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Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018 (Read 6561 times)

tomtom

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Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 07, 2018, 07:14:55 pm
Bore Da!

Tu: Manc Depot
We:
Th: Manc Depot
Fri : Train > London
Sa: Train > Manchester
Su: Curbar - Busy - so ended up warming up on the Bad Landing boulder... Progress on Great White (and a little on Bens Wall - speculative attempts..).

Gained 4lb over the festive week(s) proving hard to shake...

Murph

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#1 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 07, 2018, 09:38:19 pm
Lloniannau Tom

M-NYD 5k run, kettlebells
T-cycle commute 20k, kettlebells, max hangs (up to +32kg on 14mm)
W-cycle commute, kettlebells
T-cycle commute, 7k lunch run, half decent works session on new irn brus (6a or so)
F-felt strangely buggered. Stretching, lacrosse ball stuff, elastic bands.
S-works session, finished off all but 1 of the irn brus
S-7k run, max hangs (up to +24kg on 14mm)

69.5kg->68.5kg

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#2 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 07, 2018, 09:56:47 pm
Noswaith dda

Couple of weeks off - ritual Christmas force feeding by in-laws followed by burning it off skiing in Norway (= fucking ace)

69.0kg - briefly lighter than murph  ;)

M- nul points

T- Max hangs BM micros(10s) open crimp- 10 sets up to 5x(+30kg x 5s) felt good; first time in ages my left MCP joint didn’t play up on deadhang..
30 min exercise bike

W- nul points

T- DL: 11 sets up to 3 singles at 205kg - lightish weights and still some balance issues but delighted the mild sciatica that was holding me back towards the end of last year seems to have cleared up..
Stoke AW moonboard 1 hr - realised I’d misread the column for some of the holds on the problem I was working d’oh - not surprisingly feels much more realistic now..

F- nul points

S- Max hangs BM micros(10s) open crimp: 15 sets up to +40kg x 2.5s and a bunch more sets at +30kg x5s

S- Stoke AW 1hr wall probs, 1hr moonboard - good progress; climbed through the crux on the roof V8 and climbed through the crux on the board prob of Dom’s I’ve been working

Turns out a couple of weeks full rest can be surprisingly healing - sadly will be a couple of weeks before I get the chance to get back on project so can peeps kindly shut up about how Woody’s has been so bloody mint!

fried

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#3 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 07, 2018, 09:59:31 pm
M - failed Sharkathon on the first day. Walked from bed to the fridge, ate some spare ribs. Then went back to bed again.

T- 1.5h walking at speed.
W- indoors. 2h. Ok session
Th- 1.5h walking, carrying large boxes.
Fr- Went to Saint Malo, beautiful. Long walk in winter sun.
Sa- Saint Malo aquarium, more walking.
Su- long drive home and um...

Lovely weekend away. But ate and drank a bit too well. Christmas over now

duncan

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#4 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 07, 2018, 10:07:41 pm
Ta

STG - Rehab. finger. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - V4 on the Westway steep board by March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; an exotic long, hard and free.

M - (From last week) Pull-ups. Max. hangs. Twatted ring finger slipping over in the mud, stupidly trying to carry the lad to keep him out of the mud...
 
T - Shoulder strengthening/stability (Dips, bicep curls-military press, high rotator cuff ‘gaston’ with theraband, front and side planks, horizontal rows)
W - Shoulder strengthening/stability; left hand max. ‘pick-ups’ with mini-fingerboard.
T - Pull-ups; stretches
F - Shoulder strengthening/stability; pull-ups
S - Shoulder strengthening/stability; stretches
S - Shoulder strengthening/stability; left hand max. ‘pick-ups’ with mini-fingerboard; stretches.

Finger clearly a collateral ligament: tolerates gripping a bar with buddy taping. Another week of this then ease back into gentle climbing. It’s an opportunity to help the left fingers catch up with the right.   

Murph

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#5 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 07, 2018, 10:17:40 pm
That's just the sort of motivation I need matt!

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#6 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 07, 2018, 11:03:29 pm
11.3-5 (guesstimate)

L.. Eve fingerboard

M. Lunch. Wave. Felt good. Got on the wasp again. Felt so much easier. Did it in well overlapping halves. Fell off redpoint 4x touching but not holding the hold on the jump move

M. Lunch. Wave. Retried wasp. Got fed up falling on jump move. Started working orange and black spots. PM One set of 20/10's on systems board. Shattered when I got home. Nap and drive to Devon 

I. Splitting logs

G.Silage forking and feedbag stacking. Fingerboard session - weighted hangs on a campus rung I'd screwed to a beam in a barn

S.AM 50 min walk with dog by sea whilst wife and daughter did a park run PM 2+ hours of forking out and wheel barrowing  muck.

S. PM Drive back from Devon. Eve Fingerboard session. Single deadlift (145kg)

Fingerboard sessions went well. Sharkathon also going well. Losing weight and no alcohol (except in a slice of fruit cake). Felt tired a lot of the time and had lots of naps. Back to work tomorrow and more structured training regime. Keen to get back to Anston for another play on Soul Crusher   

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#7 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 08:04:16 am
Training scuppered this week by driving overnight to a funeral in north west scotland: little sleep, bad diet and a fair amount of drinking means I'm now ill.

This week

- do 50% of the red circuit - fail
- 1 max hangs session - tick
- stretch x3 - fail 1/3

this month

- lose christmas weight belt (1 ~ 1.5kg)
- hang 1 pad edge for 7.5secs @ 74kg
- do 75% of the red circuit at the arch in a session

this year

- 7C
- hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Mon

nothing

Tue

Arch Biscuit

Max Hangs - felt hard, didn't bring a pulley so assistance was a bit random
Problems - did a white, and a few repeats and worked on a couple of things I haven't done yet.
Stretching - 20 minutes or so, feeling ok.

Wednesday

Arch - B1

First visit to the new setup. Fantastic training area, glad to see they've put a 20º board full of crimps in as well as a 50º and a moonboard.

Problems - had 1 or 2 goes on each of the reds. Did 3 / 14 first go, should have done about 4 more but got distracted by the moonboard  :spank:

Moonboard:

- Wuthering Heights 6B+ - flash
- Far from the madding crowd 6B+ - 2nd go
- Hard Times 7A - came close on the flash but the penultimate move felt a bit tweaky on my dodgy finger so sacked it

Thursday

11 hours drive overnight and hit a deer near Applecross. Sleep deprivation and objective danger felt similar to alpine climbing.

Friday

Driving home

Saturday

ill

Sunday

ill

next week

- lose .5kg
- 1 max hangs session
- 2x stretching
- do 50% of red circuit

Yossarian

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#8 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 08:45:36 am
STG - Slim down
MTG - 7A / 7b+
LTG - tbc

Mon / Tues / Wed - Idle
Thursday - 6.5mile run / walk / crawl
Friday - Struggled to walk
Saturday - Various kettlebell / bodyweight exercises
Sunday - Ditto

Weight - 104.2 down to 102.2. Have started fasting plan - skipping breakfast, eating between 3pm - 8pm,etc. Much easier than skipping entire days. Started it as a productivity thing, but it appears to be working on the weight front too.

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#9 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 09:22:05 am
Weight: 66.3kg - think I must be dehydrated this morning (2kg lower than last week)!

STG: Train more regularly, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC


M: Rest.
T: Run. 5.5km followed by 6 x hill sprints and jog home. Knee was hurting on downhill bits of jog home.
W: Core and knee strengthening exercises. Planks/squats/leg raises/hip abductions etc.
T: Rest.
F: Nothing.
S: Nothing.
S: 8.5km at 4:20/km pace. Knee seemed ok but still niggly. Strengthening exercises afterwards.

Cut down on the mileage this week as my left knee has been niggly. Felt better on Sunday's run. Think I will keep up the hill sprints and try and do more of the strengthening exercises.

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#10 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 09:56:18 am
Weight - 104.2 down to 102.2. Have started fasting plan - skipping breakfast, eating between 3pm - 8pm,etc.
FWIW, I've had good results with something like that in the past. I found the crux to be sticking with it and making it a habit etc. but getting the hard bit out of the way at the start of the day makes sense to me. Good luck with it.

nai

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#11 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 10:05:09 am
Been on holiday in Scotland all week.  Weather was a bit shit, averaged something like 21 hours per day indoors with a clock that chimed church bells every quarter just to let you know there went another 15 minutes of your life that weren't coming back.

I did complete 2 days of my mobility program plus the short recovery session once and managed a couple of hours bouldering at 3 wise monkeys in Fort William once.  Other than that it's just been a 2-3hr walk (usually in the rain) every day.

bing bong, bing bong, bong bing, bong bing.

Yossarian

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#12 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 10:30:55 am
Cheers. I tried entire fasted days in November. They were ok as first, but hard to keep up. This I much prefer.

Incidentally, I wasn’t aware of the supposed effects of fasting on testosterone levels. I’ve noticed this mentioned a few times in the past few days...

Dolly

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#13 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 01:11:29 pm
Da iawn TT


M
T Shed power
W Routes on autobelay at gym
T Kettlebells and core at gym. Felt hard
F Stiff as anything after squats and lunges so didn't so anything.
S Shed power
S Burbage S boulders. Failed on lots of things and tore my skin - a typical grit afternoon :)


As with Shark no alcohol apart from in a slice of fruit cake - do you have yours with cheese ?
Losing weight and generally keen


Bradders

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#14 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 06:30:43 pm
Having experienced a lull in motivation for a couple of weeks I've now somehow managed to open accounts on no less than five problems I'd like to do! Good thing really I suppose, can just head whichever way the wind blows :-)

STG - above 5 problems, in no particular order; Zoo York, Chiasmata, Frank, Dark Art & Crazy Legs Crome. Get stronger legs for skiing at the end of Jan
MTG - high 7s not my normal style on grit, Lager3 & Ben's Groove Sit in particular
LTG - so much to do, so little time

M - power hour on the Depot 50 board. Managed all my warm ups again then made some good links on harder stuff. In particular had a nice 'floaty' moment where I actually felt light and strong.
T - lunch; squats and military presses in the gym. Evening; first hangboard session in ages. Just a set of 5/5 repeaters on the small BM2000 rungs.
W - rest
T - big Depot session. Trying things well above my limit for 2+ hrs in the main wall, Then 45mins on the 50 to finish. Re-did all the moves on my Zoo York simulator at the end of the session which was good considering how beaten I was.
F - lunch gym, bench press 5x5r @ 60kg followed by 5x 8r tricep pulldowns on the cable machine and weighted pull ups +15kg x3r supersetted.
S - long walk with the dog
S - Cliff. Account opened on Chiasmata. Felt pretty good on it, best go was very nearly latching the RH on the lip. Main difficulty turning off that bit of your brain that says you're going to ping off and hit the Matterhorn.

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#15 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 06:50:53 pm
 ;D ;D ;D ;D Tomtom!

Power Club

Mon - empty bar work, boxing bag. No fingerboarding this week, mostly because of a cut in my right ring finger.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1 second week of second cycle, 64 kg x 9. Steady on.
Thu - should have been a quick recovery session, turned out a quick heavy one. Weights; snatch pulls Emom sets 5 x 30" x 2; shoulder carry and dumbbell complex combo x 2.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - one foot campusing on back3, front2 and mid2. System static full crimp. 30/30 x 5. Ok, ok, I said no fingerboarding, not no finger training. Snatch and farmer's walk complex, brilliant.
Sun - rest.

tomtom

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#16 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 07:53:33 pm
;D ;D ;D ;D Tomtom!

:) see what language we are on by December!

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#17 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 08, 2018, 09:00:39 pm
Mon - Short snow bike ride and some stretching - 45min
Tues - Worked Routes, WU, then 1st go bolt to bolt on 8a/+, 2nd go 2 hang.  Then to 7c+ and one hang, then rp. 
Wed - Short Boulder session, then teach climbing class
Thur - Max Hangs, teach climbing class
Fri - Avalanche Course / Backcountry snowboard
Sat - Avalanche Course / Backcountry snowboard
Sun - Avalanche Course / Backcountry snowboard

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#18 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 09, 2018, 08:50:21 am
M:
T: Gym in the States with the gf. Annual deadlift session, beat last year's PB with a lift of 280 lb. Could have gone heavier but didn't want to bugger back with poor form
W:
T: Gym again. Bench pressed for the first time in my life, got up to my bodyweight which was nice. Then did a load of shoulder/upper body exercises including attempts and flags :)
F: Walk in the freezing cold...
S:
S:

Back in the UK now, training and food restrictions in force for Albarracin trip in Feb!

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#19 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 09, 2018, 09:59:01 am
Haven't confessed for a couple of weeks but it was fairly same-old over the festive break - board sessions and fingerboarding.  The weather was crap so I didn't get anywhere on my intended goals but I have been spending time searching out and cleaning new problems in the local glens so I've got plenty to go at when the sun eventually shines.

Mon - Board session at home
Tues - Nothing
Weds - Had a session trying a new line I'd cleaned a couple of weeks ago.  It still needs a bit more cleaning but pleasantly surprised by the quality and difficulty.  Minor split tip.
Thurs - Nothing
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Session at another new venue that I've been cleaning. 5 nice easy problems in the 6A and below category, a stand start at 6B and then worked the harder sit start.  Massive psyche for this.  Then found another great looking problem just down the hill and gave it a scrub as the light faded. Massive psyche for this too!

kelvin

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#20 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 09, 2018, 12:34:12 pm


Back in the UK now, training and food restrictions in force for Albarracin trip in Feb!

Might bump into you then - I'll be kicking around at some point in the first three weeks. La Zahora for evening beers usually, the climber bar that opened last winter - a good place for beta if you need any as they have a big screen and so many videos of the problems.

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#21 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 09, 2018, 01:02:44 pm
Back in the UK now, training and food restrictions in force for Albarracin trip in Feb!

Might bump into you then - I'll be kicking around at some point in the first three weeks. La Zahora for evening beers usually, the climber bar that opened last winter - a good place for beta if you need any as they have a big screen and so many videos of the problems.
Ah cool, just looked that's 20 mins walk from where we're staying so I'm sure I'll see you there. I'm there from the 4th :)

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#22 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 09, 2018, 03:34:32 pm
Ah cool, just looked that's 20 mins walk from where we're staying so I'm sure I'll see you there. I'm there from the 4th :)

Sandstone Guesthouse perchance? Nice people if so. I'll keep my eye out for a Brit flashing all the hard stuff then  :boxing:

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#23 Re: Clwb Pŵer 410 1-7 Ionawr 2018
January 09, 2018, 05:14:24 pm

Sandstone Guesthouse perchance? Nice people if so. I'll keep my eye out for a Brit flashing all the hard stuff then :boxing:

Forget that! Just watch out for a flashing Brit

 :P

 

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