Will increasing my aerobic capacity increase the number of attempts per day? Or is this just related to trying really hard and the route being close to my endurance limit and should I try prioritising one of the other components?
That said, it's quite clear what you have to work to improve recovery, no? I find it unlikely that it can be explained by anything else than bad stamina, in the broad sense. You are likely to have low mitochondria count, low capillarity, underdeveloped lactate shuttle, underdeveloped size in the type I muscle cells, and possibly a badly functioning potassium-sodium pump. This can be improved by doing a fuck-ton of moves per session over time. Cf. spanish stamina training.
Aerobic ability is unfortunately quite easy to detrain. I've read some quite shocking case-studies on rowers. This seems to be the case for many climbers as well. Even extremely good onsight climbers can loose quite a lot over 2-3 months of bouldering.But, on the other hand, aerobic ability can increase quite rapidly when it is underdeveloped. For technical reasons that has to do with gene-expressions it seems good to have many bouts of training lasting at least 15 min without stopping (except to run between problems if doing a circuit). If you're doing block periodisation, 3 weeks x 4-5 session/week will make a big difference, unless you are Patxi U. For undulating periodisation 2-3 session p week concurrent with other training, I'd expect good results in 5-6 weeks. So yeah, for a short-time increase in the level I'd expect to see effect on myself already after 2-3 sessions of cruising on jugs. Maybe even after one single mega session. If you're doing laps on 7b (with short rests? less than a minute or so? in which case your onsight level on euro limestone is around 7b+/c?) that should at least not decrease your session stamina.(The most qualified climbing coach I know (with several athletes that've reached WC finals, have onsighted and redpointed at world class levels) makes all of his athletes (including people only bouldering) do at least 4 weeks of high volume training a year.) For practical reasons I cannot do block-periodisation right now.
I guess the solution would be to actually do some proper training aerobic but I enjoy woodie climbing too much!
So last year when I was nt injured and the route was dry i was trying to red point a route a Kilnsey. Easy start to no hands rest, then around 25-30 hand moves to the top.
An hour a week is all it takes, possibly even less, you can't climb on the woodie every day after all, can be done as an active recovery day or just after a wall session (although that possibly has an affect on any strength gains). Worth the minor hassle I reckon, if I do it I feel solid straight away when I first get out in Spring, otherwise it's a nervy jittery start that wastes several sessions.
If you're fit then you're fit.
nb: getting this many decent redpoints in also means sticking with a route, even if one of your attempts is shit and you feel knackered. I see a lot of people give up after the 2nd or 3rd go because it didn't go well. I've lost count of the number of times I've had a shit 2nd or 3rd go, and then smashed a route in on the 4th or 5th try.
...and then smashed a route in on the 4th or 5th try.
I've lost count of the number of times I've had a shit 2nd or 3rd go, and then smashed a route in on the 4th or 5th try.
If you don't have a powernap hanging off a kneebar en-route it ain't happening
Quote from: SA Chris on March 22, 2018, 01:54:49 pmIf you don't have a powernap hanging off a kneebar off-route it ain't happeningFixed
If you don't have a powernap hanging off a kneebar off-route it ain't happening
If you don't have a powernap between attempts it ain't happening