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Grade my boulder traverse?? (Read 2702 times)

rosmat

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Grade my boulder traverse??
February 05, 2018, 04:08:09 am
So I'm looking for some grading insight. I've found a large boulder near my house in California that has a long (70 move) traverse. I'm looking for some ideas around the grade of the whole traverse. It breaks down like this:

10 move V4 to a good shake out.
15 move V3 to a reasonable shake out.
10 move v2 to a good shake out.
10 move V2 to a good shake out.
15 move V3 to a good shake out.
10 move V5 to finish.

Any ideas - I have no idea how to give a route grade to a boulder traverse this long???

shark

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#1 Re: Grade my boulder traverse??
February 05, 2018, 07:43:51 am
Sport 7c or 7c+

highrepute

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#2 Re: Grade my boulder traverse??
February 05, 2018, 08:32:32 am
which probably means about boulder 7b. but it's fairly meaningless to give it a boulder grade. So a sport grade is much better.

abarro81

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#3 Re: Grade my boulder traverse??
February 05, 2018, 09:34:23 am
Sport 7c or 7c+

My guess is harder than that... most 70 move 8as wouldn't have a V5 exit. If you think of the long shit like Crucifixion at the Tor I imagine it would have lower boulder grades than that. But, obviously, theres V5 and there's V5... and there's good shakeouts and good shakeouts.. so who the hell knows without doing it.

shark

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#4 Re: Grade my boulder traverse??
February 05, 2018, 11:01:15 am
Sport 7c or 7c+

My guess is harder than that... most 70 move 8as wouldn't have a V5 exit. If you think of the long shit like Crucifixion at the Tor I imagine it would have lower boulder grades than that. But, obviously, theres V5 and there's V5... and there's good shakeouts and good shakeouts.. so who the hell knows without doing it.

 :-\ Stamina recovery routes always a tricky one to grade. IIRC the crux on Crucixifixion felt V5ish for a normal ape index and has a 8m pumpy section to reach it, unless you re fit enough to shake out on the holds of course. Sticking to my guess as presented on the basis that good shakeout means potential for full recovery to me.   

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Grade my boulder traverse??
February 05, 2018, 11:18:12 am
I've found a large boulder near my house in California that has a long (70 move) traverse.

Jammy bastard.

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#6 Re: Grade my boulder traverse??
February 05, 2018, 01:18:56 pm
MXS 6a

rosmat

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#7 Re: Grade my boulder traverse??
February 05, 2018, 03:46:08 pm
Thanks for the replies. My guess was around 7c+ so good to know that I'm probably in the right ball park.

The problem I see in grading these type of stamina recovery routes is that if you are fit enough to recover fully at the shakeouts, you could potentially go indefinitely.

 

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