I still never got an answer as to why the BMC now (always did?) has a stated aim of encouraging growth in all areas it represents?
Can't find this written down anywhere. Got a link?
Teaboy aka tyler made his views known on this ukc thread
If places like Almscliff are utterly hoaching with beginners, punters and experienced rock cats alike, why aren't the experienced rock cats doing something about and going elsewhere?
Abandon hope, y'all; climbing is fucked.
Quote from: SA Chris on March 13, 2018, 12:21:04 pmIf places like Almscliff are utterly hoaching with beginners, punters and experienced rock cats alike, why aren't the experienced rock cats doing something about and going elsewhere?I would normally be elsewhere, but the Cliff was the only place that was going to be dry and I only had a few hours in the afternoon.I am doing my bit to try and encourage climbing at lesser known venues:www.unknownstones.com
Quote from: Will Hunt on March 13, 2018, 12:24:51 pmQuote from: SA Chris on March 13, 2018, 12:21:04 pmIf places like Almscliff are utterly hoaching with beginners, punters and experienced rock cats alike, why aren't the experienced rock cats doing something about and going elsewhere?I would normally be elsewhere, but the Cliff was the only place that was going to be dry and I only had a few hours in the afternoon.I am doing my bit to try and encourage climbing at lesser known venues:www.unknownstones.comNot aimed at you personally, I'm just talking in general terms. I just know as an (aging) ERC if Almscliff was rammed with people, radios and dogs that it would automatically not be my first choice...
I just know as an (aging) ERC if Almscliff was rammed with people, radios and dogs that it would automatically not be my first choice...
You've assumed that the ERCs get first dibs on where they climb and, actually, this isn't fair at all and isn't reflective of reality. There isn't a ticketing system, it's first come first served. If the parking is full you should go elsewhere, even if you are Ondra. Many of the problems that we're getting are because people refuse to do this....In order to reduce the likelihood of carrying capacity being reached, people should be encouraged to see that, for the most part, the less popular crags are not inferior, they are simply less hyped. This will encourage them to explore other venues.
You've assumed that the ERCs get first dibs on where they climb and, actually, this isn't fair at all and isn't reflective of reality.
You've missed the point completely, this isn't about who climbs best it's about growth leading to overcrowding, regardless of ability. If growth is encouraged who benefits? If it is not actively pursued who misses out? Some notional people who are unaware of climbing? Let's face it it's never been easier to get into climbing, numbers are growing anyway. If it comes to a choice between my place in the queue at Almscliff and someone who has been press ganged by the BMC I'd chose me, I want to know why the BMC would choose the other person because at some point that's what it will boil down to.
What Will said. There is a real risk that objections to participation come across as incredibly elitist and selfish, even if they aren't. Just because someone has been climbing since the 70's doesn't give them a divine right to turn up and climb at a quiet crag at a time of their choosing.
Who benefits? Lots of people who might not otherwise have had their lives enriched by climbing; I don't think that can be dismissed as notional.
Numbers are growing anyway, I agree, so why would the BMC not back what is likely to be a winning horse? I don't think it will ever come to the BMC prioritising certain groups as long as education continues apace. In any case, in time I suspect trad will have a resurgence, or wild/remote bouldering, distributing participants across the sport more widely.At the moment there is a bouldering wave being ridden by a lot of people. Our challenge as ERC's is to ride that wave out, educate those who stick around and call out people who drop in. there endeth the surfing metaphor!
Likewise a great crag is not that great if there are too many people there.
Numbers are growing anyway, I agree, so why would the BMC not back what is likely to be a winning horse?
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on March 13, 2018, 01:31:08 pmWho benefits? Lots of people who might not otherwise have had their lives enriched by climbing; I don't think that can be dismissed as notional. If the BMC sees it as it's mission to enrich the lives of those who have never thought about climbing why not give money to a homeless charity, that way it can reach the people who's lives really need enriching without impacting the enjoyment of its members. Besides, how many of these poor lost souls do you bring in to the church, who do you leave behind to endure a life of misery/cross training/yogalates?