UKBouldering.com

Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018 (Read 11050 times)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 23, 2018, 08:22:29 pm
M: Work

T: Work

We: Quick session at Anston with Dolly. Apprentice wall. Worked Rookie and variations - until my hands hurt too much. Dolly got the cookie (excellent) - Rookie seems really hard for 7A+

Th: Childcare

Fri: Good 90 min at the Depot - worked a few purples and felt suitably worked at the end of it all.

Sa: Childcare

Su: Lovely day - got up to Blackstone Edge. Cool temps, cold rock, decent wind and autumnal sunshine. Wow - weird to be on the grit after 4-5 months off... you can get away with putting your foot on nearly anything :D  Took a while to get back in the swing of things, but managed to repeat three 7A’s (Lushering, Mikes Arête and Home impr RH) which I was pretty pleased with for my first ‘acclimatisation’ session on grit in a while...

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#1 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 23, 2018, 08:56:25 pm
11.2-3 Average 156.8 up 0.5lbs on last week

M.Morning. Tor. Coaxed out by Basher.  8) Warm and humid. Bit condensed. Led Tin Of clean twice. Refamiliarised myself with crux of Sardine then led it clean

T. Noon. Mina called in sick so no Malham  :( . Went to Tor midday. Warm and humid despite on crag wind. Tried Bens. Got through to falling on kick move on 6th and 7th! attempts. A couple of micro beta suggestions for the kick move from Sam W and Chesterfield Kev that I’ll experiment with next time

W.

T. Noon. Malham on fri cancelled as forecast was terrible. In a fug but as there was no need to rest up I headed out to Tor. Mimi, Jerome and Pirate Sam there. Was ok on Bens despite continuous downpour. Even dogs stayed dry Decided to spend the whole session working on maintaining the tension coming out of the kneebar to do the karate kick move which is currently blocking progress and the difference between doing it and not doing it seems entirely random and there is so much going on with the move that it was difficult to isolate a single thing I was doing wrong. The micro beta tips didn’t work. Managed to do the move 4x including twice in a row. No change in sequence but some changes in focus and emphasis gave it a more consistent replicable feel. Still hard - Jerome couldn’t do it after he pronounced the start to first kneebar font6B+  :look: Think warmed and fresh I should now be able to get through this move from the start every other time now. The way I do it is with kneebar in stretch out with RH to crimp edge dangle right leg LH to painful slot and crimp it for extra pain Right toe on pinch hold at right side then focus on pressing harder on it as kneebar is being released to transfer weight which seems to naturally engage left shoulder then once knee out and weight transferred kick out to niche with left foot.

F.

S. Afternoon. Systems board. Was going to do an AnCap sess but felt strong warming up so tried some hard moves. Did benchmark mirror crimp problem back to back at third attempt (first time doing this?) then did big undercut move on front3 for first time  ;D . Did the PE link just once then time to go. Forecast changed for better for tomorrow so canned planned fb sess.

S. Noon. Tor. Felt knackered so late start. Tried Bens. Got to meet bigironhorse  :wave: After warming up did moves from kneebar to karate kick successfully 3x. Took 5 goes to get to first kneebar rest from start. When I did I set myself up badly with left foot in wrong place in kneebar which meant I couldn’t reach slot with LH - tried to adjust foot but came off - had 30secs rest then did first kneebar to top even reeling it in when I cut loose on THFML. Happy with that  Went home.
Eve.  Decent fingerboard sessmion then I set of assisted 1armers 3 on right 2 on left. 6x125kg deadlifts

Had to keep changing Malham plans this week which was frustrating. However, some positives. Got to climb with Tor legend Basher for first time at the Tor and Sonia got accepted to run the Boston Marathon next year (not the Lincolnshire one this time). Made progress on Bens  ie overlapping halves with a short rest. Got some good life tips and a smoked trout from lagerstarfish.  :2thumbsup:

There is a good chance that the Oak will dry out this week. Booked to climb at Tor with Keith on tuesday and Nick on Thurs. Hopefully complete on a house sale on friday.
 
« Last Edit: September 23, 2018, 11:07:26 pm by shark »

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
#2 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 08:42:12 am
M:

T: Arch. Still feeling a bit under the weather but decided to go anyway. Did a number of problems before playing on the 50, moonboard and campus board. Almost did 1-4-7. Made up a cool new project on the 50 - need to be feeling fighting fit to do it. Did some more benchmarks on the moonboard - 6A+, 3 6C, 6C+. Finished off by doing back physio

W:

T: Arch. Feeling 80%. Warmed up on some new problems before getting on the 50. Made progress on project - tensiony cut-loose crux. Also created another project which is mint. Moved onto the moonboard and tried to tick some of the BMs. Had 11 of 91 6A+ to 6C+ BMs remaining. Managed Bilder Im Kopf 6C and C-Curve 6C+ which were both really good, but nails. More like 7A/7A+... Finished with back physio

F:

S: Blackwell Dale. Started on Paint it Black, just about dry. Failing on same moves as last time - couldn't do third move. Need to come back with stronger fingers. Did Jerry's Traverse Reverse 7A+ and tried Lack of Colour for a bit
Raven Tor. Re-learned the moves of Weedkiller then did the Extension 7B - 18 moves! Then repeated THFML 6C
Finished the day with a quick trip to Froggatt and a play on Ape Drape - this thing is really hard so I sacked it

S: Stanage Plantation - good connies in the shade! Did Zippy's Traverse 7B, finally. Minor YYFY. Basically did it last year but had a minor dab so dropped off, good to put it to bed. Then went up to Green Traverse and did Ron's Reach 7A - such a big reach for me! Then went and did Twister 7B which had some really cool moves. Too hot for Brass Monkeys so went to look at Buckstone Dyno. Worked out the movement but a long way off...

Good weekend, and so good to be back on the grit. Plan is to start max hangs this week for the next few months - going to try one arm - weight but if it tweaks my wrist I'll switch to two hands + weight

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#3 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 09:24:51 am
M rest, full shoulder and hip stretches. 10 mins core

T
Diverted to the Tor after cornice found to be fucked
Mate went on Little Boots so I decided to do A Little Extra, took a couple of goes which was a waste of a turn really.
He decided to leave at 1, thought about scrounging a belay to try The Flushings but instead headed to Griffs to try Bovine

About the sixth time I pulled on and put the heel-toe in there was a loud crack and a lot of pain from the inside of my knee.  Initially had visions of ruptured Cruciate Ligament but fortunately after a few minutes I was able to weight it and hobble out.  Back home diagnosed it as a tear of the semitendonosous (one of the hamstring group) at the attachment point at the knee.

And there you go, last mention of Griffs from me this year.

W Rest, Ice, Elevation. Shoulder massage and stretches.

Th Fingerboard - 10s hangs and some one legged TRX, few planks, etc

Fri fingerboard AnCap workout 5x7s on. Felt ridiculously easy to start but was digging in by the sixth set.
some conditioning stuff, can't remember exactly.

S rest, shoulder massage & mobililty

Sun - as Thursday, minutely better scores.

Knee/leg much improved but still limping and no chance of climbing properly yet.  Wasn't so bad looking out at the rain last week but might be a bit harder given this weeks forecast.  Also means I can't do my hip & leg stretches so can feel my back complaining too.  Will keep up the hanging and TRX and possibly try autobelays later in the week.

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2931
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#4 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 09:34:53 am
Will keep up the hanging and TRX and possibly try autobelays later in the week.

I've decided to try to improve my pitiful shoulder strength and just started to give TRX a go.  Any exercises you recommend?  I've tried long rows, prone / reverse Ts and Ys and they seem to make the appropriate places ache.

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#5 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 09:49:22 am
Commiserations Nai.

Rehab Diaries week 5. STG- leading routes and carrying normal loads to the crag by this time next year.

M- Rest. Still knackered from toprope heroics on Saturday.

Tu- Rest.

W- Gym. 30 minutes on bike (more resistance than last session as usual) plus one-legged unstable balancing/ semi-squats before and after. I can do this on my bad leg without touching the wall now. :dance1:

Th- Rest.

F- Rest.

Sa- Trip up to Heptonstall to take photos. As my mate racked up for the Thin Red Line I set up an ab rope to shoot from. Descending this made me realise that I need to "walk before I can run" with abseiling- absolutely terrified when all my weight was on the rope and couldn't entertain the thought of hanging there calmly taking photos. At the end of the day I seconded Fairy Steps (quarried grit's answer to Bosigran's Doorpost!) which was hard and stressful but I did it clean and even "led" the last bit of ledge-hopping -creaking to the top as my partner had sensibly belayed lower down to watch me. Really enjoyed this.

Su- Paparazzi-mission to Stanage. Since I've been mobile I've got quite into this. You go to a busy crag that you can see the routes from the top of and snap pictures of unsuspecting climbers then offer to email them the results after they top out. It's always fun but a bit like fishing- sometimes you come home with good stuff, sometimes a few tiddlers or even nothing. This time was a good haul, partly because I'm quicker and more mobile than before- I did a lot of scrambling up and down and I swear I got much better at it during the course of the afternoon. Seems good for my back to carry camera stuff too.

Good weekend. Knackered now!

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
#6 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 10:26:18 am
Commiserations Nai.

Rehab Diaries week 5. STG- leading routes and carrying normal loads to the crag by this time next year.

M- Rest. Still knackered from toprope heroics on Saturday.

Tu- Rest.

W- Gym. 30 minutes on bike (more resistance than last session as usual) plus one-legged unstable balancing/ semi-squats before and after. I can do this on my bad leg without touching the wall now. :dance1:

Th- Rest.

F- Rest.

Sa- Trip up to Heptonstall to take photos. As my mate racked up for the Thin Red Line I set up an ab rope to shoot from. Descending this made me realise that I need to "walk before I can run" with abseiling- absolutely terrified when all my weight was on the rope and couldn't entertain the thought of hanging there calmly taking photos. At the end of the day I seconded Fairy Steps (quarried grit's answer to Bosigran's Doorpost!) which was hard and stressful but I did it clean and even "led" the last bit of ledge-hopping -creaking to the top as my partner had sensibly belayed lower down to watch me. Really enjoyed this.

Su- Paparazzi-mission to Stanage. Since I've been mobile I've got quite into this. You go to a busy crag that you can see the routes from the top of and snap pictures of unsuspecting climbers then offer to email them the results after they top out. It's always fun but a bit like fishing- sometimes you come home with good stuff, sometimes a few tiddlers or even nothing. This time was a good haul, partly because I'm quicker and more mobile than before- I did a lot of scrambling up and down and I swear I got much better at it during the course of the afternoon. Seems good for my back to carry camera stuff too.

Good weekend. Knackered now!
Commiserations Nai.

Rehab Diaries week 5. STG- leading routes and carrying normal loads to the crag by this time next year.

M- Rest. Still knackered from toprope heroics on Saturday.

Tu- Rest.

W- Gym. 30 minutes on bike (more resistance than last session as usual) plus one-legged unstable balancing/ semi-squats before and after. I can do this on my bad leg without touching the wall now. :dance1:

Th- Rest.

F- Rest.

Sa- Trip up to Heptonstall to take photos. As my mate racked up for the Thin Red Line I set up an ab rope to shoot from. Descending this made me realise that I need to "walk before I can run" with abseiling- absolutely terrified when all my weight was on the rope and couldn't entertain the thought of hanging there calmly taking photos. At the end of the day I seconded Fairy Steps (quarried grit's answer to Bosigran's Doorpost!) which was hard and stressful but I did it clean and even "led" the last bit of ledge-hopping -creaking to the top as my partner had sensibly belayed lower down to watch me. Really enjoyed this.

Su- Paparazzi-mission to Stanage. Since I've been mobile I've got quite into this. You go to a busy crag that you can see the routes from the top of and snap pictures of unsuspecting climbers then offer to email them the results after they top out. It's always fun but a bit like fishing- sometimes you come home with good stuff, sometimes a few tiddlers or even nothing. This time was a good haul, partly because I'm quicker and more mobile than before- I did a lot of scrambling up and down and I swear I got much better at it during the course of the afternoon. Seems good for my back to carry camera stuff too.

Good weekend. Knackered now!

Nice one Cheque, sounds like you're coming on remarkably quickly.  Great idea on the pap mission, wish I had more photos of some of the (mainly routes) stuff I've done. One of my favourite shots of me is one on Chequer's Buttress where just that happened - guy snapped me and asked if I wanted him to email me the photo.





cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#7 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 10:49:32 am
Nice one Cheque, sounds like you're coming on remarkably quickly. 

Yeah, it's bonkers. It'll be six months since the accident on Thursday and so much is back to normal. I follow lots of other people who've had massive climbing accidents on Instagram and quite a few, despite working as hard as I am to recover, have had setbacks that have resulted in further operations etc. I'm so lucky.  Physio appointment on Thursday so I'll hopefully get clearance to do some more varied exercises at the gym.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#8 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 11:34:07 am
Commiserations Nai.


Su- Paparazzi-mission to Stanage. Since I've been mobile I've got quite into this. You go to a busy crag that you can see the routes from the top of and snap pictures of unsuspecting climbers then offer to email them the results after they top out. It's always fun but a bit like fishing- sometimes you come home with good stuff, sometimes a few tiddlers or even nothing. This time was a good haul, partly because I'm quicker and more mobile than before- I did a lot of scrambling up and down and I swear I got much better at it during the course of the afternoon. Seems good for my back to carry camera stuff too.


Cheers.

Effort for doing this, the few times this has happened to me it's been much appreciated.

Glad to hear you're making such good progress in your recovery.  Keep putting the work in.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2818
  • Karma: +159/-4
#9 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 12:14:18 pm
Nice one cheque, not surprised sitting on an abseil rope felt a bit out there but everything else you've tried has gone swimmingly! I must get down to Heptonstall soon.

Bad luck Nai. Funny how the initial crack is often not as bad as the actual injury. I fell out of the footlock on Crusis without a spotter over the winter and the crack from my ankle was so loud I thought I'd left my foot in the break!

M - rest.

T - Depot. Really hungry and had forgotten my wallet so couldn't buy any flapjack! Climbing terribly so sacked it off in favour of a core session. After a long time away this felt completely desperate; couldn't touch even basic exercises.

W - Core in pieces! Went to Caley after work and tried Psycho above some pads. Good to get this done given conditions weren't brilliant. The direct start looks good, as do Adrenaline Rush and Marrow Bone Jelly. Would like to check these on a rope though I think!

T - Depot. Climbed much better and again finished off with some core work. Going to try and make a habit of this as its always a weakness of mine. Considerably better than Tuesday already; making gains is easy when you're weak as piss in the relevant area...

F - rest. family up to visit so meal out and a few drinks.

S - dog walking around Malham.

S - Almscliff in the afternoon. Weird weather with lots of rain, lots of sun and only good conditions towards the end. Tried The Keel again and got back to where I was falling off last winter. This is so bloody hard when you can't reach the chip from the back. Also tried Pistol Whip but got too warm on the right hand sidepull. Great problem; will go when its cold I think.


nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#10 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 12:53:38 pm
Will keep up the hanging and TRX and possibly try autobelays later in the week.

I've decided to try to improve my pitiful shoulder strength and just started to give TRX a go.  Any exercises you recommend?  I've tried long rows, prone / reverse Ts and Ys and they seem to make the appropriate places ache.

Is that anything to do with your Lattice assessment  :-\  Did Tom manage to work you out?

I guess a good starting point is the Lattice stuff:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=28468.0



And the form disclaimer:



Form is really important when you're doing this stuff: Glutes tight, Abs tucked, shoulders engaged, neck long.  Start with low intensity, high rep work and build up. Maybe even film yourself so you can check your form and see if your back's arching or shoulders shrugging.

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2931
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#11 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 02:37:19 pm
Cheers fella, the tragic state of my shoulders has caused a lot of aches and pains over the years (and so, so much money spent on physios).  But, yes, my Lattice assessment is the prompt behind me wanting to do something pro-active about the issue (re the overall results of the "blind" assessment.... Tom is currently putting something together). 

Thank you for the advice on filming and video links.  I think it will be prudent to adjust the difficulty downwards until I get the form completely right - no sense in risking causing more problems by being too hasty to make gains.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#12 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 03:03:03 pm
S - Almscliff in the afternoon. Weird weather with lots of rain, lots of sun and only good conditions towards the end. Tried The Keel again and got back to where I was falling off last winter. This is so bloody hard when you can't reach the chip from the back. Also tried Pistol Whip but got too warm on the right hand sidepull. Great problem; will go when its cold I think.

You wot? Even Nathaniel can reach the chip and he's so short he's got a Blue Badge for it.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#13 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 03:24:10 pm
I think it will be prudent to adjust the difficulty downwards until I get the form completely right - no sense in risking causing more problems by being too hasty to make gains.

Very wise, tortoise pace will get you further, faster in this case.
I got in to Calisthenic type stuff last year and have become a bit of a form-bore but when you're trying to tighten your glutes, suck in your belly, take the arch out of your back, engage shoulders and lengthen your neck, it's quite easy while you're concentrating on one of those for others to go awry. Also be prepared to reduce the number of reps you can boosh out, I could do about 30 pressups just hammering them out but that came down to eight when doing them "right". Did 12 this morning before form went astray which made me happier than is should have

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#14 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 03:41:46 pm
M- nothing DOMS
T-nothing worse DOMS
W - DOMS. Easy bouldering session at wall. I think i landed awkwardly off something as i was trying not to hurt legs because of DOMS. Went to bed with sore hips / lower back.
T - slightly less worse DOMS, and sore hips lower back. Declined YOGA.
F - just about walking normally.
S - Wall session with son. Both did well, he's reaching a point where he's suitably enthused to do things by himself. I managed a few of the new probs. 13k bike, followed by 4.5k run. Felt OK.
S - short coastal session while kids at a party. Nice conditions - cool air and warm sun.

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#15 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 03:52:53 pm
S - Almscliff in the afternoon. Weird weather with lots of rain, lots of sun and only good conditions towards the end. Tried The Keel again and got back to where I was falling off last winter. This is so bloody hard when you can't reach the chip from the back. Also tried Pistol Whip but got too warm on the right hand sidepull. Great problem; will go when its cold I think.

You wot? Even Nathaniel can reach the chip and he's so short he's got a Blue Badge for it.

:lol: Nathaniel most certainly can't reach the chip from the back. And yes it is significantly harder when you can't.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2575
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#16 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 03:54:10 pm
S - Almscliff in the afternoon. Weird weather with lots of rain, lots of sun and only good conditions towards the end. Tried The Keel again and got back to where I was falling off last winter. This is so bloody hard when you can't reach the chip from the back. Also tried Pistol Whip but got too warm on the right hand sidepull. Great problem; will go when its cold I think.

You wot? Even Nathaniel can reach the chip and he's so short he's got a Blue Badge for it.

You can go out to the slopey crimp on the lip about 0.5m right of the chip with your right hand instead, it's a bit closer. Also where you have your feet at the back makes a lot of difference.

More beta interrupting the old men physio training diary thread  :offtopic:

I'm surprised you can't reach Nathaniel, I thought we were a similar height.

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#17 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 04:31:31 pm
I think I'm 170 with ~173 reach. If I took my glasses off, faced a certain way, and didn't use the footlock, I could pull on with my hand on the chip. But I certainly couldn't climb into (or out of) that position.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2818
  • Karma: +159/-4
#18 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 04:40:41 pm

You can go out to the slopey crimp on the lip about 0.5m right of the chip with your right hand instead, it's a bit closer. Also where you have your feet at the back makes a lot of difference.


Yep, thats my current sequence. I currently get that with my left foot in the lock, then right foot pocket, left heel on keel, left hand chip...then lay one to the pocket I presume! Feels solid at the grade that way!

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2575
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#19 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 04:43:40 pm
Ah right, I just smear on the pillar bit rather than any foot lock action, that may explain reach difference.

In some ways it’s easier getting crimpnwith RH as you don’t have to match in the chip.

Once you’ve got left hand in chip you can turn left heel to toe hook to control swing out.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#20 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 04:48:16 pm

You can go out to the slopey crimp on the lip about 0.5m right of the chip with your right hand instead, it's a bit closer. Also where you have your feet at the back makes a lot of difference.


Yep, thats my current sequence. I currently get that with my left foot in the lock, then right foot pocket, left heel on keel, left hand chip...then lay one to the pocket I presume! Feels solid at the grade that way!

With the toe lock, I find a flat shoe helps, and when you're looking at it from the position you're in, I always have to aim for a little further back than it appears. When your foot goes in, you should be able to almost sit on it - your foot twists and it's incredibly bomber. I find getting it right like this is critical.

When you've got the chip in your left hand and the left heel is on, move your right hand out to a vague bit on the lip. It doesn't really look like anything, but you want to go full-crimp on it. That is also critical for me in making the slap to the pocket.

Never done the left foot toe drag but it sounds like good beta. Putting the heel hook behind the fin always felt like it was just giving the left foot something to do.

andy popp

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#21 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 04:51:05 pm
Went to Caley after work and tried Psycho above some pads. Good to get this done.

Out of interest, what Font grade does Psycho get?

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2818
  • Karma: +159/-4
#22 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 04:53:17 pm
Accidental dupe of message...
« Last Edit: September 24, 2018, 04:58:57 pm by spidermonkey09 »

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2818
  • Karma: +159/-4
#23 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 04:54:49 pm

When you've got the chip in your left hand and the left heel is on, move your right hand out to a vague bit on the lip. It doesn't really look like anything, but you want to go full-crimp on it. That is also critical for me in making the slap to the pocket.

Never done the left foot toe drag but it sounds like good beta. Putting the heel hook behind the fin always felt like it was just giving the left foot something to do.

The vague bit on the lip is what my right hand is already on before i get left hand on the chip; its not too bad a hold to be fair. Interestingly when I was trying it over the winter I found i had to crimp it or I couldn't do any more moves. Yesterday I was really weak fully crimping it but it felt fine dragging it. A summer of sport climbing perhaps!

Stubs: actually you're right, once I've got the lip I haul my foot out of the lock and onto the pillar before putting RF in the pocket.

I think the left heel on the keel is fairly integral for me; without it I wouldn't be able to release my left hand to go for the chip.  Flat shoe is the way; might have to dig my shit blancos out for that foot!

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2818
  • Karma: +159/-4
#24 Re: Klubo Potenco 447 17 - 23 settembre 2018
September 24, 2018, 04:58:05 pm

Out of interest, what Font grade does Psycho get?

I reckon about 6b+/6c, ish? Once you get the first good foothold on the chicken head it eases off considerably as you get considerably higher. Just basic crimping and rockovers in the top half.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal