[Nibile]

Bonan matenon al čiuj!

Mon - rest. 36 degrees, FFS.
Tue - weights, getting back into it. New shoes!
Wed - weights, dumbbell complex: reverse lunges, lateral raises, presses, bicep curls, high pulls. Abs. A pool of sweat and testosterone.
Thu - ab wheel, paused pull ups, farmer's walk.
Fri - rest.
Sat - system lock off, new routine with final cut loose and match on top rung, 6x6. Rings, a few routines. Snatch pulls, forearm curls. Incredibly hot.
Sun - postural work.

[Coops_13]

M: Yoga
T: Arch. Arms felt better. Did a load of problems, a few harder flashes. Almost repeated old board project - feeling good. Slightly worse performance campusing than previously, approx 5mm off touching bottom of 8 on 1-5-8 attempt. Finished off with one set on the circuit board, one lap of yellow (2/4 easiest) into blue (1/4 easiest) into yellow (failed half way round this)
W:
T: Arch. New set, flashed most up to V6 then set to work on a hard V4-6 set. Had to fight hard to do it, probably more like V7. Such a good problem, psyched. Played around on the 50, almost repeated my old project for the first time, only to ping off the top. Finished with a set on the circuit - yellow into blue into yellow (failed 3/4 way round this)
F:
S; Ilkley - Tried Ringpiece 7B but couldn't do crux move, had a play on some eliminates and did the classic dyno before heading sport climbing
Giggleswick North, Hollywood Bowl - Warmed up bolt-to-bolting Jorjas Connection 7c and sent it 3rd RP as my first 7c YYFY. Probably soft but had to try hard on the boulder at the end
S: Kilnsey - Mate was trying WYSIWYG so looked for something nearby. Gave up on Fit of Peak 7c - too dirty. Dogged up and stripped Last Gasp Finish 7b - sore elbows

Good week, nice to do a 7c at the weekend. First week of new cut for Mallorca after 2 months of heavy eating and drinking. Scales say I dropped 1.1 kg in four days - must be my beer-saturated tissue releasing fluid 

[moose]

Giggleswick North, Hollywood Bowl - Warmed up bolt-to-bolting Jorjas Connection 7c and sent it 3rd RP as my first 7c YYFY. Probably soft but had to try hard on the boulder at the end
S: Kilnsey - Mate was trying WYSIWYG so looked for something nearby. Gave up on Fit of Peak 7c - too dirty. Dogged up and stripped Last Gasp Finish 7b - sore elbows

I've only done three routes at the Hollywood Bowl, all in the last few weeks, but I found the guidebook grading in near total disagreement with my own difficulties! Illywhacker (desperate!) >> Sunset Boulevard >~ Divine Brown = Divine Sunset.

[spidermonkey09]

M - rest

T - rest and pub

W- rest and pub

T - Gordale after work. Pretty good session on Supercool, two redpoint goes where I fell off below the pocket. Refined sequence a bit.

F - rest.

S - Malham. Back on Predator despite somewhat average conditions. Still a worthwhile session; did the starting moves for the first time as well as the sequence moving up from the flake at the end of the traverse. Cool sequence involving a heel which I lifted from the beta section here; thanks! Had a look at the linking section between the lower offs and found it utterly desperate. Tried Ted's beta and couldn't do it so resorted to the mono reluctantly and found I could do it, albeit with difficulty. Should be ok in good conditions but its weird climbing to that second lower off! No way is it as easy as everyone says; 7b?

S - Gordale. Back on Supercool; two crap redpoints where I fell off the lower crux. Nearly sacked it but had a good rest and waited for the shade and was rewarded with a new high point falling off having got the undercut tooth below the pocket. Also managed to get the crux clip in on the lead for the first couple of times and found some sneaky rests on the headwall which I suspect will prove useful.

Back to Gordale Thurs and Saturday. Hopefully be close after a few rest days...

[Murph]

Thanks nibs.

M-kettlebells
T-early morning arse whipping at beginners wall. MoS is easy now but I couldn’t make the AT link. I’m starting to feel like shark. Kettlebells and 5k run.
W-kettlebells
T-griffs worked griffs/bovine traverse. Thought it would go with 1 more try. 5k run.
F-kids
S-back to griffs. Nope, the traverse wasn’t going. Too many moves. Kettlebells.
S-kettlebells. Quick family boulder at Rubicon. Nothing much happening.

Kettlebell routine now up to 24kg so must be doing something right. But bouldering is stuck in reverse. Oh well it’s fun getting out but it was supposed to have come together by now.

[nai]

M
( AM - max hangs, was rubbish so started naval gazing and realised I'd been at my strongest (since records began) Spring 2015 after doing lots of 3/4 rep repeaters and adding in max hangs later so decided I should try that again (obviously studiously ignoring eveything else I was doing/not doing at the time that might have been a factor).

PM - 4 rep repeaters
Gymnastic shizzle - frog stands, hand stand prep, pressups, headstands on wobble disc

T
Too goosed for a morning session

PM AnCap, managed the usual circuit but failed 4 of 12 reps

W rest, 5km run AM

Th - back suffering, Glutes very tight.

AM Repeaters
PM LI AeroCap

Lots of spikey balling and stretching

F
AM - HI AeroCap on campus board (back too tweaky for steep board)
PM - Aim was AnCap but ended up doing something not quite intense enough.

Lots of spikey balling and stretching

SS
Lots of spikey balling and stretching first thing then again in teh evening with gentle walking in between, things eased up a lot on Sunday.

[36chambers]

S-back to griffs. Nope, the traverse wasn’t going. Too many moves. Kettlebells.

Glad you got your book back

[shark]

10.13-11.2 - Average 155.4lbs down 0.5lbs

M.

T. Cornice with Guy. Bon Con! Warmed up on MM. 5 redpoints on JJ. Each falling on the top crux higher than last session. Very close to getting undercut pinch twice. Should go next time

W.

Thurs - Mon. Gower with Zippy, Seb and pr0no Mark. Not been before and really impressed see   
here. Was muggy the first two days then just hot thereafter. Didn't have a game plan. Lots of new crags, and did 24 routes including 10 in the 7a to 7b range. Pretty shattered.


Whilst away did a lot of thinking about the Oak so was vulnerable to Mina's siren call when I came back so off to Malham with her on thursday. Hope the cloudy cooler forecast holds true.

Going to keep trying to developing a bouldering repertoire on Peak lime and build up the volume that way. Bit old skool but its a way of training that satisfies my need to get outside and fill my days. Will complement it with a bit of Oak specific indoor work