[tomtom]

M: bank holiday drive back from Norfolk

T: Work - some fingerboarding in the evening

We: Griffs - decent session - made progress on Ovine (daring to slap up for the top crimp) decided dropped knees on Mint Sauce are not going to suite my body geomettry despite repeated efforts.

Th

Fr: Griffs - crap session No oomph. Really had to work it - could not even match the slopers on Ovine (just felt wrong/not strong enough). Found some solace in working some wacky moves to LH Bovine/Original Bovine/Griffs thingy...

Sa: 9 am departure, 9:30 pm return from a day trip to Alton Towers with the 2yo and friends (inc other toddlers). Shattered

Su: Aimed to try and go out for an hour or two but still fecked from sat...

[Fiend]

What did you get on at Alton Towers?? Sky, Nemesis and Oblivion all mint. Went on Smiler twice before the crash, was the business.

[tomtom]

What did you get on at Alton Towers?? Sky, Nemesis and Oblivion all mint. Went on Smiler twice before the crash, was the business.

We spent 3 hours before lunch in CBeebies land - 30-40 min ques there... then the children fell asleep after lunch and I managed to go on nemesis (shortest ques of the lot) and then back to CBeebies via the aquarium managing to cane the postman pat ride 3 times in a row before it shut....
#differentworld :D

[webbo]

Is the postman Pat the old post man Pat or the new one who does delivery’s in a helicopter.

[tomtom]

Is the postman Pat the old post man Pat or the new one who does delivery’s in a helicopter.

Hard to tell. It looked largely old school but also featured Ted fixing pats helicopter....

[Kingy]

decided dropped knees on Mint Sauce are not going to suite my body geomettry despite repeated efforts.

Did you try the left heel method as per my video (the last problem). Also, you would be tall enough for the knee bar way - your left toe goes on the next good foothold up from the one you dropknee. Its high up but easy to get your foot on if you pull on with your right foot on a foothold down and left of the starting handholds (the same one I use in the vid to get my heel up). You're knee will be long enough, mine wasn't. Once you get the bar in, its almost a rest! 7B+ this way I understand!

[Sasquatch]

Good week overall,

M- Good MB Session - Managed to tick off two 7C+/8Aish problems, then 6-7C's.
T- Mountain Bike 2 hrs
W- Long outside session in Hatcher Pass.  Did quite a few new lines.  Started by cleaning/recleaning something that was likely done by someone long ago, but about which there is no knowledge.  Did 6 new problems up to v4 (https://www.instagram.com/p/BnFuhm3HXHT/?taken-by=sasquatch.ak).  Then went up to an old semi-highball v5 (https://www.instagram.com/p/BnHvFtNnyAm/?taken-by=sasquatch.ak ) put up about 6 years ago and did that and a another line to the right that was also about v5.  Then up to another new boulder cleaned the day before by a friend.  We managed 4 new lines on this one up to v6 (https://www.instagram.com/p/BnPADasnWeu/?taken-by=sasquatch.ak).  Then up to a new v10 ( https://www.instagram.com/p/BnK9HcXH_KZ/?taken-by=sasquatch.ak )

T- Terrible nights sleep followed by an 11 hour work day
F- Another terrible nights sleep (again due to daughters seizures). Attempted to MB, but was exhausted.  Felt ok at first and managed to 7C and a 7C+, then went to complete crap.  Lateral epicondylitis started to flair (too much pinching on the MB ).
S- Finally a decent nights sleep, Mountain bike 2.5 hrs. work on elbow
S- Rest, work on elbow. Get ahead on work so I can go back up to play tomorrow.

[tomtom]

Cheers Ted - couldn’t get the left heel to work - but I was having an off ish day... probably have another try tomorrow... (and the knee bar)

[cheque]

STG- Leading routes and carrying normal loads to the crag by end of next September.

Gym closed for refurb all week. I wish I’d have known this before signing up as I could have just joined another cheap “Globogym” place instead.

M- Walking round Meadowhall. Most walking I’d done since ditching the crutch, with lots of stairs. Sore back after.

T- Rest.

W- Filming in the evening. ~15-20 minutes walk in/out with ~4-5kg of gear (steep slope involved too), then couple of hours filming. I’m mainly handholding the camera on this project which is a workout for my back! Easier than the last time I did this a few weeks ago.

Th- Rest. Encouraged by not feeling too tired.

F- Foundry autobelays. Turns out Friday night before a dry weekend is a quiet time to go. I guess those of us who are dedicated are saving themselves for the weekend and everyone else has better things to do. 

Did two 4s and a 5 three times each then got going on the 5+ I was determined to do. Turns out high up there’s a move off your left leg that I simply can’t do at the moment. Three tries.

Went back to the main room to cool down on the 4s but tried a 6a+ in the hope it didn’t have a left leg move on it. Sadly it did and also had a hold that hurt my hand on it.

Had to remind myself that I’m climbing as a form of rehab rather than to perform at the moment.

Sa- Walk at the Roaches- parked (and fuelled-up) at the tea rooms, went up the road to Roaches Gate, out to the last bouldering on the Skyline then back along the top, over to Hen Cloud and back down. Easily the furthest I’ve done since ditching the crutch and Hen Cloud was hard. Sore back & hip after & very tired in evening.

Su- Very tired. Amble around Castleton.

Seems I did a lot (for someone in my condition) this week. Everything’s rehab still really, just need to keep at the Goldilocks level.

[shark]

11.1 155.2 average up 1.1lbs on last week   

M.

T. AM Cornice out with Guy. Cloudy and about 17degrees. MM tr to warmup. Teamed up with Mick B and Joe on Roof Warrior. 3 goes up. One working go when it felt greasy and two good redpoints tickling the undercut off the rail. Next time will crimp rather than drag the rail. Felt wrecked after as usual. 

W.

T.

F. AM. Cornice with Pete "Early Start" Hart. 11 degrees! Felt greasy again on warm go but ok thereafter. First redpoint got a bad part of the rail so had to do some adjustment then went for move and tickled pocket. Second go more tired so rested on the kneebar longer but lost tension trying to matcgh the rail. Decided to finish strong as a successful redpoint seemed off the cards and I wanted to avoid needing two full rest days again. Gutted. Had set myself the goal of doing this within two sessions after last week. Impressed and pissed off in equal measure that Guy did this in 4 sessions and I’m already on session 5. Also dawned on me that it is hardly great training for the Oak.
Eve. Board session on Oak replica problems. Not too shoddy. Ultimate aim to do them back to back

S. PM Noon. Some Oak type throws and hard undercutting on systems board Then 2x20/10’s (aerocap)

S. AM. Sunny. Tor. Out with Steve – Mimi already on Bens when we got there. Worked on set up for karate kick move yet again– found that it seems to help when I slow the move down dropping my right knee slightly. Climb Slower tm. Didn’t get through start moves. Too hot really. Stopped strong. Apparently colder tomorrow so will head back then.

Have been feeling run down over the last few weeks with a bit of weight gain over the last couple of weeks I seem to have regained some vim over last couple of days. Going to transfer my allegiances from Cornice back to the Tor. I'll give Roof Warrior another go when I stop sulking about it. Malham forecast still not sufficiently enticing.   

[nai]

M
AM 10x1 min HI AeroCap
PM Repeaters, felt hard.

T AnCap. Same circuit I'd done the day before going on holiday. Before holiday I completed 11/12 reps but this time I only completed 5/12 despite slightly longer rest times 

W rest

Th AnCap. Different workout but felt slightly better

Fri 3x10 mins LI AeroCap

S set out to do AeroPow but intensity might have been a bit low so borderline HI AeroCap.  Fairly decent workout either way.

S rest

[spidermonkey09]

T - rest after Wales

W -  still resting.

T - back to Gordale. Nicki clipped the belay on Supercool just as I came around the corner! Had a couple of goes and was pleased to get straight back up to the crux after a few weeks off it.

F - rest.

S - Gordale. Matt blasted straight past my high point on his warm up go before ticking it next go, despite doing the crux sequence entirely wrong! Bastard (good effort though). Had four redpoints, got better as I went. Felt totally in the zone on my second go and almost forgot to try when it got tricky; it was feeling so easy up to that point. Highpoint was getting right hand in sidepull on Cave Route Left and fell bringing feet across. Skipped clip ensured some good airtime. Felt close.

S - Gordale again. Tom too ill to climb but manfully belayed all day; thanks mate! Three redpoints, higher each time. Last go of the day got feet across into Cave Route but had nothing left in the tank to do another move. Fuck sake. Very frustrating.

Exceptional fitness training on Supercool but no tick to show for it. Weather looks a bit average this week but think the route should escape as there isn't a deluge forecast after today. Got to keep the faith as I can't be far away. Back this weekend, until it gets done!

[Coops_13]

M: Anstey's Cove. Did Empire of the Sun 7b/+, 2nd RP. First go came off the top jugs
T:
W: Run to Arch without stopping - 1.3km in 6.5 mins. Weak session at the Arch, either weak from the run or from a slight illness caught from a work colleague. Spent some time on the board and finished off the green (V6 - 8 ) that I tried last time. Last ever session at Biscuit...
T:
F: Arch. New B1 centre open. Verdict: They've added more slabs and verts but also one good barrel-shaped wall. The Campus board needs to be re-built - 22 degrees overhanging and the lowest rung has you with your knees on the floor - useless. It's 13 rungs high so no need to have it coming so low. Moonboard LEDs don't work. 50 is much smaller and a number of large holds on it. I'm sure it'll grow on me :S. Lots of new holds and new sticky wall paint meant thin skin but had a good session flashing lots of new problems and trying some harder ones
S: Helping my sister move house - lugging furniture around all day
S: Very poor session at Forest Rock - the climbing here is so weird. Got shut down on everything - almost did Sorcerer Arete Eliminate and Sorcerer - maybe next time

Not a lot of time to climb in the week ahead then off to Mallorca for a chilled week DWS. Psyched to train hard when I'm back!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - reacquainting session at 70%. Power clean 5x6; deadlift 5x5. Squat, reverse lunges, good mornings, bicep curls, abs.
Tue - 360 kms of turns! Dumbbell complex x5. Exhausted. Doms.
Wed - boxing bag, two EMOM sets of 8' with various combinations x10 each. Extreme. Must take it easy, can't keep this pace. Very hot again, 32 today. Awful.
Thu - rest.
Fri - ab wheel with full stretch pause, strong! Fingerboarding: front3 and back3 on Lattice, then on 1,5, then front2 and mid2 on 1,5. One arm RH on 9 mm, just one second but felt amazing  . Very happy. Good mornings, clean and press, snatch pulls EMOM set 5x5 30". Fuck yeah.
Sat - power clean EMOM set: 5x10'. Brutal.
Sun - overhead barbell walk 30" x10 (40 kg); farmer's 30" x10 (90 kg). Abs.
Good week!
Especially pleased about fingers.

[SA Chris]

M- rest after HM
T - walked a bit
W - intended a stretching run, but had a meeting. Bouldering session. felt OK, but toes really sore from running. Blasted though most of new probs on barrel section.
T - lunchtime trail run - slow 7k.
F - hill run, RoS training. Up Clachnaben via tourist path, then down side path to col with Mount Shade, up Mount Shade, then down to glen and back. 12 km, 700m of ascent. Amazing evening out, didn't see a soul, only dear, grouse and sheep. Was going to solo a route or two, but so windy at the top I could barely stand. Both descents are great, paths through heather peat, steep enough to be interesting, but not so steep you are having to slow down too hard. Recommended.
S - Nothing. In town with kids
S - Walk / cycle with kids. Session on monkey bars at park. Should have run in evening, but just couldn't be hooped.

[duncan]

“more slabs and verts” said Coops. New B1 sounds worth a visit  (Can’t believe no-one has pulled you up for Empire at 7b\+!)

STG - Manage aches and pains. Get on an E4 in the next month or so.   
MTG - A proper 7b+ this year.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; 5.13 at 60

M - Still battered from Pembroke
T - Brief fingerboard session
W - Shoulder stretches
T - Shoulder stretches
F - Bunked off work early, but not early enough to avoid epic traffic on the M1. Met Yossarian at Cressbrøok Mill Isn’t it a wonderful spot? I love the contrast between the idyllic scenery and the brutal climbing. First time here since a bitterly cold winter day in 1980 when I did Rubicon with Big Ron, then a peg protected E3 with a completely different set of holds. Just enough daylight remained to justify trying a route so warmed-up on the traverses then threw myself at Rubicon v2. Predictably, I flailed ignominiously. Perhaps also predictably, I twisted my knee (MCL sprain it you insist) attempting a weak person’s fudge. Game over for the weekend.
S - Niece’s 21st birthday party in Manchester. Limped around feeling very old. Drove back to London at silly O’Clock, still very slow due to roadworks and traffic jams in the small hours. How can this be?
S - Brief fingerboard session. Shoulder stretches. Shuffled around and ate.

Shoulder survived throwing myself at Rubicon with minimal warm-up. Fingerboarding is being tolerated. I can continue with this as my knee recovers, all good for long term progress.

Easy to see why I hurt my knee (too much driving, rushed warm-up, no recent climbing like this, weak quads. stiff hips, past injury). I had considered doing more lower leg strengthening even before this tweak. Historically I’m naturally strong here but I’m sensing effects of age.  I have less motivation  for this kind of thing than more obviously climbing-related training. The alternative - perhaps preferable - is to avoid monkeying around on steep rock and concentrate on what I’m best at: shuffling up vertical ledges!

Plan: knee rehab., continue shoulder rehab., fingerboard.

[tomtom]

@duncan

[Yossarian]

Just enough daylight remained to justify trying a route so warmed-up on the traverses then threw myself at Rubicon v2. Predictably, I flailed ignominiously. Perhaps also predictably, I twisted my knee (MCL sprain it you insist) attempting a weak person’s fudge. Game over for the weekend.

Read pretty solid up until the longish move out right on your bad shoulder? In gathering gloom. With excellent anecdotes in full flow...

In retrospect another venue might’ve been preferable.

[nai]

I had considered doing more lower leg strengthening even before this tweak. Historically I’m naturally strong here but I’m sensing effects of age.  I have less motivation  for this kind of thing than more obviously climbing-related training.

Sorry to hear this, can picture exactly how it happened making that move.

I'm resigned to doing self-massage and stretching at least five days per week and leg work at least once. I can skip a day and get away with it but go two and I can feel the tightness in the Glutes and the back starts to niggle. It's a pain but just has to be done.

EDIT: And be prepared to do your stretches/exercises anywhere you find yourself with time no matter how many strange looks you get.

[Murph]

Get well soon Duncan

Haven’t updated for a couple of weeks. In that time it’s been:

Two solid fingerboard sessions, both topping out at 3x +40kgs for 10s, which is “the standard”. It’s a long way behind my best though.

90 pull ups one week (6 x 3 x 5) and none the next.

A total of 10k of easy running (2 x 5).

3 kettlebell sessions.

In other words, I have really slacked off!

Also 4 trips to griffs to try Ovine. Man it is brick hard. I can pretty much flash/lap bovine and griffs/bovine (60% of the time it works every time) but then get shut down on the Ovine weirdness at the same grade. Some sessions I get past the two crimps only once, other sessions I have a few more goes. There’s plenty of beta on the internet but seeing isn’t doing.

This is a bit of a set back as the plan had been to flash ovine and then get stuck into 3 of the more challenging starts, all of which are 7C. They were supposed to have started going by now and I could be thinking about some of the 8As. It was a perfect plan.

One family session at Rubicon last Sunday. While there I realised I can no longer walk up even the 6s like debris grove. I also met an absolute beast who onsighted Three Tier Test Piece 7B. It was quite the thing to see.

Think perhaps I need to put a bit of structure into a training plan cos 7B really shouldn’t be this hard, it’s been a lot easier in the past.

[tomtom]

Ovine is weird.. hanging those slopey edges/crimps is a total head game for me. I have never greased off them - but every time I pull on my head is screaming BAIL.. getting super deep over the right heel is important for me - and good conditions help.

Anyway - I cant do the first move (no where close or remotely close) from the crossed hands position...

Why not work on Griffs? Working across the crimps on the face to Ovine from the slots on Bovine is good and I've been playing with that recently.. got rained off yesterday eventually...

[Murph]

Yeah I should work the griffs 7C traverse really. Just keep thinking one more go and ovine will get taken down. It’s a head game getting that left hold from the flag. Sometimes seems unlikely other times easy. Then have to get the aim right for the 3 finger crimp.

Crossed hands start - I don’t think you have to do that for tick. It’s not described like that in the guide or on peakbouldering anyway. And Measles23 didn’t do it that way so that’s the final word as far as I’m concerned.

Actually...just looked at measles vid. He doesn’t use that 3 finger crimp at all. I’m doinh it that way today.

[tomtom]

Yeah I should work the griffs 7C traverse really. Just keep thinking one more go and ovine will get taken down. It’s a head game getting that left hold from the flag. Sometimes seems unlikely other times easy. Then have to get the aim right for the 3 finger crimp.

Crossed hands start - I don’t think you have to do that for tick. It’s not described like that in the guide or on peakbouldering anyway. And Measles23 didn’t do it that way so that’s the final word as far as I’m concerned.

Interesting - nto seen this vid. Some points from when I've tried it that chime or not with the vid...

On the flag - when I get my LH up to the crimp relatively comfortably - my LF (the flagging one) feels like its dabbling/engaging with the rock fairly well rather than just flapping. Looking at Measles here - he's doing what I think I'm doing - getting some purchase or direction from that flagged foot rather than just hanging.

Also, I found it really helped going for the first sidepull thing with my RH - as that allowed me to adjust the heel slightly and get nicely set up for the throw for the crimp (ha ha - that I've still not held!!!). Lots of folk get the RH crimp then pinch the higher sidepull with the LH - the one that Measles is beasting with his RH.

[cofe]

In the vid he's using the old (better) undercut which broke off a few years ago.

[haydn jones]

I found an easier way than the sloper match. Go right hand again to the little sidepull pinch after putting the heel up. Then come into the sloper with left hand.

Just wanted to add some history on bovine too

bovine is not 7B using the sidepull out right before the jug. When it got written into the guide that hold didn't exist it was under ivy. me and Jon fullwood had to Dyno for the top with the right hand off the tiny crimps down and left hence 7B.

And further more the original bovine never went to the jug everyone goes to, it used to finish along Griff's hence why it used to be graded 7B+

That's probably why bovine and ovine don't feel the same grade 😊

[tomtom]

Cheers Haydn & Cofe - pb has 'original' Bovine listed there.. so knew about that but not the other stuff.

Interesting beta going again to the sidepull - though that is a way higher than the slopers #iamweak

I'll give it a blast. Though I quite enjoy the my hand will not pop headgame at the moment.. a classic 'trust and relax' move... which I'm shit at..

[haydn jones]

you go again once the heel is on. It is definitely easier this way

[Murph]

Thanks Haydn, fascinating. 

I wonder what the full bovine list would look like....

1. SS to large flat hold. Both hands in slot, RH to sidepull/pinch, jug finish. 7A?
2. SS...RH in slot, LH on crimp, RH to sidepull/pinch, jug finish. 7A+?
3. SS...to crimps and dyno to jug finish. 7B? Sounds brick hard for 7B. I think this is in Escaping Norfolk but RH was in slot and they took 7B+.
4. SS.... and go high into Ovine (that what’s meant by finishing along Griffs?). 7B+
5. SS.... and go low into Ovine. Lovine 7C. 

PLN really isn’t very helpful for working out where these things go as it looks like it is describing a further two lines that are distinct to the ones above. It gives Bovine as “...make a big move to a large flat hold. Finish slightly left (virtually on Ovine) on crimps.” So it finishes on crimps....but which crimps exactly? The picture doesn’t offer many clues as there aren’t any crimps where the arrow ends. And why would anyone end a problem there? Regardless, finishing on the jug is superior.

It also describes a “more independent finish gains the slot out right before finishing direct on crimps” 7B. So that’s with or without the slot out right and both finishing on independent crimps. I’ve no idea what this lot could mean and I’ve been there a dozen times!

And thanks for the Ovine beta. I can attest that that is much easier that way though no doubt also brings the grade down!

[haydn jones]

1. I would give 7A+
2&3 are eliminates/bad beta
4. Yes this is original ovine 7B+
5. My problem

[tomtom]

And thanks for the Ovine beta. I can attest that that is much easier that way though no doubt also brings the grade down!

Did you get on it today then murph?

[Murph]

Haydn - thanks, and cool problem. That’s next on the list. Well, maybe not next but quite high up.

TT - yeah man, just a social visit. Nearly got it. Next time etc. 

[measles23]

In the vid he's using the old (better) undercut which broke off a few years ago.

Well feck me that explains why I find it so brick now! You can see an extra block in the vid that’s gone..
This is still how I do it tho as I’m not fond of the flat crimp...

Haydn’s bob on with bumping right hand up to the little side pull, while LH still in the slot - that way you don’t have to do a move off the sloper, which is beginning to get polished..

Other possible beta:
1. With both hands on the slopers, go LH to the little side-pull, then up
2. LH sloper, RH little side-pull, lurch LH up to pinch the big undercut and RH to flatly crimp
3. LH sloper, RH little side-pull, RH up to pinch the big undercut, bump LH to side-pull, flick RH to undercut the undercut - top..

Also when things are greasy you can use the middle hold of the sloper complex, which is less polished..
Endless fun!

Yup been told off for not doing the first move before, although it’s about British 5A with the correct feet and seems a bit pointless..

Great history on bovine Haydn

[abarro81]

No 2 has the the option of a kneescum too for those inclined that way

[36chambers]

Just to add even more variation into the mix. I found it much easier to hold the high RH crimp on Ovine as a big fat pinch.

[Bradders]

After all that I'm only really clear on one thing; you all spend way too much time at Griff's... 

[duncan]

Thanks for the commiserations. The timing is a bit frustrating, but at least there is a clear mechanism, diagnosis, and a good outlook. It doesn’t stop me working on finger and upper-body strength which will reap benefits in the longer term.

I'm resigned to doing self-massage and stretching at least five days per week and leg work at least once. I can skip a day and get away with it but go two and I can feel the tightness in the Glutes and the back starts to niggle. It's a pain but just has to be done.

EDIT: And be prepared to do your stretches/exercises anywhere you find yourself with time no matter how many strange looks you get.

You're completely right of course, thanks for the nudge, I just have to do exactly this.