Thought it worth resurrection of this thread, as while there's loads of information out there regarding A2, A1 remains tumblweed town.
I stupidly strained my middle finger about 12 sessions in after returning to climbing following my Achilles rupture. Obviously my extreme pleasure in actually climbing again prevented caution when I found myself back at my old grade in a pretty short time.
It made a noise ( no pop) and I started the most current pulley protocol I could find, an A2 one.
All going well, returned to climbing indoors, and made a furtive trip outside for a juggy 6A+. Turns out the holds were large flatties and was painful. Balls!
All the soreness is in my palm at the base of the middle finger, no pain in the A2 region anymore.
I'm guessing the initial injury was caused by tiredness leading to a loss of form on the steep sidepull I was using, pulling the finger forward perpendicular to the palm.
Given the leaps forward in A2 management, is there any new A1 specific knowledge out there?