[AMorris]

Recently I have had a bit of a fetish for finding problems that are supposed to be difficult or awkward/knacky for the grade, or just tend to shut people down a lot. This is probably an ideal place to find such problems, so if there are any problems that perplexed you to the point of tears or laughter then post below.

Some of the ones that sprung to mind for me where:

The Egg Arete (Cratcliffe) - 6A. 20 minutes of the finest grit schooling money can't buy. Possibly my favorite boulder ever.

The Edges (Cromlech) - 6C. Sometimes this feels okay, sometimes it feels unclimbable, never feels easy.

Fear of a Slopey Planet (tick and sheep shit infested field in the pass) - 7A. Shut me down more than any of the grade ever has, my absolute antistyle. How does this get the same grade as Arse Soul or Cave route??.

Bread Pudding (Huntsham) - 5+. I love this problem so much, but until you find the proper sequence it's totally baffling.

[Fiend]

Egg Arete is lovely in winter conditions, grit in an eggshell.

Edge Problem is awful. The worst move in Wales trying to squidge your fingers into that slot. Cenotaph Corner crux is the second worst move in Wales.

I can't think of any off the top of my head but a good topic. Generally 90% of the ones I think are horrors turn out to be conditionsy morpho or just plain wrong (holds broken etc).

[AMorris]

Egg Arete is lovely in winter conditions, grit in an eggshell.

Edge Problem is awful. The worst move in Wales trying to squidge your fingers into that slot. Cenotaph Corner crux is the second worst move in Wales.

I can't think of any off the top of my head but a good topic. Generally 90% of the ones I think are horrors turn out to be conditionsy morpho or just plain wrong (holds broken etc).

Yeah totally, I loved every moment of teetering up the egg, the logbook page on the other site is worth a chuckle at though. The edge problem very much divides opinion I think! At times I love it, at other times it can do one.

I forgot Marie Rose too... nuff said with that one I think.

[tomtom]

Stall at Gib Tor... impossible 7A until you figure it out

[moose]

The Sheep at Burbage South? I remember it feeling really hard for f6c+, so thought there must be a knack.  Does Banana Finger Direct fit the bill... or is it just horrible?  Maybe Pebble Wall at Almscliff - I don't dare try to repeat it due to nightmares involving a snapped foot in the break (not a problem for the lanky).  I gather that Mr Smooth at Caley has a reputation for knackiness, though I've always found it pretty straightforward myself.

[AMorris]

The Sheep at Burbage South? I remember it feeling really hard for f6c+, so thought there must be a knack.  Does Banana Finger Direct fit the bill... or is it just horrible?  Maybe Pebble Wall at Almscliff - I don't dare try to repeat it due to nightmares involving a snapped foot in the break (not a problem for the lanky).  I gather that Mr Smooth at Caley has a reputation for knackiness, though I've always found it pretty straightforward myself.

Oh man good shout on pebble wall. That is a particular nemesis on mine, since Almscliff was the first place I ever tried climbing outdoors years ago, I tried that problem and, without thinking, whacked a heel toe in the break. Ofc my hands blew and I inverted and landed smack on my back right on that big rock below it. I was so winded I couldn't breathe properly for 2 hours! Grim...

[r-man]

Stall at Gib Tor... impossible 7A until you figure it out

Definitely. Also The Nose at Burbage - takes a bit of sussing if you can't do the reach.

And Triangular Wall at B.South. Very deceptive. Desperate if you try and climb it like grit. Easy once you climb it like limestone.

Over in Lancs - Soot Monkey start is notoriously tricksy. And Lifeline at Brownstones - always a potential shocker.

Oh, and Rodin's Requiem. Totally bewildering until you get it (or someone shows you).

[Doylo]

The Deceiver, Rhiw Goch.

[spidermonkey09]

Pebble Wall is a great shout. Absolutely desperate.

I actually like The Edge Problem, but I have very skinny fingers which helps a lot.

I've always found Strawberries at Curbar very awkward, couldn't do it for years and always fall off it when I'm back there.

[galpinos]

And Triangular Wall at B.South. Very deceptive. Desperate if you try and climb it like grit. Easy once you climb it like limestone.

Never managed it. Felt like the living end, even when I was in the form of my life.

[danm]

And Triangular Wall at B.South. Very deceptive. Desperate if you try and climb it like grit. Easy once you climb it like limestone.

Never managed it. Felt like the living end, even when I was in the form of my life.

Having tried and failed on it, I went back with some friends, one of which was a F8a limestone boulderer. We all came home empty handed once again.

[AMorris]

The Deceiver, Rhiw Goch.

Was considering this one, the first yank off the deck is pretty desperate

[mr chaz]

Stall at Gib Tor... impossible 7A until you figure it out

Never been more suprised to flash something 

[Eddies]

Headbanger at St Bees

[tomtom]

Do these problems include those where you know EXACTLY how to do it but....

IT. JUST. DOESNT. WORK.

???

[AMorris]

Do these problems include those where you know EXACTLY how to do it but....

IT. JUST. DOESNT. WORK.

???

Absolutely, Boysen's Groove sitter would be a prime example of this for me. Couldn't touch the move...

[Andy F]

Trick Arete, Earl. It might as well be 9dfucking+...

[r-man]

And Triangular Wall at B.South. Very deceptive. Desperate if you try and climb it like grit. Easy once you climb it like limestone.

Never managed it. Felt like the living end, even when I was in the form of my life.

Having tried and failed on it, I went back with some friends, one of which was a F8a limestone boulderer. We all came home empty handed once again.

I vaguely remember the trick is to jump around on the decent holds, rather than try and move around on the shit ones like a gritstone hero. Easy to get sucked in though.

Headbanger at St Bees

When did you try it? Isn't it unclimbable these days, since the nearby boulder moved?

[nai]

And Triangular Wall at B.South. Very deceptive. Desperate if you try and climb it like grit. Easy once you climb it like limestone.

Never managed it. Felt like the living end, even when I was in the form of my life.

Having tried and failed on it, I went back with some friends, one of which was a F8a limestone boulderer. We all came home empty handed once again.

I vaguely remember the trick is to jump around on the decent holds, rather than try and move around on the shit ones like a gritstone hero. Easy to get sucked in though.

From 1:45. Took a few visits, key for me was the foot scum/toe hooks under the rib on the right

[Eddies]

Headbanger at St Bees

When did you try it? Isn't it unclimbable these days, since the nearby boulder moved?

Last April... I hate s/s problems where the first move is big one with feet higher than your arse!
Almost glad it's gone

[mrjonathanr]

Black Russian at Pex.
The Arête at Higgar.

[r-man]

And Triangular Wall at B.South. Very deceptive. Desperate if you try and climb it like grit. Easy once you climb it like limestone.

Never managed it. Felt like the living end, even when I was in the form of my life.

Having tried and failed on it, I went back with some friends, one of which was a F8a limestone boulderer. We all came home empty handed once again.

I vaguely remember the trick is to jump around on the decent holds, rather than try and move around on the shit ones like a gritstone hero. Easy to get sucked in though.

From 1:45. Took a few visits, key for me was the foot scum/toe hooks under the rib on the right

Interesting. Think I did it like this, which felt about right at the grade.

[AMorris]

unsurprisingly plenty of decievingly hard grit lines floating about then!

I would add one of Wales' more grit like lines, Lordy Lordy up in the Meadow. Fairly horrifying moves, but what a problem

[finbarrr]

Can i mention Fontainebleau?

(The joker)

[Will Hunt]

The Rocking Groove at Caley.