[tomtom]

Morning. I scribe my power club entry lying on a spongy single B&B bed in Margate the morning after a Stag do.. I will achieve no entries of climbing note today :D

I missed last week - quick summary: M, Anston: Fail, F, Conies Dale (pre-closure) mixed.

M: Work meeting in Loughborough.. Sneak in a quick hour at Anston en-route and success on Colt!



T: Manage a sneaky second hour (that turned into 2) on the way back from Loboro.. F*ck b**locks etc.. no-where on Beta Blocker (seems anti 'my style') but at the end of the session did the first moves on Last Stand 4 times on the bounce (never managed before) and on the last one dropped going for the final hold.. grr...

Thurs: Bad forecast - argument with Mrs TT - chanced going to Rubicon instead of the wall. Turned out to be an excellent shout. All was dry - no one else was there (why? it was mint!!!) and there were very few tourists/gawpers/what are you doing-ers... The odd shower, but overcast and cool. Set about Caviar and...



Success... at last. Been working this for about a year - probably session number 10+? Thanks to all who have encouraged/offered advice (in James, Mike, Stone) - and full respect to those who carry on to do the route... It was the first time back on it for a few weeks and I know I was much stronger/fitter for it. It nearly went first go - but I dropped the final match (grr) - this is good, but sometimes puts too much pressure on as you know it will go!! One of the reasons it went this time, was my confidence/familiarity/strength/calmness that allowed me to do two micro adjustments - first on my RH on the flake - before moving feet up and going for the final hold. And when I got the last hold udging the LH to a better position so I could really bone down on the top of the hold to allow the match.

Then went and failed on the Press - but rather worryingly did better on Kudos than I've ever done before. Shit. Bugger. I was hoping I could just walk away from that one...

Sa: Train daaaan to Margate from Manchester. Stag do evening things (helped by football to watch) and my first dry stag do (for me not them..) - which wasn't as strange as I thought it would be...

[nai]

Thurs: Bad forecast - chanced going to Rubicon instead of the wall.  Set about Caviar and...

Success...

Good effort Tom, but just for the record, this was Friday 

[tomtom]

Arse. Stag do must have had some impact then :D

[the_dom]

Another decent training week in Vienna.

Monday: Lunchtime boulder at Boulderbar Hannovergasse - a good number of problems between 6C and 7A+ on their 45 degree board. Decent session, followed by a 7-odd km

Tuesday: Afternoon weights session (cleans and deadlifts) followed by an absurdly hard 45 minute Crossfit workout.

Wednesday: Morning Crossfit: High hang squat cleans and a hard power clean workout. Afternoon bouldering - 2 hours at Boulderbar Wienerberg. Ticked some 6C+s and 7As, then played around on 7As and 7A+s the Moonboard and finished with 6 or 7 6B+s and 6Cs. Not the greatest session, mainly because I was exhausted from the previous two Crossfit workouts.

Thursday: Afternoon weights (deadlifts up to 160kgs), followed by another tough Crossfit workout including lots of strict pressing.

Friday: Great session at Boulderbar Wienerberg - did some problems up to 6C+ on the main walls followed by 10 problems between 7A and 7B, some flashed, on the Moonboard, which is by far my best effort since I restarted climbing.

Saturday: Two very hot, slightly hungover hours at Boulderbar Hannovergasse. Got close to a new 7B, then did a fair amount of problems on the 45 board.

Sunday: 12 km hike in the forest.

[nai]

M - Cornice, Powerplant. 4 tie-ins, struggled, found it all hard and couldn't do the roof.
1/2 Shoulder rehab circuit
Trawled ukb and beyond for beta

W - Cornice, Powerplant. 5 tie-ins, much better, worked out the roof and linked from crimps to flaky undercut. Start and finish felt a bit easier
1/2 Shoulder rehab circuit

Th weather watching..

F - Cornice, Powerplant.
Up to equip, did best link yet from the big undercut to flaky undercut.  Game on.
Two redpoint attempts, first quite smooth, to flaky undercut then got stuck getting it with RH which I found ok working it. Unable to clip I shamefully grabbed the draw when I could have just tried harder (possibly, with retrospect...)  Reworked the move to go with LH which I find quite a bit harder
Second attempt riddled with errors but scrapped through to the flaky undercut, clipped and set for the next move but never had a chance of making it.

No time for another go unfortunately but thought up possible new beta on the walk out, realise it could still take an entire season to complete though, as seems popular.

S full shoulder rehab circuit

S deadhangs with deadlift, squat, KB swings & hip thrusts in rest periods. Good.
1/2 shoulder circuit

Amazed at the quick progress on Powerplant, almost didn't bother going back after Monday. Won't get on it this week though, half-term and I'm off to Wales Wed-Sun hoping to bumble around on rocks very big and very small.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - ab wheel (10) and snatch pulls (5) combo x10, back to back. Brutal.
Tue - rest.
Wed - system static full crimp +2 kg 4x4. One foot only bouldering, x1. Military press, bar only, 25, 20, 15. Snatch pulls, bar only, 30x4. Front levers 3x10" close grip. Phew.
Thu - climbing class. Hot, humid.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - foot on system: dynos; front3, back3, front2, mid2 campusing. Weights. 23 degrees, 70% humidity.

[shark]

11.2-4 Av 157.4 up 1.6lb

M. AM Met Nick at TorWarm and greasy. Two goes up Anger Management. First go did headwall in tow halves then reworked traverse and boulder problem finish. Second go led from top of Push Up to middle of headwall. Another attempt from hole to same point then second half of headwall in a oner then reworked traverse and boulder problem finish. Tips wearing thin so did Too Hard for Mark Leach a couple of times and surprised myself with a link of kneebar to reaching into start of THFML. Late Eve Foundry - short campusing session

T.

W. AM Tor. Cooler than Monday. 3 goes on AM. Made progress on the headwall but burnt off by Nick who did headwall twice in a oner declaring it only 7c or 7c+. Also did a quick link on Bens from kneebar rest to going for jug up left on THFML

T.

F. Tor. 8am start (Nick tried to talk me into 7am) Drizzly. Average connies. ANger Mgt again. Go 1 linked headwall from rest in hole to getting but not holding 2 finger pocket in break which was the link that I coveted. Go 2 headwall in two halves - 2nd half to falling off boulder prob finish. Go 3 roughly as go 2.
One burn on Bens from kneebar rest to getting the good high hold on THFML but swinging off which matched my best link on this section

S.

S. Hot. Tor. Not as hungover as I deserved to be. Arrived late morning with Tom and another youth- Josh. Tried Bens from the start but only got to kneebar once and fell setting up for karate kick move. Tom got close on Weedkiller. Joined them on it for a bit. Moved onto X and shade. First visit this year. Nearly repeated JR. Decent

Climbing well but drinking too much and weight creeping up (best of all worlds?) Tweaked back on Saturday feeding branches into a shredder but it was ok on Bens yesterday fortunately. Mindful that a rest week and some Physio is probably overdue. Tor sessions with Nick booked for weds and fri. Push Up start stubbornly resisting drying out. Will head out and reacquaint myself with Moffatrocity in a bit. Oak seems like a distant memory

[Andy F]

Mon - rest
Tues - Hangar. Lots of easier stuff, did some things in the V5-6 range I'd not done before.
Wed - rest
Thurs - Fingerboard. Good set. 1 arm hangs improving.
Fri - rest
Sat - watched the match. Many 🍺🍺🍺
Sun - very hungover session at the Hangar. Climbed surprisingly well.
Mon - Cornice. 4 runs up Unleashing. On the third (top rope) go did it in two overlapping halves - good progress. One go on the sharp end, learnt lots. Then over to Two Tier. 3 runs up Blockhead, but failed moving past the 4th clip due to being tired. Good session.

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. 30 board. Great session on all types of holds and moves.
W:
T:
F:
S: Wales. Warm up RAC, fell off last hard move of Roof of a Baby Buddha 7C+ a few times. Flashed Moria 7B and got shut down by everything else at Rhiw Goch. Ended the day doing Flick of the Wrist 7C. Good big day out.
S: Stormzy innit, welcomed rest day.
M: The Pass. Finally climbed King of Drunks (stand) 6C and managed Wavelength 7B+. Went to scope out Corridors of Power 7C+ and somehow did it on my first proper go from the start just before we had to leave.

Good weekend, went to 5 new crags and almost bagged the 3 main things I want to do in Wales!

Left knee's still bad, still can't sit crossed legged. 

[TobyD]

Then over to Two Tier. 3 runs up Blockhead, but failed moving past the 4th clip due to being tired Blockhead being absolutely desperate and a massive sandbag at 7b. Good session.

[Coops_13]

80.5kg -> 80.2kg

M: Woke up with lower back spasms unable to get out of bed - day off work
T:
W:
T: Saw physio who said my lower back was v tight and gave me a load of stretches to do. Said I was ok to climb.
Arch. Really good session. Almost flashed my first White (V5-7), went 2nd go. Almost sent new 50 project - yellow/purple. Did 1-4-7 R leading for first time on Building1 campus board (I think the rungs are slightly more spaced than biscuit one), close with L. One-armers + 3kg. Stretching. 5 moonboard problems up to 7A
F:
S: Eurostar to Paris, lots of walking and eating. Had two craft beers from Chablis region and some red wine, oops.
S: Paris, more walking and eating

Scales say I gained 1 kg over the BH weekend, hopefully that's just water weight I need to lose again for Magic Wood next week!

[spidermonkey09]

Quiet one this week. Elbows were really painful on Monday after both days on last weekend so opted for increased rest this week and a LOT of stretching/rehab in the evenings.

M - see above

T- See above

W - see above.

T - Gordale after work. Hoped to make some more progress on Supercool but had a pretty bad session in the end. Only went up twice and felt knackered. No idea how to clip the bolt at the crux and skipping this one is not an option for me! Only progress was a link from the crux bolt to the top which I hadn't done before. Would like to get it done and will do in the end if I keep at it but not sure I want another siege right now, so might stick it on the backburner for a while.

F - rest.

S- Lakes. First time placing wires in a long time. Went up to Burnt Crag and did a few E2's and E3's; the last of these was quite hard! Pleasing ability to recover completely on jugs.

S - Walked up to Scafell with camping and climbing gear. Absolutely desperate. Did Dyad E3 in gale conditions and fell off last move to the belay. Did it second go before Rob got really scared on the factor two fall potential second pitch. Also did Shadowfax E4 on Rob's kit which delivered a good balance of fear/enjoyment. Really good by the way, worth three stars. Finished doing Central Buttress in the sunshine. What a route; surely one of the best in the country?

M - Scafell again. Did Ichabod and Hells Groove before walking down. Got back at half 11. Absolutely fucked this morning!

Think I might switch focus a bit for the next month before Ceuse and sack off Supercool for a while unless I feel really strong on other things. Keen to explore Yorks lime a bit more and do some quicker ticks and onsights for fitness training.

[yetix]

STG: Stick to the current self imposed training plan.
MTG: Rock Atrocity, Paint It Black, Jerrys Roof.
LTG: 7C+

63.7kg

First post in a while, stress accumulated from work and I got a little pissy at getting so close on a few things but not sending. Went outside alot and achieving very little. Back to a little more structure for a few weeks and hopefully this will help improve my mentality.
Last two weeks as I forgot to post last week:

M: Arrive back from Albarracin at around 3am feeling a little broken and annoyed from delayed flights!
T: Rest
W: Rockover. Ancap on moonboard (felt incredibly weak, great way to start training!) Bench press, shoulder press and rings rollout (all felt fairly solid)
T: Rest
F: Depot. Capacity session, completed two more yellows (7-8) and dropped the last move on a new orange (8+) which was a little annoying but felt like a fairly solid session. Also did a little fingerboarding midway through the session.
S: Run + Yoga
S: Boulder UK. limit session on the 55 board, lots of trying hard but very little in terms of success. This style of climbing really doesn't suit me at all, will keep working at it and perhaps that will change!


M: Fingerboarding 3 sets of repeaters followed by a couple of "max" hangs
T: Rest
W: Rockover. Ancap on moonboard (MUCH better session than the previous week) Bench press, shoulder press and rings rollout
T: Rest
F: Depot. Capacity session, time was more finite than I would have liked so this session was spent on the comp wall, sent everything upto v6 and worked a couple of the v7s briefly. Also did a little fingerboarding midway through the session.
S: Hungover for the first time in as long as I can remember
S: Boulder UK. limit session on the 55 board, lots of trying hard again and still little in terms of success, but closer on a few more problems.

[Andy F]

Then over to Two Tier. 3 runs up Blockhead, but failed moving past the 4th clip due to being tired Blockhead being absolutely desperate and a massive sandbag at 7b. Good session.

I didn't actually think Blockhead was that tough. It's mostly yarding on decent holds (disclaimer: most things will feel like yarding on big holds compared to Unleashing).

[TobyD]

I didn't actually think Blockhead was that tough. It's mostly yarding on decent holds

But you had several goes at a 7b and didn't do it? I'd say that probably makes it quite tough! Unleashing is mostly jugs though innit. Unfortunately they're all upside down and the setter forgot about the footholds...

[Andy F]

I didn't actually think Blockhead was that tough. It's mostly yarding on decent holds

But you had several goes at a 7b and didn't do it? I'd say that probably makes it quite tough! Unleashing is mostly jugs though innit. Unfortunately they're all upside down and the setter forgot about the footholds...

Unleashing is mostly jugs. Until it's not mostly jugs. Then it's mostly polished footholds. Blockhead is one of those that would feel easy when fresh but much harder when unfresh. Weird to grade. Easy for 7b+, hard for 7b. Decidedly tough when knackered.