[yetix]

http://www.shoedoc.eu I use this £26 per pair plus postage when I last did it...

[tomtom]

I've had 4pairs done at Llanberis resoles and been very happy with them all...

Torquil at Llanberis did my VS with the thinner/softer rubber that’s on the slippers and on the VSR’s. As VSR’s are VS with the different rubber I effectively got the same for £38 instead of £110...

If you’re in beris you can drop them off for atorquil at v12. I also had a pair of slippers resoled - they didn’t work as well as the VS. Maybe as they are softer etc...

I got my last batch (2) of the slippers from EpicTV when they had some 20% off thing and they were about £60 a pair..

[gme]

Come on grandad, a pint of bitter isn’t 50p any more, the rubber probably costs that much!

Used to be able to cut the rubber from the heel and glue it on the toe back in the day. Two pairs for the price of one.
I have never paid more than 70 for a pair hence why 40 sounds a lot for a resole.

[Murph]

Instinct VS for £70? That sounds mighty cheap. Can you let me know if and when that ever comes up again?

[erm, sam]

Fuck me that’s expensive. I thought it would be 20 quid ish.
Not paying 40 for resoles.

They come back like a new pair of boots that fit you perfectly. Not like the old days when they would be only good for a wall boot.
Some pairs delaminate sooner than others, but they climb just as good after the resole. Well, my muira vs always have.

[Danny]

I agree. I did the same as tomtom with my VS pair, getting them resoled in the grip rubber. Which, for my liking, made them better than the originals. I'm no fan of the edge rubber.

[mrjonathanr]

Yep me too.

Gav, have a word with yourself! I’m looking forward to your next post about jumpers for goalposts and how policemen all seem to be getting a lot younger these days...

[gme]

I am glad someone else has noticed that as well.

[spidermonkey09]

Cheshire Shoe Repairs do a very good job for the price and are inclusive of rands.

[tomtom]

how policemen all seem to be getting a lot younger these days...

And shorter...

[SA Chris]

Even when i climbed full time i only ever had a couple of pairs on the go.

Only because you were on the dole and couldn't afford it.

[Steve Crowe]

The Instinct Slipper was been my fav all rounder climbing shoe. I also liked the Stix a lot on steeper routes. I tried to stock up on the Instinct Slipper when I realised they were changing the design but I couldn't find my size. I'm very pleased I didn't because the new Instinct SR is the best rock shoes I have ever climbed in. They fit perfectly. I was concerned about the look of the heel but it has performed really well at heel hooking too. Fit wise, I went up one size.

[remus]

Interesting point about the heel Steve. I picked up a pair of these the other day and the heels feel like the main downside to me. I usually tend to wear the instinct vs and compared to those the heel feels quite 'shallow', and combined with the lack of a strap they feel like they're about to pop off at any moment. Might be a bit of getting used to them involved but I can't imagine i'll be yarding on the heels any time soon.

On the plus side the toes feel excellent. Quite a similar fit to the instinct vs but a bit softer. For me a nice bonus was that they felt great out of the box, in the past Ive had a bit of a quest breaking in the instinct vs.

[ghisino]

got these a few days ago, as i had won a pair of scarpa shoes at a local comp.

first impressions

so far very positive - only two sessions outdoors and one indoors. probably won't be my main redpoint shoe as i like something stiffer and a little pointier...
the main (only?) downside of the shoe is the way the toe rubber is assembled under the rand, makes for a quite bulky big toe profile that could fit better into small pockets and thin cracks...I wonder if this will change as the shoe breaks in.


other than that, this could easily become my main allround shoe when worn in, plus a performance shoe for more smeary applications, some cracks, toe hooks etc.
very good comfort/performance compromise and a well balanced amount of stiffness and downturn for a true slipper

a bit puzzled by the sizing, compared to the last time i tried scarpas in a shop. they seem small for their size.

i quite like the heel, but would like to try the same design on a non slipper shoe (furias?). when pulling straight on it it will never feel secure unless you fit the shoe extremely tight. Very nice fit and interesting sensitivity though, works great on indoor volumes.