[shark]

11.1- 1.3 Average 156.1lb (0.1lb less than last week)

M. Afternoon. PM Malham with Zippy. Cloudy cold - Mint!! Cons x 2. Ironed out foot and movement tweaks on Oak. 4 decent goes from ground - one touching the horn and another falling whilst setting up for throw. Unfortunately I wrenched my right middle finger sideways whilst stripping the route. Stayed in Airton with Zips

T AM Forecast to be cloudy so went to crag late morning. Baking. Did Consenting 3x and FAEE 2x and fell asleep in sun. No coffee. Finger sore. When Oak went into shade I did shit. Couldn’t even get from ground to undercut by third bolt. First and last time Ill go on the Oak two days in succession. Had considered staying overnight again but given dire performance went back to Sheff

W

T

F Malham with Jerome. Raining and cool to begin with but got warmer and humid when it stopped. A few midges popped out to say hello. Met and climbed with Sam W.  Finger much better. Went from ground to undercut by third bolt but kept falling in move to cramped sidehold above. Reworked the move and instead of stabbing my left foot randomly out to counterbalance I found a foothold to aim for which makes the move much less sketchy. Managed to go from ground to just about to do throw when right hand slipped off intermediate. Tried link of throw to top but didn’t get close

S AM Debated whether to train and decided not to PM Drove to Northumberland

S Sonia did Kielder Water half marathon then I drove us back to Sheffield
 
Disappointing week but at least I have refined the start now. Got weight back under control in the latter half of week. Up to Malham again tomorrow and probably Friday. Hope Ive not lost too much endurance.

[Fiend]

Where did you stay in Airton?

[Will Hunt]

Just gonna slot this question in here because it's a good place for transient questions not worth their own thread. On Beaver Cleaver at Parisellas, you go out to the lip hold with your right: are you then allowed to use intermediates with your left to work up to the good diagonal crimp, or are you expected to lock the lip and power straight up to it?

[webbo]

Just gonna slot this question in here because it's a good place for transient questions not worth their own thread. On Beaver Cleaver at Parisellas, you go out to the lip hold with your right: are you then allowed to use intermediates with your left to work up to the good diagonal crimp, or are you expected to lock the lip and power straight up to it?

I don’t think the cliff rules apply across there.

[jamesturnbull97]

Been reading the power club for a while so thought it time to get involved myself.

M.
T.
W. The run of surf in the NE continued. Good session at Sandsend on the high tide, then secret reef on the low.
T.  Malham with Mina, Unjustified a bit damp again and not really feeling in shape for it at the moment. Got back on Bats and Dogs instead, reacquainted myself with the Bat route boulder, managed to figure out a sequence for the start of the traverse where I was struggling to fit into the drop knees. Also managed to do the drop into the undercut mid trav.
F.
S. Malham with Mina and Jim. Arrived early on a cloudy forecast only for it to be a lie so lots of waiting for shade. Back on RBAD, couldn't do loads of the moves I could on Thursday on the trav, fingers must have been tired. Rescued the day by linking the headwall on Rainshadow on my last go.
S. Good day out on the MTB for the first time in a while, good to see the Ibbertsons and Ben again after Ceuse in the summer.

Back to Malham tomorrow, probably on RBAD again, fingers crossed for some good links or a belay tick.

[moose]

I don’t think the cliff rules apply across there.

Behold! Bold Will, crimps and cranks to the finishing jug.  He exults! Leaps and bounds with the joy of sending.  A rasping, local voice intrudes, "we don't use that smear around here..... back around".

[shark]

Where did you stay in Airton?

A friend is renting a flat there for a couple of weeks

[Will Hunt]

Just gonna slot this question in here because it's a good place for transient questions not worth their own thread. On Beaver Cleaver at Parisellas, you go out to the lip hold with your right: are you then allowed to use intermediates with your left to work up to the good diagonal crimp, or are you expected to lock the lip and power straight up to it?

I don’t think the cliff rules apply across there.

The guide describes the sequence - it has to because going out to the lip hold artificially adds difficulty and its not really a true line of least resistance. So you might think that nothing else is in, but the guide also specifically states at the start of the chapter that the cave is not an eliminate venue and that most things follow a natural sequence, given a set of start and finish holds 

[webbo]

Maybe it doesn’t mention the intermediates, as it is expected that anyone who could get to the lip would not be weak enough to need them.

[Will Hunt]

Getting to the lip is piss, Steve

[shark]

Been reading the power club for a while so thought it time to get involved myself.

 

[webbo]

Getting to the lip is piss, Steve

Well in that case you need to build a model in your garage and work on it until it’s piss, then go do it. Sit next to it waiting for someone who does it using the intermediates.
Then away you go.

[nai]

M- 10s hangs. As expected not quite as good as previous session but better than every other going back to 2015
TRX - tried a couple of new exercises

T - Foundry, 4x10 mins AeroCap on autobelays testing whether the knee might  stand up to heading outside. Decided probably not
Bodyweight gymnastic shizzle

W rest

Th
made some large campus rungs for my board last week. 2ish joints and flat (ish) edge spaced 50 (ish) cm apart. 6 sets of 1-2-3-4-5
10s hangs - fractionally better than Monday. Introduced F2 & B3 1/2 crimps
TRX - setted the new exercises

F -
Limit, system board style, basic mirror moves x6 attempts
5 rep repeaters at 85% of max hang, good intensity.
Bodyweight stuff, bit tired so concentrated on a few of the harder exercises and tried a couple of new ones

S rest 10x1 min HI AeroCap on board. Few minor tweaks from the knee but decided probably ok to head outside

S REsiSTed the temptation to join the kids on the parkour at Endcliff Park. Hadn't been for years since they were too small really but it looks great, heart in mouth watching nipper swing around.

Going to test the knee bouldering tis week so start with and take it from there, half tempted to call time on the season and just get on with training for next year. Would be odd going into a training block not feeling knackered and with no finger tweaks .

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries week seven.

STG (by end Sept 2009)- Leading somewhere near my previous "comfort zone" level (let's say HVS trad, low sport 6s), carrying normal loads to the crag.

M- Rest. As I always write for Mondays nowadays, battered from the weekend.

T- Gym. When I saw the physio last he advised me to try interval-based bike sessions for a progress boost and gave me an example session that sounded hard. Indeed it was hard, but I completed it.

W- Rest. Ooof. Woken up by hip pain in the night. Very sore all day. Questioning the wisdom of the bike effort.

T- Rest. Breakthrough day!  Walking very easily, even on stairs, and back feeling very good too. The gains from the weekend and Tuesday's gym sesh evidently arrived at once.

F- Foundry autobelays. Surprised how well I climbed- when I first went 7 weeks ago neither my brain or body knew how to climb, then my brain remembered but my body didn't really cooperate, now it feels like they're working in sync, my body is just weak and unfit. Really felt like my technique was back. Climbed up to 5+ pretty easily and did a short vert 6a but ran out of steam on the 6a in the middle of the Furnace wall (the steepest bit with autos on) repeatedly. Changed tack and attempted a vert (felt like a slab, not sure if it is or not though) 6a+ which I got to the last move on with a lot of effort but couldn't quite finish. So much fun to try really hard. 

S- Rest. Went to see Notts County play at Macclesfield Town. I don't support Notts County (my other half does) and it was a dreadful game, but I'd forgotten how much fun "away days" are and it was nice to stand on a terrace for the first time in ages.

S- Birchen. A good place for me at the moment as there are so many "easy" routes to go at but they have starts that test my weaknesses. Not ideal is that it's always swarming with uni groups this time of year and I've done the majority of the routes before. Led three routes, all VDiff or HVD but attempted a few harder ones as well.

 Perhaps people who understand training better than me can help me out- I'm gaining fitness in terms of being able to do more stuff before I get tired but still lagging quite far behind in terms of strength fitness. Basically whichever energy system it is that makes you out quickly of breath after doing a few pullups rather than steadily out of breath when running for ten minutes is what I need to improve. How do I do that?   

[Fiend]

Where did you stay in Airton?

A friend is renting a flat there for a couple of weeks

Ah. I've stayed in the Quaker house there a couple of times, chilled out place.

[SA Chris]

M - Nothing
T - Nothing
W - lunchtime run - 6.5 k tempo. Bouldering session in evening feeling stronger, but little enthusiasm, as I'm not going to be climbing for next 3 weeks.
T - Nothing.
F - Nothing. Packed and drove.
S - Clova Duathlon. Fantastic clear day, but really cold first thing. 27 km road bike ride passed without incident, enjoyable pootle in gorgeous scenery, on recently resurfaced roads. Quick transition and then then run / walk up Mayar (first time) and Driesh (done on skis last winter). before charging back down Kilbo. Unfortunately there is path work getting done, so a nasty muddy detour. Still managed the 15.5 km and 890 m of ascent in 2h21. Then 5.5 km bike blast back to hotel. Great fun event, comes recommended and all money goes to Tayside mountain rescue. Would have loved to stay for party and get lashed, but duties called.

I've now bouldered, trad climbed, winter climbed, ski toured, walked, cycled, mountain biked and run in the hills around Clova. Should SUP down the river sometime!

S - Nothing, packed for holiday.

[spidermonkey09]

M - rest. Skin completely trashed.

T - fingerboard session. Improvement on last week suggests I was starting from a very low base!

W - rest. Few beer sin the evening.

T - Cliff after work. Finished off the Keel which was nice and good to finish off from last winter. Mint conditions soloing around on Low Man afterwards and an empty crag, brilliant.

F - rest.

S - Malham. In hindsight probably a bit warm but nice day regardless. Back on Predator and linked it to the first rest from the ground for the first time. Also made  a bit of progress on the top wall. Only section I'm still unclear about is the traverse from the dogtooth. After that I think I'll hammer it on a toprope to learn the positions a bit better.Jon/The Wizard's beta very helpful. Section after the first lower off felt much better today, but still awkward. Still waiting for a session in good conditions on it!

S - Earl. Did Grape Nut from the deck but felt very weak on the Flakes. Finished off on Desert Island Arete; strong contender for the best problem on grit for me. Climbed it on the right hand side without the totally eliminate detour onto the left wall, which apparently is the 'Andy's Problem' variant. This a crock of shit; not only is it a bad name but its only three moves of different climbing and to ignore them would be eliminate in the extreme. Its also 'the line', going straight up the arete. I'm taking the tick for DIA! Route looks amazing and one to come back for.

Probably the same again this week; skin is ragged. I have a persistent split on my right index finger which is a total pain; any tips for how to fix this much appreciated. I've experimented with antihydral previously with OK results and might give that another go.

[Steve R]

I have a persistent split on my right index finger which is a total pain; any tips for how to fix this much appreciated. I've experimented with antihydral previously with OK results and might give that another go.

Things I've found to help get splits healed well:
-sand either side of the split lightly (~150/200p grade) but persistently (few times a day) aiming to get the skin uniform and flat.  obviously not possible initially if down to blood but can still get the edges rounded off and split more uniform from the off.
-keep it moisturised when not climbing.  putting anti-hydral on a split sounds like a terrible idea to me-likely to just dry out and just split more?  might depend on what kind of skin you have I guess.
-climb with tape and (crucially) superglue on it for a few sessions more than you think you need to.  I find just one layer of tape + glue around the split and can usually leave all of the pad exposed so it's not actually much of a detriment on most holds.
-I reckon splinting the finger (when not climbing obvs!) makes a huge difference in how well it heals and reduces the chances of that disappointing tearing sensation of a newly healed split re-opening the first time you crimp something quite hard.  splint it with something like a lolly stick and tape such that the split is being stretched open a bit if pos. Def worth doing over night when your fingers are normally curled up (split closed) for hours.

I agree they're a massive pain - sometimes feels like a pulley would heal faster!  Prevention better than cure I suppose - try to keep skin in that area at appropriate suppleness/moisture level on all fingers, keep it sanded and uniform and tape and glue preemptively if you're aware one's at risk....not that I remember to heed much of that prevention advice myself of course 

[Bradders]

Probably the same again this week; skin is ragged. I have a persistent split on my right index finger which is a total pain; any tips for how to fix this much appreciated. I've experimented with antihydral previously with OK results and might give that another go.

Antihydral on a split is surely a bad idea; literally the opposite of what the skin needs!

I've always found packing the split with Climb On or more recently the Rhino Skin Split Stick has been quickest for repairing a split, along with superglue taping and careful filing. I'd think splinting the finger to hold the split open, if it's in a joint, is also a good idea; might take a little longer to heal over but it'll be a better recovery with less chance of recurrence.

[spidermonkey09]

Antihydral on a split is surely a bad idea; literally the opposite of what the skin needs!

I've always found packing the split with Climb On or more recently the Rhino Skin Split Stick has been quickest for repairing a split, along with superglue taping and careful filing. I'd think splinting the finger to hold the split open, if it's in a joint, is also a good idea; might take a little longer to heal over but it'll be a better recovery with less chance of recurrence.

Yeah I should have been clearer; I do not intend to antihydral on the split; I meant more when it has healed and the skin is approaching 'normal thickness'!

Currently it hasn't actually split, its just really really thin and a few layers have come off it. I think I just need to get a bit savvier with the finger; pre-emptive taping as a matter of course and only getting rid of the tape if its actually having a material effect on the climbing would be a good start.

My other fingers are relatively resistant to skin damage but this particular finger gets thin much more quickly and splits on pretty much every big trip I go on.

[tomtom]

Well done on the Keel!

[petejh]

Disappointing week but at least I have refined the start now. Got weight back under control in the latter half of week. Up to Malham again tomorrow and probably Friday. Hope Ive not lost too much endurance.

Nice try at dodging paying the £20 you owe me for sending it but you've one more week left..

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - system crimp session. Pull ups, lock offs, tricep planks, weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - wanted to do some system, then tried some climbing. One warm up problem, that I wanted to repeat for a few times for some volume, but don't know why, I moved the pads under a nasty old problem that I climbed three years ago after two months trying it, and did it second go. When I did it first I thought it was 7c+, I don't think it's harder than 7a+. Felt so good anyway. Mega YYFY!!! Weights, power cleans after a hiatus, 6x6 60% (48 kg). High pulls, tricep planks, abs circuit x4.
Thu - quick dumbbell complex and pull ups. Various loaded carries.
Fri - dumbbell complex and full thruster.
Sat - boxing bag, all the hits x50, in both stances.
Sun - rest.

I love my board.

[shark]

Nice try at dodging paying the £20 you owe me for sending it but you've one more week left..

My money is safe

[Bradders]

My other fingers are relatively resistant to skin damage but this particular finger gets thin much more quickly and splits on pretty much every big trip I go on.

That's interesting, if it's always that finger and that one only it might be an idea to think about what you do with it day to day.

For example, RH index is often what people use for their mouse when using a computer. It could be that clicking and scrolling away all day is having a damaging effect on the skin, or at least preventing it from recovering properly. Try switching to using your LH on the mouse for a week, or your middle finger. Just a thought.