Will keep up the hanging and TRX and possibly try autobelays later in the week.
Commiserations Nai.Rehab Diaries week 5. STG- leading routes and carrying normal loads to the crag by this time next year.M- Rest. Still knackered from toprope heroics on Saturday.Tu- Rest.W- Gym. 30 minutes on bike (more resistance than last session as usual) plus one-legged unstable balancing/ semi-squats before and after. I can do this on my bad leg without touching the wall now. Th- Rest.F- Rest.Sa- Trip up to Heptonstall to take photos. As my mate racked up for the Thin Red Line I set up an ab rope to shoot from. Descending this made me realise that I need to "walk before I can run" with abseiling- absolutely terrified when all my weight was on the rope and couldn't entertain the thought of hanging there calmly taking photos. At the end of the day I seconded Fairy Steps (quarried grit's answer to Bosigran's Doorpost!) which was hard and stressful but I did it clean and even "led" the last bit of ledge-hopping -creaking to the top as my partner had sensibly belayed lower down to watch me. Really enjoyed this.Su- Paparazzi-mission to Stanage. Since I've been mobile I've got quite into this. You go to a busy crag that you can see the routes from the top of and snap pictures of unsuspecting climbers then offer to email them the results after they top out. It's always fun but a bit like fishing- sometimes you come home with good stuff, sometimes a few tiddlers or even nothing. This time was a good haul, partly because I'm quicker and more mobile than before- I did a lot of scrambling up and down and I swear I got much better at it during the course of the afternoon. Seems good for my back to carry camera stuff too.Good weekend. Knackered now!
Nice one Cheque, sounds like you're coming on remarkably quickly.
Commiserations Nai.Su- Paparazzi-mission to Stanage. Since I've been mobile I've got quite into this. You go to a busy crag that you can see the routes from the top of and snap pictures of unsuspecting climbers then offer to email them the results after they top out. It's always fun but a bit like fishing- sometimes you come home with good stuff, sometimes a few tiddlers or even nothing. This time was a good haul, partly because I'm quicker and more mobile than before- I did a lot of scrambling up and down and I swear I got much better at it during the course of the afternoon. Seems good for my back to carry camera stuff too.
Quote from: nai on September 24, 2018, 09:24:51 am Will keep up the hanging and TRX and possibly try autobelays later in the week.I've decided to try to improve my pitiful shoulder strength and just started to give TRX a go. Any exercises you recommend? I've tried long rows, prone / reverse Ts and Ys and they seem to make the appropriate places ache.
S - Almscliff in the afternoon. Weird weather with lots of rain, lots of sun and only good conditions towards the end. Tried The Keel again and got back to where I was falling off last winter. This is so bloody hard when you can't reach the chip from the back. Also tried Pistol Whip but got too warm on the right hand sidepull. Great problem; will go when its cold I think.
I think it will be prudent to adjust the difficulty downwards until I get the form completely right - no sense in risking causing more problems by being too hasty to make gains.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on September 24, 2018, 12:14:18 pmS - Almscliff in the afternoon. Weird weather with lots of rain, lots of sun and only good conditions towards the end. Tried The Keel again and got back to where I was falling off last winter. This is so bloody hard when you can't reach the chip from the back. Also tried Pistol Whip but got too warm on the right hand sidepull. Great problem; will go when its cold I think.You wot? Even Nathaniel can reach the chip and he's so short he's got a Blue Badge for it.
You can go out to the slopey crimp on the lip about 0.5m right of the chip with your right hand instead, it's a bit closer. Also where you have your feet at the back makes a lot of difference.
Quote from: teestub on September 24, 2018, 03:54:10 pmYou can go out to the slopey crimp on the lip about 0.5m right of the chip with your right hand instead, it's a bit closer. Also where you have your feet at the back makes a lot of difference. Yep, thats my current sequence. I currently get that with my left foot in the lock, then right foot pocket, left heel on keel, left hand chip...then lay one to the pocket I presume! Feels solid at the grade that way!
Went to Caley after work and tried Psycho above some pads. Good to get this done.
When you've got the chip in your left hand and the left heel is on, move your right hand out to a vague bit on the lip. It doesn't really look like anything, but you want to go full-crimp on it. That is also critical for me in making the slap to the pocket.Never done the left foot toe drag but it sounds like good beta. Putting the heel hook behind the fin always felt like it was just giving the left foot something to do.
Out of interest, what Font grade does Psycho get?
If you want to discuss The Keel, gentlemen, perhaps you could do that in your own time?
Quote from: nai on September 24, 2018, 05:06:18 pmIf you want to discuss The Keel, gentlemen, perhaps you could do that in your own time? :D
Quote from: Will Hunt on September 24, 2018, 04:48:16 pm......
...
Quote from: tomtom on September 24, 2018, 05:28:44 pmQuote from: nai on September 24, 2018, 05:06:18 pmIf you want to discuss The Keel, gentlemen, perhaps you could do that in your own time? :DAt least let us post a few videos showcasing multiple ways of not doing the problem first
DOMS
None of us tried or did The Keel.
Quote from: SA Chris on September 24, 2018, 03:41:46 pmDOMSWhat did you do the previous week? Can't find your PC entry.
There is a good chance that the Oak will dry out this week.
More life-enhancing vids of Griffs and the Keel please
Quote from: shark on September 26, 2018, 11:00:44 amMore life-enhancing vids of Griffs and the Keel pleaseDoes this anti-beta count?
Sickening levels of power notwithstanding, he starts with his hand halfway along the roof and seems to have his foot on the floor for the first couple of moves. Back around.
Chris says hi
More alternative beta. Go shoeless on the right foot, hook the pocket with your toes. Solves the irritating foot cam crux.
Quote from: Will Hunt on September 26, 2018, 12:43:42 pmSickening levels of power notwithstanding, he starts with his hand halfway along the roof and seems to have his foot on the floor for the first couple of moves. Back around.Noticeably padless floor though. Got to get points for that. What are the 'rules' for where your hands start? He has them in the break/pockets at the back doesn't he?I can't even fathom that sequence. Its repulsive.