested and (relatively) strong after lighter end to previous week. Markedly better on my various 45 board problems, and then touched 146 on the campus board - YAY! I think the main reason I didn’t hang it was surprise / shock. Couldn’t repeat it, but nice to know that I should get it next time.
T: Yoga / stretching. Fairly close to flat palms on floor, and side splits improving too.
W: Another good board session. Good progress on something I initially thought was going to be way too hard. Also, need to start doing some other people’s problems I think...
T: Max hangs and weighted pull-ups. Up to +32kg for both.
F: Yoga / stretching
S: New set of shorter problems at the wall, so started trying to flash stuff and then got imbroiled in some frustrating harder things. Didn’t realise how tired I was till I got home.
S: Felt a bit fucked. Ate too much of wife’s birthday cake.

Great to get tangible sense of improvement on the campus board. Generally feeling pretty knackered though, so maybe time for a lighter few days.

[Will Hunt]

Thanks for the video Simon - it does actually look like a really cool route, I can see why it’s captivated you..

The moves are amazing

Is that move that Guy so callously drags you off the infamous "throw to Horn"? That's the crux, yeah?

[shark]

Yes, that’s the throw for the horn which is the single hardest move for me and shorties.

The redpoint crux is arguably in the middle of the top traverse holding a Gaston and coming into a side pull which I’ve got past once as well.

[Will Hunt]

Yes, that’s the throw for the horn which is the single hardest move for me and shorties.

The redpoint crux is arguably in the middle of the top traverse holding a Gaston and coming into a side pull which I’ve got past once as well.

Interesting. I've seen footage of the Oak before but never from a camera angle that shows just how short and bouldery it is. If it helps with your self belief, the fact that you've done it 2nd bolt to top, with such a low 2nd bolt is a good proof of concept that you definitely can do it.

I'm going to go as far as to speculate that if you were to do it, and then come back a few weeks later in decent connies and have another go at repeating it without all the pressure and the expectation to fail, you would do it straight off.

Come on, Shark! When you come back from Malham tomorrow you are going to have ticked The Oak!

[spidermonkey09]

The moves are amazing

It does look really good, although brick hard clearly. Incidentally you're climbing way quicker on that bottom wall than in previous efforts. Got to be good.

[tommytwotone]

That's the crux, yeah?

That and (from reading reports of this season's attempts), stopping his feet from slipping off.


#uklimestoneproblems

[SA Chris]

#naesloppyploppin'

[tommytwotone]

I'm just amazed that with the contributors to this thread (I'm looking at you Chris, Tom...) nobody's made any lowbrow jokes regarding
Shark getting pulled off by Guy.

First I've heard of someone getting tugged off before getting the horn.

[I'll get me coat]

[SA Chris]

Too easy, like shooting Sharks in a barrel.

[Bradders]

I made the best gains of my life doing a really simple protocol as ably described by Monkey Boy in the below video.

More recently I've been mixing it up by doing weighted repeaters in varying hold types and found these beneficial. I think I'd probably agree with you that at this stage, your best bet to squeeze out a tiny little bit extra is to do power endurance as that recruits quicker than strength.

Thanks, that looks like the ticket! Might have to use the lattice rung at home and a campus rung at the wall to ensure some sort of consistency. What depth is the bottom outside on the 1000?

How long did you do it for? Or did you periodically retest yourself and add more weight to suit?

I actually just used the bottom edge on the Beastmaker 2000 as that was all I had. Also, I had it mounted on a pull up bar which meant it had a definite slight tilt downwards. Not by much but noticeable when hanging.

I started in March 2017 building up a really big base of fingerboarding, just doing regular (weekly) sessions of repeaters, always in a four finger half crimp, at sub-maximal loads; generally 5 seconds on 5 off for 6 reps. I find this really helps improve my base levels and is great for preventing tweaks which I used to get all the time.

Then in June I did my first 1r max test and managed 12-13s or so at 14kg added. I kept doing repeaters for a few weeks, and then in August started back on the max hangs, doing one or usually two sessions a week, just 5 sets of 10s hangs at 14kg to start with, and by mid-October 2017 had increased up to being steady for 10 seconds at 21kg added.

I'm very aware that those numbers pale into insignificance when compared to others on these threads. Finger strength has always been a real weakness for me though and through November - December I managed things like Tourniquet, Queen Kong Sit, Jason's Roof and Sideliner. Can't say that was definitely a result of the fingerboard as none of those are massively dependent on finger strength, plus I did a really high volume of work (for me) on the TRX and board as well as I say, but I like to think it made a difference.

[spidermonkey09]

I actually just used the bottom edge on the Beastmaker 2000...

Then in June I did my first 1r max test and managed 12-13s or so at 14kg added. I kept doing repeaters for a few weeks, and then in August started back on the max hangs, doing one or usually two sessions a week, just 5 sets of 10s hangs at 14kg to start with, and by mid-October 2017 had increased up to being steady for 10 seconds at 21kg added.

I'm very aware that those numbers pale into insignificance when compared to others on these threads. Finger strength has always been a real weakness for me though and through November - December I managed things like Tourniquet, Queen Kong Sit, Jason's Roof and Sideliner. Can't say that was definitely a result of the fingerboard as none of those are massively dependent on finger strength, plus I did a really high volume of work (for me) on the TRX and board as well as I say, but I like to think it made a difference.

Thanks for that, really interesting. I may be a weak route climber but those numbers look pretty good to me. I attempted to do a set of repeaters on that edge with 10kg added last week and got totally spanked, probably managed about one rep total!

Will spend a session working out where to start when I get back from Spain in a few weeks and get stuck in. If it helps me get up an 8A over the winter then all the better, but should give a pretty good base for the routes next spring with luck.

[Fiend]

I actually just used the bottom edge on the Beastmaker 2000 as that was all I had. Also, I had it mounted on a pull up bar which meant it had a definite slight tilt downwards. Not by much but noticeable when hanging.

Which edge is that? The 10mms  on the outside?

[Murph]

There Beastmaker fingerboard holds go down to c14mm smallest. Both 1k and 2k, and my measurer says the smalls on the 1k are smaller than on 2k. It’s why I never put my 2k up.

Great thread this.

10 seconds at 21kg added.
....
I managed things like Tourniquet, Queen Kong Sit, Jason's Roof and Sideliner.

Thanks for posting this Bradders. Amazing things to tick. It’s a reminder that I really need to work on my weaknesses!!!

[Bradders]

Thanks for that, really interesting. I may be a weak route climber but those numbers look pretty good to me. I attempted to do a set of repeaters on that edge with 10kg added last week and got totally spanked, probably managed about one rep total!

Will spend a session working out where to start when I get back from Spain in a few weeks and get stuck in. If it helps me get up an 8A over the winter then all the better, but should give a pretty good base for the routes next spring with luck.

Start slow and build up gradually I reckon. Best of luck with it, glad someone else finds this stuff interesting 

Which edge is that? The 10mms  on the outside?

The smaller of the two edges you can get four fingers on.

Thanks for posting this Bradders. Amazing things to tick. It’s a reminder that I really need to work on my weaknesses!!!

Ha cheers. I can't touch anything on Peak Lime.

[Murph]

Bradders, I re-read your post and think I had misunderstood. The smalls on the 2k are bottom but the small(er?) smalls on the 1k are higher up. My amazement was a case of mistaken fingerboards.

So I had been thinking 8A+ at +21kgs was some next level Dave Graham / Harry Potter shit

But half crimp +21 on those little holds is pretty damn strong I reckon. It’s certainly stronger than me. Sure I hang +40 on those holds when I’m going well but I don’t do it in half crimp and couldn’t dream of it. On this forum I’m pretty certain I am one of the strongest (ie crappest) climbers for my grade (7B with one exception) but sounds like you are lots stronger than me certainly in half crimp.

When I next allow myself to get on the fingerboard I’ll turn up here with some more comparable numbers. Of course, I think you said before that you aren’t so hot with drag because of pinkie length. Maybe this drag handicap is a crimp advantage 

[AMorris]

There Beastmaker fingerboard holds go down to c14mm smallest. Both 1k and 2k, and my measurer says the smalls on the 1k are smaller than on 2k. It’s why I never put my 2k up.

Never knew this, cheers! How much smaller are they?

[Bradders]

Aha fair enough, I can unquestionably confirm that I am not Dave Graham

I've no idea really, it'd be great to see numbers from other people to compare.

I actually did a 5 set session just yesterday (spoiler alert for next week's PC) and am now steady completing every rep in half crimp at +25kg on those holds. I've not done them for a while, just been focusing on repeaters, but that feels pretty close to my max. Not tried going any higher.

All that said, how you can hold them with an extra 40kg hanging off you, regardless of grip type, is mind boggling to me!

[yetix]

I believe 2k has 14mm edges and the 1k has 12mm edges

[Murph]

When I measured it a while back it was with a fabric measure and it’s difficult to measure exactly because of where the back rounds up and the lip rounds down etc. There wasn’t so much as a mm difference when I measured mine and I reckoned the 1k was eversoslightly smaller than the 2k. I was measuring to see whether there was actually any point in taking down the 1k and remounting a 2k. For the purpose of that test, no there wasn’t.

Bradders - thanks for the sneak peek at next week’s entry

[tomtom]

Size of hold interests me for this - as given the tip of my fingers (where bone comes to press on flesh and onto hold) is only about 10mm across (depth) then the difference between hanging a 15 to 10 to 6mm edge is about pain endurance and maybe building up some tougher cartridge around the tip... I guess what I’m saying is that the mechanics of the bones, muscles and tendons means you’re not actually having to pull anything any harder with much smaller holds - it just hurts your tips more.

Imagine your finger tips are sky hooks - putting them on a 2, 5, or 10mm edge doesn’t actually alter how much force is being pulled through the hook (your hands/fingers). That’s probably a really crap analogy :D

Well that’s my musings about it...

[spidermonkey09]

To be honest, I don't really like the bottom outside on the 2000, its just slightly too small for comfortable hanging. Bottom outside on the 1000 is perfect. I think for the vast majority of people a 2000 is overkill, myself included, but that didn't stop me  getting one! The 1000 has better edges but the 2000 has better slopers. I'm just too weak to hang them.

Maybe the perfect combination is a 2000 and a campus rung, although as Bradders has demonstrated sticking with the bottom outside on the 2000 should get results!