I wouldn’t fancy full crimp max hangs myself. Would rather bone up on the board if needed to improve full crimp.
Or the 8 or 10mm micros might be ok. Certainly preferable to hanging a load of weight off you and boning.
Have personally always found half crimp and open hand the best means of training contact strength on things like a beast maker/small campus rung etc. Having some well crafted very thin holds allows you to train full crimp in a controlled fashion.
Strengthening that position in a controlled manner can only be good for it, rather than only unleashing it in extremis on a cold wet crag.
are there some problems where you have to crimp, is this something that really comes in at the higher grades?
Crimping allows you to move further up past the hold - as the focus of the pressure is at the very back of the hold rather than towards the lip.
Good thread this. Very useful. Personally I never train full crimp or even half crimp. Everything on the fingerboard is open. I try to do some of the easier hangs half crimp but am not very disciplined about it. Then when I’m outside I open hand everything still. Pretty much never crimp. Even the crimp on my project I open hand.
Bransby’s a freak.
Alright Bradders lets give this a go. I’m going to try to link to a couple of pictures of two climbers on the same hold on a Peak Lime mega classic 7C+. One is holding the crimp in a full crimp, the other is holding it “open”. https://imgur.com/gallery/iTQFRa2
I've noticed a few natural draggers, and FWIW, they all seem to have short and chisel-like fingers. I on the other hand am a classic ectomorph, with long skinny fingers. I think there's probably some biomechanical basis for favouring one or the other
Try to actively hang the hold.
To be honest I'm a little more interested in how you hold your fingers whilst on a fingerboard, but that's still a really interesting comparison. The reason I'm specifically interested in the fingerboard position is that when I use a fully open grip (I.e. the classic drag), on either of the two rungs on the BM2k, I literally cannot get my pinky anywhere near the hold.
The reason I'm specifically interested in the fingerboard position is that when I use a fully open grip (I.e. the classic drag), on either of the two rungs on the BM2k, I literally cannot get my pinky anywhere near the hold. Quote from: Danny on October 25, 2018, 07:34:24 pmI've noticed a few natural draggers, and FWIW, they all seem to have short and chisel-like fingers. I on the other hand am a classic ectomorph, with long skinny fingers. I think there's probably some biomechanical basis for favouring one or the otherI think this is a really important point; I likewise have very long skinny fingers and am therefore seemingly predisposed to the crimp or half crimp, almost more as a way of getting all four fingers on to the hold than as a stronger grip.If all of your fingers are roughly equal lengths and you can easily get your pinky on in a drag then more power too you.
Pictures of the hangs and what DM calls them - "four fingers open", "half crimp" and "full open hand or three finger drag as some people call it". I usually use four fingers open and having just checked, it looks much like the picture here. And according to DM, yeah you shouldn't be getting your pinky involved in a fully open hang. But two of the hangs he demonstrates have "open" in the name.https://imgur.com/gallery/TFyOiql
In the last few years, I've had some ongoing tweaks in both ring fingers, and my current theory is that it's because when I do crimp, the little finger still tends to drop or not be involved, and as a result the ring finger skews sideways slightly and bad things happen in the joint.
I have found that my preferred grip style has changed dramatically over the years. When I first started I was really weak open handed and dragging pockets. I was forced to crimp everything. However, this resulted in getting injuries from crimping and from being open handed and dragging pockets. Back then there seemed to be a lot of information about training open handed and then also the back two (Beastmaker). Therefore, I trained this loads which really helped me stop getting injured (particularly strengthening the back 2) and I started dragging almost everything!
Hmmm... A front lever on the BM 45 slopers?
what to call this though?https://www.instagram.com/p/BpkTvc6HBMX/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
Quote from: finbarrr on October 31, 2018, 12:08:03 pmwhat to call this though?https://www.instagram.com/p/BpkTvc6HBMX/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheetWhatever you call it, I think most training-interested folk would be pretty happy to be able to do it.
Quote from: Danny on October 31, 2018, 08:06:24 pmQuote from: finbarrr on October 31, 2018, 12:08:03 pmwhat to call this though?https://www.instagram.com/p/BpkTvc6HBMX/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheetWhatever you call it, I think most training-interested folk would be pretty happy to be able to do it.His arms are bent, which makes things significantly easier. Back around Megos.
This. Is. UKB. Land of the dire. Land of the primitive. Land of the offensive. No carrots here. Only sticks.