[shark]

11.1- 1.3 Average 156.1lb (0.1lb less than last week)

M. Afternoon. PM Malham with Zippy. Cloudy cold - Mint!! Cons x 2. Ironed out foot and movement tweaks on Oak. 4 decent goes from ground - one touching the horn and another falling whilst setting up for throw. Unfortunately I wrenched my right middle finger sideways whilst stripping the route. Stayed in Airton with Zips

T AM Forecast to be cloudy so went to crag late morning. Baking. Did Consenting 3x and FAEE 2x and fell asleep in sun. No coffee. Finger sore. When Oak went into shade I did shit. Couldn’t even get from ground to undercut by third bolt. First and last time Ill go on the Oak two days in succession. Had considered staying overnight again but given dire performance went back to Sheff

W

T

F Malham with Jerome. Raining and cool to begin with but got warmer and humid when it stopped. A few midges popped out to say hello. Met and climbed with Sam W.  Finger much better. Went from ground to undercut by third bolt but kept falling in move to cramped sidehold above. Reworked the move and instead of stabbing my left foot randomly out to counterbalance I found a foothold to aim for which makes the move much less sketchy. Managed to go from ground to just about to do throw when right hand slipped off intermediate. Tried link of throw to top but didn’t get close

S AM Debated whether to train and decided not to PM Drove to Northumberland

S Sonia did Kielder Water half marathon then I drove us back to Sheffield
 
Disappointing week but at least I have refined the start now. Got weight back under control in the latter half of week. Up to Malham again tomorrow and probably Friday. Hope Ive not lost too much endurance.

[Fiend]

Where did you stay in Airton?

[Will Hunt]

Just gonna slot this question in here because it's a good place for transient questions not worth their own thread. On Beaver Cleaver at Parisellas, you go out to the lip hold with your right: are you then allowed to use intermediates with your left to work up to the good diagonal crimp, or are you expected to lock the lip and power straight up to it?

[webbo]

Just gonna slot this question in here because it's a good place for transient questions not worth their own thread. On Beaver Cleaver at Parisellas, you go out to the lip hold with your right: are you then allowed to use intermediates with your left to work up to the good diagonal crimp, or are you expected to lock the lip and power straight up to it?

I don’t think the cliff rules apply across there.

[jamesturnbull97]

Been reading the power club for a while so thought it time to get involved myself.

M.
T.
W. The run of surf in the NE continued. Good session at Sandsend on the high tide, then secret reef on the low.
T.  Malham with Mina, Unjustified a bit damp again and not really feeling in shape for it at the moment. Got back on Bats and Dogs instead, reacquainted myself with the Bat route boulder, managed to figure out a sequence for the start of the traverse where I was struggling to fit into the drop knees. Also managed to do the drop into the undercut mid trav.
F.
S. Malham with Mina and Jim. Arrived early on a cloudy forecast only for it to be a lie so lots of waiting for shade. Back on RBAD, couldn't do loads of the moves I could on Thursday on the trav, fingers must have been tired. Rescued the day by linking the headwall on Rainshadow on my last go.
S. Good day out on the MTB for the first time in a while, good to see the Ibbertsons and Ben again after Ceuse in the summer.

Back to Malham tomorrow, probably on RBAD again, fingers crossed for some good links or a belay tick.

[moose]

I don’t think the cliff rules apply across there.

Behold! Bold Will, crimps and cranks to the finishing jug.  He exults! Leaps and bounds with the joy of sending.  A rasping, local voice intrudes, "we don't use that smear around here..... back around".

[shark]

Where did you stay in Airton?

A friend is renting a flat there for a couple of weeks

[Will Hunt]

Just gonna slot this question in here because it's a good place for transient questions not worth their own thread. On Beaver Cleaver at Parisellas, you go out to the lip hold with your right: are you then allowed to use intermediates with your left to work up to the good diagonal crimp, or are you expected to lock the lip and power straight up to it?

I don’t think the cliff rules apply across there.

The guide describes the sequence - it has to because going out to the lip hold artificially adds difficulty and its not really a true line of least resistance. So you might think that nothing else is in, but the guide also specifically states at the start of the chapter that the cave is not an eliminate venue and that most things follow a natural sequence, given a set of start and finish holds 

[webbo]

Maybe it doesn’t mention the intermediates, as it is expected that anyone who could get to the lip would not be weak enough to need them.

[Will Hunt]

Getting to the lip is piss, Steve

[shark]

Been reading the power club for a while so thought it time to get involved myself.

 

[webbo]

Getting to the lip is piss, Steve

Well in that case you need to build a model in your garage and work on it until it’s piss, then go do it. Sit next to it waiting for someone who does it using the intermediates.
Then away you go.

[nai]

M- 10s hangs. As expected not quite as good as previous session but better than every other going back to 2015
TRX - tried a couple of new exercises

T - Foundry, 4x10 mins AeroCap on autobelays testing whether the knee might  stand up to heading outside. Decided probably not
Bodyweight gymnastic shizzle

W rest

Th
made some large campus rungs for my board last week. 2ish joints and flat (ish) edge spaced 50 (ish) cm apart. 6 sets of 1-2-3-4-5
10s hangs - fractionally better than Monday. Introduced F2 & B3 1/2 crimps
TRX - setted the new exercises

F -
Limit, system board style, basic mirror moves x6 attempts
5 rep repeaters at 85% of max hang, good intensity.
Bodyweight stuff, bit tired so concentrated on a few of the harder exercises and tried a couple of new ones

S rest 10x1 min HI AeroCap on board. Few minor tweaks from the knee but decided probably ok to head outside

S REsiSTed the temptation to join the kids on the parkour at Endcliff Park. Hadn't been for years since they were too small really but it looks great, heart in mouth watching nipper swing around.

Going to test the knee bouldering tis week so start with and take it from there, half tempted to call time on the season and just get on with training for next year. Would be odd going into a training block not feeling knackered and with no finger tweaks .

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries week seven.

STG (by end Sept 2009)- Leading somewhere near my previous "comfort zone" level (let's say HVS trad, low sport 6s), carrying normal loads to the crag.

M- Rest. As I always write for Mondays nowadays, battered from the weekend.

T- Gym. When I saw the physio last he advised me to try interval-based bike sessions for a progress boost and gave me an example session that sounded hard. Indeed it was hard, but I completed it.

W- Rest. Ooof. Woken up by hip pain in the night. Very sore all day. Questioning the wisdom of the bike effort.

T- Rest. Breakthrough day!  Walking very easily, even on stairs, and back feeling very good too. The gains from the weekend and Tuesday's gym sesh evidently arrived at once.

F- Foundry autobelays. Surprised how well I climbed- when I first went 7 weeks ago neither my brain or body knew how to climb, then my brain remembered but my body didn't really cooperate, now it feels like they're working in sync, my body is just weak and unfit. Really felt like my technique was back. Climbed up to 5+ pretty easily and did a short vert 6a but ran out of steam on the 6a in the middle of the Furnace wall (the steepest bit with autos on) repeatedly. Changed tack and attempted a vert (felt like a slab, not sure if it is or not though) 6a+ which I got to the last move on with a lot of effort but couldn't quite finish. So much fun to try really hard. 

S- Rest. Went to see Notts County play at Macclesfield Town. I don't support Notts County (my other half does) and it was a dreadful game, but I'd forgotten how much fun "away days" are and it was nice to stand on a terrace for the first time in ages.

S- Birchen. A good place for me at the moment as there are so many "easy" routes to go at but they have starts that test my weaknesses. Not ideal is that it's always swarming with uni groups this time of year and I've done the majority of the routes before. Led three routes, all VDiff or HVD but attempted a few harder ones as well.

 Perhaps people who understand training better than me can help me out- I'm gaining fitness in terms of being able to do more stuff before I get tired but still lagging quite far behind in terms of strength fitness. Basically whichever energy system it is that makes you out quickly of breath after doing a few pullups rather than steadily out of breath when running for ten minutes is what I need to improve. How do I do that?   

[Fiend]

Where did you stay in Airton?

A friend is renting a flat there for a couple of weeks

Ah. I've stayed in the Quaker house there a couple of times, chilled out place.

[SA Chris]

M - Nothing
T - Nothing
W - lunchtime run - 6.5 k tempo. Bouldering session in evening feeling stronger, but little enthusiasm, as I'm not going to be climbing for next 3 weeks.
T - Nothing.
F - Nothing. Packed and drove.
S - Clova Duathlon. Fantastic clear day, but really cold first thing. 27 km road bike ride passed without incident, enjoyable pootle in gorgeous scenery, on recently resurfaced roads. Quick transition and then then run / walk up Mayar (first time) and Driesh (done on skis last winter). before charging back down Kilbo. Unfortunately there is path work getting done, so a nasty muddy detour. Still managed the 15.5 km and 890 m of ascent in 2h21. Then 5.5 km bike blast back to hotel. Great fun event, comes recommended and all money goes to Tayside mountain rescue. Would have loved to stay for party and get lashed, but duties called.

I've now bouldered, trad climbed, winter climbed, ski toured, walked, cycled, mountain biked and run in the hills around Clova. Should SUP down the river sometime!

S - Nothing, packed for holiday.

[spidermonkey09]

M - rest. Skin completely trashed.

T - fingerboard session. Improvement on last week suggests I was starting from a very low base!

W - rest. Few beer sin the evening.

T - Cliff after work. Finished off the Keel which was nice and good to finish off from last winter. Mint conditions soloing around on Low Man afterwards and an empty crag, brilliant.

F - rest.

S - Malham. In hindsight probably a bit warm but nice day regardless. Back on Predator and linked it to the first rest from the ground for the first time. Also made  a bit of progress on the top wall. Only section I'm still unclear about is the traverse from the dogtooth. After that I think I'll hammer it on a toprope to learn the positions a bit better.Jon/The Wizard's beta very helpful. Section after the first lower off felt much better today, but still awkward. Still waiting for a session in good conditions on it!

S - Earl. Did Grape Nut from the deck but felt very weak on the Flakes. Finished off on Desert Island Arete; strong contender for the best problem on grit for me. Climbed it on the right hand side without the totally eliminate detour onto the left wall, which apparently is the 'Andy's Problem' variant. This a crock of shit; not only is it a bad name but its only three moves of different climbing and to ignore them would be eliminate in the extreme. Its also 'the line', going straight up the arete. I'm taking the tick for DIA! Route looks amazing and one to come back for.

Probably the same again this week; skin is ragged. I have a persistent split on my right index finger which is a total pain; any tips for how to fix this much appreciated. I've experimented with antihydral previously with OK results and might give that another go.

[Steve R]

I have a persistent split on my right index finger which is a total pain; any tips for how to fix this much appreciated. I've experimented with antihydral previously with OK results and might give that another go.

Things I've found to help get splits healed well:
-sand either side of the split lightly (~150/200p grade) but persistently (few times a day) aiming to get the skin uniform and flat.  obviously not possible initially if down to blood but can still get the edges rounded off and split more uniform from the off.
-keep it moisturised when not climbing.  putting anti-hydral on a split sounds like a terrible idea to me-likely to just dry out and just split more?  might depend on what kind of skin you have I guess.
-climb with tape and (crucially) superglue on it for a few sessions more than you think you need to.  I find just one layer of tape + glue around the split and can usually leave all of the pad exposed so it's not actually much of a detriment on most holds.
-I reckon splinting the finger (when not climbing obvs!) makes a huge difference in how well it heals and reduces the chances of that disappointing tearing sensation of a newly healed split re-opening the first time you crimp something quite hard.  splint it with something like a lolly stick and tape such that the split is being stretched open a bit if pos. Def worth doing over night when your fingers are normally curled up (split closed) for hours.

I agree they're a massive pain - sometimes feels like a pulley would heal faster!  Prevention better than cure I suppose - try to keep skin in that area at appropriate suppleness/moisture level on all fingers, keep it sanded and uniform and tape and glue preemptively if you're aware one's at risk....not that I remember to heed much of that prevention advice myself of course 

[Bradders]

Probably the same again this week; skin is ragged. I have a persistent split on my right index finger which is a total pain; any tips for how to fix this much appreciated. I've experimented with antihydral previously with OK results and might give that another go.

Antihydral on a split is surely a bad idea; literally the opposite of what the skin needs!

I've always found packing the split with Climb On or more recently the Rhino Skin Split Stick has been quickest for repairing a split, along with superglue taping and careful filing. I'd think splinting the finger to hold the split open, if it's in a joint, is also a good idea; might take a little longer to heal over but it'll be a better recovery with less chance of recurrence.

[spidermonkey09]

Antihydral on a split is surely a bad idea; literally the opposite of what the skin needs!

I've always found packing the split with Climb On or more recently the Rhino Skin Split Stick has been quickest for repairing a split, along with superglue taping and careful filing. I'd think splinting the finger to hold the split open, if it's in a joint, is also a good idea; might take a little longer to heal over but it'll be a better recovery with less chance of recurrence.

Yeah I should have been clearer; I do not intend to antihydral on the split; I meant more when it has healed and the skin is approaching 'normal thickness'!

Currently it hasn't actually split, its just really really thin and a few layers have come off it. I think I just need to get a bit savvier with the finger; pre-emptive taping as a matter of course and only getting rid of the tape if its actually having a material effect on the climbing would be a good start.

My other fingers are relatively resistant to skin damage but this particular finger gets thin much more quickly and splits on pretty much every big trip I go on.

[tomtom]

Well done on the Keel!

[petejh]

Disappointing week but at least I have refined the start now. Got weight back under control in the latter half of week. Up to Malham again tomorrow and probably Friday. Hope Ive not lost too much endurance.

Nice try at dodging paying the £20 you owe me for sending it but you've one more week left..

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - system crimp session. Pull ups, lock offs, tricep planks, weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - wanted to do some system, then tried some climbing. One warm up problem, that I wanted to repeat for a few times for some volume, but don't know why, I moved the pads under a nasty old problem that I climbed three years ago after two months trying it, and did it second go. When I did it first I thought it was 7c+, I don't think it's harder than 7a+. Felt so good anyway. Mega YYFY!!! Weights, power cleans after a hiatus, 6x6 60% (48 kg). High pulls, tricep planks, abs circuit x4.
Thu - quick dumbbell complex and pull ups. Various loaded carries.
Fri - dumbbell complex and full thruster.
Sat - boxing bag, all the hits x50, in both stances.
Sun - rest.

I love my board.

[shark]

Nice try at dodging paying the £20 you owe me for sending it but you've one more week left..

My money is safe

[Bradders]

My other fingers are relatively resistant to skin damage but this particular finger gets thin much more quickly and splits on pretty much every big trip I go on.

That's interesting, if it's always that finger and that one only it might be an idea to think about what you do with it day to day.

For example, RH index is often what people use for their mouse when using a computer. It could be that clicking and scrolling away all day is having a damaging effect on the skin, or at least preventing it from recovering properly. Try switching to using your LH on the mouse for a week, or your middle finger. Just a thought.

[Coops_13]

M: Tag rugby, won the game, good phys

T: Arch. Good session. Max hangs, 7 sec hang with 3 min rest. 8 sets pyramid from -22kg to -16kg to -22kg with double set at -16kg moving at 2kg increments. Fingers feeling good, could have gone heavier. A couple of sets of Ts, Ys and Is on the rings. Front lever holds, lock-off attempts. Back physio X3 then finished with two sets of antagonistic exercises - wrist and bicep curls, chest and shoulder press

W:

T: Arch. Good session. Max hangs, 7 sec hang with 3 min rest. 8 sets pyramid from -22kg to -14kg to -20kg at 2kg increments. PB of -14kg!. A couple of sets of Ts, Ys and Is on the rings. Front lever holds, lock-off attempts. Back physio X3 then finished with two sets of antagonistic exercises - wrist and bicep curls, chest and shoulder press

F:

S: Tor. Warmed up and eventually got Peverse Reverse 7A+/B. Tried Cave Problem and got my heel in the hold but you have to put so much force through the heel it started to hurt - felt like my bruised heel from Feb was flaring up… Finished off on a couple of Pinches Wall problems before heading to:
Smallfield Roof. Done Dancing Man before so did Smallfield Lip 7A which links Larger Lout into Dancing Man, not a bad link-up

S: Almscliff. Warmed up on Flying Arete and did Stallone's Stinking Badger 6C before trying the extension finish of Underhand. Didn't get on with it at all, couldn't summon the psyche to crimp hard enough to do the extension finish in isolation. Went up to DWR so mates could play on the classics, a couple of goes on the moves of DBS into DWR but feeling pretty knackered from the previous day. Did some 6C+ traverse of the back wall of DWR that appeared on UKC recently. Finished off by doing South Cave Traverse Reverse 7A+, campusing most of the way

Not sure I'm doing max hangs correctly, I'm basically using it as a pyramid as I'm scared of injury but not all of the hangs are maximal. Should I instead do something like two sets of "warm-up" weight and then maximal for six sets?

[Nibile]

W - rest. Few beer sin the evening.

Beer is neither a sin nor a crime.

[Nibile]

Perhaps people who understand training better than me can help me out- I'm gaining fitness in terms of being able to do more stuff before I get tired but still lagging quite far behind in terms of strength fitness. Basically whichever energy system it is that makes you out quickly of breath after doing a few pullups rather than steadily out of breath when running for ten minutes is what I need to improve. How do I do that?

Your question is extremely complex.
It could be anything, from the amount of general activity that you're doing, to simple recovery after your accident, to inadequate nutrition or warm up or sleep, to muscles not ready yet for strength training, etc.
Take it easy.

[shark]

Not sure I'm doing max hangs correctly, I'm basically using it as a pyramid as I'm scared of injury but not all of the hangs are maximal. Should I instead do something like two sets of "warm-up" weight and then maximal for six sets?

Given that you got a PB keep at it. Classically you would scale the pyramid like you are doing until fully recruited then do a few max hangs and stop but it’s all mainly guesswork.

[spidermonkey09]

did Stallone's Stinking Badger 6C

This is a way better name for the problem. Hopefully it will be an accidental misprint in the next guide...

[spidermonkey09]

 Perhaps people who understand training better than me can help me out- I'm gaining fitness in terms of being able to do more stuff before I get tired but still lagging quite far behind in terms of strength fitness. Basically whichever energy system it is that makes you out quickly of breath after doing a few pullups rather than steadily out of breath when running for ten minutes is what I need to improve. How do I do that?

Disclaimer; my knowledge on training is very much at a pub level and what has worked for me.

The reference to pull ups muddies the waters a bit for me here, but if I translated that into climbing I would deduce that you're powering out quickly; ie you do a few hard moves and dont have the guns to do any more, rather than feeling pumped. This suggests a weakness anaerobically so would have a look at doing some work on ancap and anpow. Have a look at the Barrows sport climbing doc (which is what I'm working off basically) and see if it ticks any boxes for you.

This is probably totally wrong so don't set too much store by it!

[tomtom]

Not sure I'm doing max hangs correctly, I'm basically using it as a pyramid as I'm scared of injury but not all of the hangs are maximal. Should I instead do something like two sets of "warm-up" weight and then maximal for six sets?

Given that you got a PB keep at it. Classically you would scale the pyramid like you are doing until fully recruited then do a few max hangs and stop but when I train its all mainly guesswork.

Fixed that for you Shark x

[Coops_13]

did Stallone's Stinking Badger 6C

This is a way better name for the problem. Hopefully it will be an accidental misprint in the next guide...

Oops! For some reason whenever I've seen the problem, I've always read Badger...

[tommytwotone]

did Stallone's Stinking Badger 6C

This is a way better name for the problem. Hopefully it will be an accidental misprint in the next guide...

Oops! For some reason whenever I've seen the problem, I've always read Badger...

I agree - probably the worst problem name at The Cliff in it's official guise.

[Murph]

Hi Ross,

I like to do my fingerboarding like this:
Warm up (easy hangs or, preferably, easy circuit)
Start the stopwatch and then do 10 second hangs on the minute marks. Yesterday’s session looked like this:
1:+16kgs
4:+24kgs
7:+32kgs
10:+40kgs
13:+40kgs
16:+16kgs (smaller hold)
19:+24kgs
22:+32kgs
25:+32kgs (8 seconds)

When I’m going ok the numbers are higher but the principle is the same.

I’ve not been injured doing it yet. Might be I put too much time into warm up hangs but when I try to take a shortcut in the warmup I just can’t hang as hard.

Like shark said it looks like you’re going well so be wary of messing it up. That said, I’d question the value of the other side of the pyramid - further effort after max effort is just eating into recovery. Usual caveats apply.

[GazM]

What size edges are you hanging Murph?
I've recently started trying max hangs for the first time and I'm not sure what the best balance is between smaller edge vs. adding more weight.
Intuitively, hanging lots of weight from relatively big holds (>20mm) seems less applicable to the things I'm training for, which generally involve moving between <20mm edges, but what do i know? Does beastly strength on bigger holds transfer better to pulling on small holds?

[shark]

What size edges are you hanging Murph?
I've recently started trying max hangs for the first time and I'm not sure what the best balance is between smaller edge vs. adding more weight.
Intuitively, hanging lots of weight from relatively big holds (>20mm) seems less applicable to the things I'm training for, which generally involve moving between <20mm edges, but what do i know? Does beastly strength on bigger holds transfer better to pulling on small holds?

Eva Lopez recommends alternating between a block of a few weeks of heavily weighted max hangs on a larger edge and then a block of unweighted or lower weighted hangs on a smaller edge.

[Murph]

I train on the small and 2nd smallest bm1k holds. Half crimp on the 2nd smallest and open drag on the smallest.

I’m not at all convinced that what I do is optimal though, but touch wood it hasn’t resulted in a finger injury and I’ve consistently been doing this inconsistently for a couple of years.

Bit of debate really about whether it’s useful at all or whether holds should be half crimped or not at all etc.

Eva Lopez did some research into the small edge or bigger edge with more weight comparison and IIRC I think she found that bigger with more weight had better benefits but I haven’t looked since I decided on this routine a while back. In fact from what I remember I think it might have been a case of training on a certain edge until a certain standard of added weight could be hung then moving to a smaller edge and resetting. Might look into this a bit more. I could do with jazzing up my routine as I’m in no hurry to tick anything in particular at the mo.

Shark - got a link? I’m interested in digging in a bit more.

[abarro81]

The Lopez research is pretty low quality - I wouldn't base much on it. I would tend to echo the Anderson brothers - do what's most applicable to what you're training for

[GazM]

Cheers all, as ever, there's no right answer!
If I ever climb my projects I'll let you know which method helped.

[shark]

Shark - got a link? I’m interested in digging in a bit more.

http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/

[moose]

The Lopez research is pretty low quality - I wouldn't base much on it. I would tend to echo the Anderson brothers - do what's most applicable to what you're training for

Aye, it's not exactly pharmaceutical grade research.  Still, my own routine is based on her conclusions, with "big hold / big weights" the core of my finger-boarding (just the occasional phase of "small hold / little weight", for a change), mainly as I feel my performance then isn't so influenced by random factors like skin and conditions.

[tomtom]

Murph - is the first column number of reps??

[measles23]

Might be I put too much time into warm up hangs but when I try to take a shortcut in the warmup I just can’t hang as hard.

Looks reasonable to me - I do a very similar asymmetric pyramid with 4 to 5 warm up sets, usually just steadily increasing weight, then 1 to 3 max hang sets, then 3 to 5 “working” sets at about 80%
Nearly identical to my DL routine...

Been lazy and unfocused for a bit so should knuckle down to PC again..

Took time out over summer to try to heal a couple of befucked finger joints - injected both with triamcinolone, which was exquisitely painful but moderately effective.

Also bailed on trying to progress deadlift - I spent about a year religiously cycling but could not break plateau - I’ve come to terms with having lifted 230kg (3.33bw) cleanly twice on video, and that’s a pretty reasonable lifetime achievement.
I’m still lifting, but trying to see it as a secondary exercise to free up more energy for climbing..

Last few months I think I’ve reached a reasonable balance - lost a bunch of weight (72kg to 66.8kg), weekly wall sessions at Stoke AW going pretty well; have flashed V7, climbed V8 - getting back on the moonboard regularly and have just about acclimatised to it.
Occasional fingerboard, weighted pull-ups, DL, core exercises all as secondary as hoc exercises.

Been spending time down much beloved Blackwell Dale, esp the crag that dare not speak its name - did low left ovine and now working Mutton Bustin’, King of lambs and Floodgates depending on which is in best nick at any given time - connies variable at the mo, but very inspired but monkeyboy’s achievement on a filthy day (so much so have now bought myself a battery powered fan )

[Murph]

TT - it’s the minute on the clock

Shark - thanks for link, that would have been the first place I’d look

Alex - appreciate that take on Eva’s research. I’m glad to hear it tbh because she does make fingerboarding sound complicated.

Matt - good weight that. Half crimp all the way, yeah? I keep meaning to do it properly. Reckon that way getting strong lies?

[Coops_13]

Cheers guys, I think I've found a better method which includes a greater number of maximal hangs - think I was just scared of trying too hard. More info to come in next week's PC...

[tomtom]

TT - it’s the minute on the clock

Cheers - - makes sense now. Similar to how I did them (dont do them at the moment).

I found I was getting quite alot of achy pain by my PIP when doing the half crimp...

[Nutty]

Finger-boarding wise, I've just started doing an 'integrated strength' session based on the workouts in Climb Strong - Logical Progression book.

The workout is circuit-style where you do hangs in one position (e.g. crimp), then a strength exercise (e.g. deadlifts) followed by a mobility exercise (e.g. hip stretches). You then do hangs in another position (e.g. drag), followed by a different strength exercise and mobility exercise, then hangs in a third position (e.g. half-crimp) with another strength exercise and mobility exercise. Repeat this circuit 3+ times.

The idea of integrating the strength work and mobility exercises is to trigger hormonal release and for injury prevention.

The hangs are recommended to be either a 3-6-9 second ladder as described here https://www.climbstrong.com/hangboard-ladder-training-1/ or Chris Webb-Parsons-style hangs (assisted one-arm hangs in half-crimp at varying elbow angle).