[shark]

 11.1-4 (Average 157.0 down 0.7lb on last week )


M. Later start to avoid sun. Up with Paul Mina and Adam Hodgson Sunny to begin with but rock nicely cool. Go1 warm up no throw. Go 2 felt good ground to horn but didn’t hold it - should have Go 3 ground to undercut by 3rd bolt but made a foot fault and fumbled getting side hold above. Pete Chad told me I didn’t breathe at all Go 4 Ground to touching horn Mina then pointed out I didn’t breathe enough Go 5 breathed better but only got to undercut Go 6 throw to Redpoint crux on top traverse virtually straingt back on and from start of top traverse to top. Got the link I wanted twice. Good day

T. .

W. Tor with dog. Just me for most of the time. Changeable weather Relaxed session on Bens mainly trying to do link from first kneebar to top. Got close. Moves feeling very straightforward now.

T, Eve Drove down to Devon

F. Weighted max deadhangs in a freezing barn. Campus rung a bit damp and easier to hold than when I last used it in Jan. Managed same duration compared to beginning of Jan on full crimp, half crimp and drag with an extra 5.75kgs.Had to  Kept returning to car to warm up between hangs

S. 

S. AM drove back. Victorious in Easter egg hunt.

Good week. Stronger than I’ve ever been. Shame I cant capitalise on it as Oak now wet with a big dump of snow here in Sheffield and bad weather forecast. Normally in this scenario I would be climbing the walls but currently feeling uncharacteristically calm and detached about it.   

[T_B]

M - Autobelays - approx 10 routes 6b+/6c
T - Furnace board and Lattice board. Bouldering (bit tired, not surprisingly as 4th day on) then 56, 84 ont Lattice.
W -
T - a.m. Stanage Plantation en famille. A load of classics (also tried BP - pulled a bit of hammy - not too bad and Careless (felt desp). PM tired home board sess avec le wife, inc 4 x 21 moves with 2 mins rest (wot R was doing).
F -
S -
S -

Bit of a slack week. Sacked off going to N Wales and ended up prioritising running o'er climbing Fri/Sun as weather uninspired and then too tired for evening board sessions.

Nice to be out mid-week on dry rock, though wasn't exactly moving well.

[simon1970]

New to this, and hoping will help with motivation.

STG [before May] twice weekly fingerboard-tick
                             brads traverse 7a/+-tick
MTG [before December] 7b+route either Bigger Splash or Moaterhead
                                        7b boulder Man of Steel
LTG [before 2020] 7b+ boulder eatswood Traverse
                               7c route       

Sun-Tues Holiday   
Wed-Raven Tor couple of 6c, tried Kristians, 30 min fell run
Thursday-Raven Tor eliminates wall problems and pulled on Weedkiller Traverse but damp     
Friday-2 hour fell run Tideswell to Buxton
Saturday-First go on eatswood Traverse, small links, could not work out middle section
Sunday-30 min road run
Monday-fingerboard

                             
                             
       

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - somehow got a nasty contraction in some deep muscle of the left side of my upper back, right under the scapula. Easy session, snatch pulls, overhead press, one arm hangs. Hung my 9 mm edge with right hand for 1". Felt amazing. Must bring a fan down in the garage.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1, first week of fifth cycle. An extraordinary success, 21x67 kg (85%) for the last set. Better technique and higher blocks are paying dividends!
Thu - DOMS d'oh! Seaside lunch and 270 km of turns! Weights complex, three sets with different reps and sets schemes (5x5, 10x2, 8x3). Tired!
Fri - rest.
Sat - basketball game. Scored a few points, lost a few balls, managed a few assists, not too bad but made some really bad shooting choices.
Sun - system static full crimp 4x4; full snatch 5x5. Brilliant.

[shark]

New to this, and hoping will help with motivation.

 

We chatted at Tor on weds

Saturday-First go on eatswood Traverse, small links, could not work out middle section

A fine choice of project. Does below video help?

[simon1970]

Great, that helps massively, never knew about the knee bar, and what a place thanks for mentioning this

[shark]

Great, that helps massively, never knew about the knee bar, and what a place thanks for mentioning this

Don’t know if I mentioned the most low key approach. I tend to pull up and throw the mats over the cuttings then drive up the road and turn left and park opposite the ‘Fabrick’ tor. Then walk in via the Fabrick and along the ridge and down on a path so you can cross the road below the house, pick up the mats and head in

[simon1970]

Thanks and makes sense, did similar, looking forward to going back soon

[duncan]

STG - Manage aches and pains. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly. E3 E4 at Pembroke next weekend month. Vertical V4 indoors by end March April.
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long free route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before. Something on the Marmolada - Tempi Moderni? - this July.
LTG - 5.13 at 60.

M - Stretches
T - Shoulder strength, stretches
W - 18mm edge pick-ups: half crimp, open hand and three finger drag x 10 seconds each x 3 sets, trying as hard as I can. Slow improvements in the weight lifted over the last 4/5 months and seems to have some carry-over to rock. Trad. route holds feel huge!
T - Car radiator failed, rushed around to arrange alternative transport, drove to Bristol airport through the rain. Arrived on time, H flight delayed 2 hours. Finally got to Pembroke at 3am.
F - Pembroke wintery cold but fairly dry. Unsurprisingly felt knackered. Did Keelhaul, Cool for Cats, and Deranged.
S - Woke with ripsnorting man ‘flu. Slept, drank tea and shuffled around May Cottage all day. Did some stretches.
S - Still feeling very rough. Still chilly on the crag. Did War Games, Tactician and The Arrow before rain stopped play.

Didn’t get the E3 tick but happy with a brace of E2s given health, lack of sleep, and other stresses. The conditions were not ideal but much better than forecast. Shoulder was 80%, finger managed without strapping for the first time in 3 months. Super-keen to go back in April and May.

H was climbing well and has negotiated some climbing time in July. A Dolomites trip might be in the pipeline.

Plan: recover.

[nai]

M - Couldn't make it out, 3x10x 42s on, 18s rest on steep board jugs - supposed to be AeroCap, probably a bit too hard

T - 2nd appointment with Tim/ProPeakFitness, worked on freeing glutes and hip flexors to demonstrate the extra mobility gained vs just targeting hamstrings. Quite surprised by the results. Series of new exercises to do every day, quite tough to fit in but possible if I'm disciplined.

W - Rubicon - Couldn't do the first move of kudos traverse so moved onto bigger splash direct kneeling start. After a while managed the first move but couldn't keep the tension for the next, hard hard hard. Psyched to keep trying it though.
Decided to try the traverse on the approach wall and managed to suss and send in about 20 minutes.

Th - partly warmed up at home, was a bit sore and struggling to get going, had to wait in for a delivery til mid morning then headed to Rowtor to meet Plattsy & Dolly who were up around Blood Falls.  Did one quick warm up then got straight on it. Looked at a few alternative sequences to the one I worked out last time but settled on my original. Had a best-yet attempt quite early then started going backwards. Dolly insisted I have a proper rest, then I did it. They left for Stanton, I had a quick play on yoghurt hypnotist but was done in and headed home for......

AnCap - usually do 3 sets of 4 but didn't think I'd manage a whole session so set the timer for 10 reps with 4x rest period intending to keep going until first failure. Thought I might mange 6, hoped to get 8 but somehow managed to keep going until the last move of rep 10.

F rest

S garage bouldering - did the hardest problem on the board then repeated it; got on one of the projects and did that then repeated it; onto a modified probject, did it second go; finally another project with a sapping last move to, then off, a big sloper. Got to the sloper but was sapped. Great session.

FB - Max hangs - recorded recent PBs on F3 ½ crimp, F2, B2 & M2 and felt good
Then I tried one arm hangs for the first time in a while, after optimistically opening at 95% I gave up after also failing at 85%. Nothing like being schooled to put you back in your place.

S LI AeroCap 3x10 mins

Managed to do the mobility work from Tim every day so far.  Off to Tenerife tomorrow, keen to check out the bouldering. Getting the energy system work out of the way before I go then hopefully get 3/4 short bouldering sessions in.

[SA Chris]

M - wall session felt pretty strong, got some good probs done
T - Nowt
W - took friend climbing, been meaning to for ages she did OK, but knackered fast. Did some bouldering after felt wasted and climbed badly, don't think i can do 2 hard board sessions with 1 day rest in between anymore.
T - nowt
F -  weather ming, but needed to do lunch run, put in a good 10 k in an hour on trails and forest paths through mud, rain, wind and horizontal sleet.
S - Swim when kids in pool, half hour, 1100m.
S - Not much. Walk with kids in glorious warm weather.

[Dexter]

STG:- get stronger and more flexible, do some cool stuff in font next week
MTG:- do 8B (probably keen roof or Louis Armstrong) and 8b (tuppence)
LTG:- Planche

M:- Casual climb. Pretty tired still from previous week.
T:- Rest
W:- New shoes arrived mostly just giving them a good test at the wall.
T:- Rest
F:- Trip to the new Vauxeast wall. Great session doing a load of their black circuit which is really fun. Tips a bit thin afterwards though.
S:- Rest
S:- Relatively easy leading session indoors. Trying to conserve skin for font next week. Dropped the last move on the flash attempt of a 7c+ just totally pumped out. 

[Murph]

Good week. Stronger than I’ve ever been. Shame I cant capitalise on it as Oak now wet with a big dump of snow here in Sheffield and bad weather forecast. Normally in this scenario I would be climbing the walls but currently feeling uncharacteristically calm and detached about it.

I’m jealous. This perpetual never ending winter that seems to relent only when I am sat at my desk or otherwise passless or is really getting me down. It’s feeling increasingly fantastical that I’ll ever get back on dry lime again.

I wish there was some way of knowing what was in nick. Using up a whole pass to get out to a wet bit of lime comes at a huge cost and it’s not the petrol.

Anyway
M-5k easy, kettlebells
T-power hour/40kg hangs/5k easy
W-20k easy
T-relatively weak works session trying murples (too hard for me) and
F-kettlebells
S-graves parkrun PB 21:27. I know this is supposed to be Climbing but I’m finding the running more appealing these days. For one thing - conditions and length of pass needed are reliable. But I guess that’s a slippery slope too once you advance beyond the ranks of punterdom.
S-

Too much being kept up and kept in by kids (do they have to cry so much!?)

65.0kgs not bad considering wet weather Easter damage

[csl]

This week

- see a physio about my back - sort of, spoke to one on the phone and it started feeling better immediately.
- do 1 of my moonboard projects - nope, motivation low

March

- 4 days out - 3/4, reasonably pleased with that
- 4 Greens at the Arch - 5/4, reckon a couple were soft though
- stretching at least 2x a week - improved towards end of the month, some way to go with commitment

this year

- 7C
- hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: 72.9 -> 72.7kg
Injuries: back got better without working on it

Monday

Lacking motivation, tried to moonboard but couldn't get keen.

Wednesday

Same as monday, distracted session. Decided to take a week off!

coming week

2 sessions on weaknesses (slabs/vert/slopers)
Find some new projects after moonboard reset

April goals

5 Greens at the Arch
Benchmark 7B on the moonboard
Weight < 72kg

[Footwork]

- see a physio about my back - sort of, spoke to one on the phone and it started feeling better immediately.

  I'm the same

[Duma]

 

Goals:
Good trip to Magic end of June
Good trip to Dolomites September

72kg 

M - run after work, 3m. Surprised how good I felt. Nice to be outside
T - TCA eve, progress on the hard wood on the mothership, all moves done but nowhere near linking.
W - legs remembered I'd been running on Monday, calves tight in morning. TCA eve, new 6A-6C+ circuit, so went round those, good fun.
T -
F - lie in, pack van, drive to Pembroke. Surprisingly was dry, if baltic, managed to get a route in (Army Dreamers HVS) before retiring to the pub
S - Seconded red_rhodesha on her great lead of Too Much Pressure (E1)
S - Baker's Door (E2) Pleased with this, bit more efficient with gear, still took ages though. Cold really biting so bailed to van for tea, then the rain came in so beat the traffic back to Bristol.