[shark]

Weight 11.2-3  Average 157.2 up 0.4lbs

M.

T.Tor 7am start. Warm. Anger Management. Go 1 dogged to top Go 2 led htound to hole but didn’t get much back at rest and fell off using Nicks sequence. Rest then failed on it again. Nick then got Cross N’Angry - the route that is - for his first 8a+  Go 3 Ground to hole but much slicker but fell off same place. 5 min rest then led through from hole to half way up headwall. Rest and led to falling off last move pulled back on and did it. Tips sore. Nick TRd to strip it and left. Had an hours rest with a view to doing links on Bens but found I couldn’t even do Too Hard for Mark Leech so went home. Clearly doing the two big links from ground for first time had taken it out of me

W.

T. Tor 7am start. Warm. Anger Management. Go 1 dogged to top Go 2 led ground to hole but didn’t get much back at rest and fell off using Nicks sequence. Rest then failed on it again. Go 3 Ground to hole but fell off same place. 5 min rest fell again. Dogged it and worked out a much better foothold for right foot then led through from hole to half way up headwall. Rest and led to falling off last move pulled back on and did it. Had a single burn on Bens from kneebar rest in to Too Hard for Mark Leech so went home. Hopefully now be able to lead from ground to last hard V5 move to belay on next session which is pencilled in for Wddnesday.

F.Two back teeth removed 

S.Drove to Edinburgh

S.AM Walk Linlithgow PM Sonia's aunt's 80th. Driven back from Edinburgh

Gums still sore so going to have a full five days rest as not had a proper rest this year apart from two x three day breaks. Had 13 sessions on Anger Management this year. Feel I should have progressed a lot quicker than I have on this although conditions have been warm. Served the purpose in that I've improved stamina recovery in the process and the headwall has been good for finger strength and finger endurance.

In other news I resigned from the BMC and officially leaving this tuesday. I'd become increasingly frustrated at not being able to press ahead with successive initiatives which in the end signalled that the job was going nowhere as things stood.  The whys and wherefores are a  but have said I am willing to go back if there is a suitable project to get stuck into so who knows - maybe just au revoir. I was successful insofar as I paid my way a few times over but rueful as I put in a lot of energy and had more to contribute. So back to focussing on making money for myself I guess 


.

[tommytwotone]

Cheers Shark - and congratulations / commiserations on the job...


Restarted my journey down the comeback trail again for the umpteenth time.


M - nowt
T - gym on lunch, 500m row then TRX physio + 200 reps of various things
W - 50 x KB goblet squats / 50 x KB swings @ 20kg in kitchen. Sweaty.
T - gym on lunch, band / TRX physio + 200 reps of various things...then out after work for England game and beers
F - DOMS and a hangover
S - nowt, too hot to do anything
S - as Sunday


Properly over this weather now. Can't get back to low 20s quick enough.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - various hangs: one arm on  1,5 flat edge, two arms on 0,9 flat and rounded edge, back and front3 on 0,9 flat and rounded edge. Squats, greasing the groove. Snatch pulls. Push press. Overhead walk, shoulder walk. Leg raises. Phew!
Tue - rest.
Wed - a few hangs, as Monday. Power snatch up to 50 kg x2x4. Then power snatch (5 x40 kg) and farmer's (100 kg) complex x4. Brutal. Leg raises.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - clean and press 40 kg, 5x7. Torrid.
Sun - rest.

[Coops_13]

M: Yoga
T: Arch. Max Hangs - benchmarking. 8 sets, 3 mins rest between sets, taking weight off, bottom middle hold on BM 2K. -32kg, -28kg, -24kg, -20kg, -18kg, -16/18kg, -18/20kg, -20/24kg
W:
T: Arch. 4 sets of max hangs on botom middle hold of BM 2K. 24kg, 24kg, 22kg, 20kg. L wrist achey so left it. Did a load of problems and some on Moonboard instead
F:
S: Arch with gf. Lots of problems including a v slopey green (V6 - 8 ) in v sweaty conditions. Gf did first blues (V1 - 3)!
S: Arch. Short session on comp wall. Did most of the yellow tags (V3-5) and one of the red tags (V6+). When will this heatwave end…

[tommytwotone]

Power Club

Mon ... greasing the groove. Snatch pulls. Push press

[puerile laughter]

[nai]

M -  shoulder conditioning and mobility

T - Cornice  - mileage, 6 tie-ins 6c-7a. Good, had been neglecting mileage a bit.

W - shoulder conditioning and mobility

Th  - Cornice - put the clips in Unleashing, one go up but far too warm. Shelved until cooler weather.  Had a look at Naive & Sentimental, top wall is hard and reachy.

F - first 5km run for a while followed by lots of stretching

S - legs a bit sore when I woke up and despite an hour of stretching very sore by the time I went to bed

S - rest

Have taken three rest days as planned, climbed a lot better today but unfortunately all I want to do in this weather is sit in a dark room and I find it hard not to have a lovely cold drink at the end of the day.

[TobyD]

M run 6-7km in peak

T repeaters and 2x 10 min hard aero cap Hot.

W run 6-7km in peak

T roof warrior attempts plus mileage on 7a+

F 8.5km trail run. Hot.

S cornice tried roof warrior, rapid city, and did 3 or 4 laps of martial music to finish

S cornice tried Unleashing direct, binned it as crux too reachy for me, got back on roof warrior and did a couple of 6c-7a

[Murph]

Morning chaps. Ima gonna get stuck in again if that’s alright.

Goal - Advanced Training

I got back on it again last Sunday and felt ok. Certainly Man of Steel now feels easier than ever with a new foot sequence. A bit of shoulder conditioning and AT should go down in a few sessions. I’ve learnt a lesson this year - was in fantastic condition Feb/Mar time but the lime was soaking, particularly beginners wall. Since then I struggled to stay motivated and let things slack off a bit. Should try to schedule peak condition with dry conditions...

S-Good session at beginners
M-kettlebells
T-kettlebells
W-kettlebells
T-works, random session
F-drove to lakes, kettlebells
S-an hour at The Bowderstone, got the tick on Picnic Sarcastic. I have to say thanks to Coops for his sequence. I tried copying other beta but just couldn’t make the move to the broken crimp. But using coops double heel hook method it went down ok even if I forgot what I was doing near the end. This has been on the wishlist for a couple of years so good to get it.


S-Quick session at Grange campsite boulders and ticked Granger Mouse 7A. The sit looks nails hard. Good problem I’d say.

[Coops_13]

S-an hour at The Bowderstone, got the tick on Picnic Sarcastic. I have to say thanks to Coops for his sequence. I tried copying other beta but just couldn’t make the move to the broken crimp. But using coops double heel hook method it went down ok even if I forgot what I was doing near the end. This has been on the wishlist for a couple of years so good to get it.

Haha good effort, glad my whack beta helped someone. Also, welcome back 

[tomtom]

Nice one Murph.
Shark - having those molars out is taking marginal gains a bit far. Still, it'll grind out some weight loss.



Me: Nothing. Work, Holiday (Italy) and a wedding (Trieste).