[tommytwotone]

To call Hart's Arete an arête is somewhat generous. Almost like a little Pex in-joke.

Not unlike South-west Overhang and North-west Overhang.

Or indeed Crucifix Arete at Almscliff, which climbs nothing like one, and come to think of it probably belongs on this list too.

[highrepute]

I can’t remember how I did it but I’m 5’7” and didn’t find banana finger direct hard. I did have someone pointing at holds and stuff though and I’m very inconsistent but it is unlikely that you’re not tall enough James.

Tiger at burbage south on the other hand. Maybe not deceiving enough for this thread but I must be doing it wrong. Only 6B I think but it has so far resisted every assault.

Could you reach from the left-hand crimp a la this bald fat guy...


Perhaps I should rephrase not tall enough to not strong enough  I have short arms (5'6)

[Monolith]

To call Hart's Arete an arête is somewhat generous. Almost like a little Pex in-joke.

South-west Overhang

Love this problem and remember doing it by lamplight with Crouchie. The Pex psyche is coming!

[Andy F]

Surely Rich can just give you his one-handed beta?

I've never done Harts the 'correct' way and did the one handed version instead as I found it easier 

[fatneck]

Love this problem and remember doing it by lamplight with Crouchy

Is that the night Crouchy uttered the immortal words "Andy who?" in response to BenF telling legends of Popp?

[r-man]

Just remembered. Tufa From Home at Dove Lowe. Fine once you know how, but until then it's desperate...

[36chambers]

The 6C mantle thing just left of Sulky Little Boys. Impossible.

[teestub]

The 6C mantle thing just left of Sulky Little Boys. Impossible.

The boss thing? Agree, looks like you should be able to casually pull on and reach the break, I’ve never succeeded.

[36chambers]

The 6C mantle thing just left of Sulky Little Boys. Impossible.

The boss thing? Agree, looks like you should be able to casually pull on and reach the break, I’ve never succeeded.

that's the one, I try it every time I'm there and can't touch it.

[duncan]

I am at a total loss as to how one does Banana Finger Direct as a more compact gentleman.

I've tried all manner of positions for the knee bar but can't get it to stick.

The key beta in 1980 was to wear a pair of Helly Hansen fibre pile trousers that enable for you to Velcro your thigh to the prickly underside of the roof (a long shin may also help).

[Stabbsy]

The 6C mantle thing just left of Sulky Little Boys. Impossible.

The boss thing? Agree, looks like you should be able to casually pull on and reach the break, I’ve never succeeded.

that's the one, I try it every time I'm there and can't touch it.

This one?

ykg11_008 by Neil Stabbs, on Flickr

Called Supple Wall in one of the guides I think. I have done it, but then failed spectacularly the last time I tried it.

[andy_e]

I had it wired for about 3 sessions (after umpteen failing on it) then have never been able to manage it since!

[36chambers]

This one?
...

Called Supple Wall in one of the guides I think. I have done it, but then failed spectacularly the last time I tried it.

Ah, I don't think I've ever tried putting a foot out there! Thanks for the beta.

[Murph]

I love lagers vids but don’t think I’ve ever copied his beta for obvious reasons! I have no memory of BF Direct other than I was being given the numbers by a mate who actually knows how to climb (taking one of them to the crag is a massive advantage!)

Ttt - you ever fancy a short arse BF session let me know.

[Murph]

Just looked up my BFD beta:

“Took about 5 attempts. It was all about the udge.”

Hopefully this is of use. I’m quite keen to get on it again when conditions allow. See if it still works.

[tomtom]

Lagers is strong... ultimate hustler :D