studies* show the best tendon rehab results come from ... a 4-6 week break from the offending activity.
Make or Break has some great advice on climbing related elbow pain
8a or 8a+ rp in Spain in March. ≥7c onsight.Do a ≥ font 7b on anything other than grit or font sandstoneGet back on some Yorkshire projectsFit in several decent trad trips in the summerRide my bike moreRead more. Finish a Guardian crossword
Quote from: TobyD on January 01, 2018, 11:36:11 pm8a or 8a+ rp in Spain in March. ≥7c onsight.Do a ≥ font 7b on anything other than grit or font sandstoneGet back on some Yorkshire projectsFit in several decent trad trips in the summerRide my bike moreRead more. Finish a Guardian crosswordWell underestimated how long it has been since I've been on a climbing trip, onsighting new ground, dealing with burly tufas etc. Had a great time in Spain and massively improved. Tried pretty much all my target routes, one was broken and now very hard and put a load of work into 2 8a+s at bruxes, hopefully it'll pay off when I go back. Most importantly, did quite a few fantastic routes and had a right laugh. Weather was far from ideal, but only missed 1 planned day in a month.
Quote from: TobyD on April 02, 2018, 08:14:37 amQuote from: TobyD on January 01, 2018, 11:36:11 pm8a or 8a+ rp in Spain in March. ≥7c onsight.Do a ≥ font 7b on anything other than grit or font sandstoneGet back on some Yorkshire projectsFit in several decent trad trips in the summerRide my bike moreRead more. Finish a Guardian crosswordWell underestimated how long it has been since I've been on a climbing trip, onsighting new ground, dealing with burly tufas etc. Had a great time in Spain and massively improved. Tried pretty much all my target routes, one was broken and now very hard and put a load of work into 2 8a+s at bruxes, hopefully it'll pay off when I go back. Most importantly, did quite a few fantastic routes and had a right laugh. Weather was far from ideal, but only missed 1 planned day in a month.Buxes is so good isn't it! Which 8a+se were you on?
1) Try and sort my head out.2) Massively reduce my booze intake (which will help point 1)3) Get out and climb more.
1) fit some sort of effective training to my weird life.2) as I now seem to be almost exclusively a boulderer, boulder in company. 3) finish my efforts at the Marchlyn boulder, so I can pass it onto the next generation 4) maybe, just maybe get it together enough to do my Clegir boulder project
Hmm. Aims for 2018 - At this point I'd say:#1 - Local Sport Projects - 2 - Party wall and Byron Glacier. Both in the 8c/+ish range and will take extraordinary effort to get fit and strong enough to make these feasible. Opened the account on Party Wall project - basically a v12/13ish boulder. Done all but one move, so looks possible.#2 - Find, bolt and send 2-3 more good sport projects in the 8a-b ish range. One new 8b done, now on to the next#3 - Step up the business. So far so good. Two new multiyear contracts signed, targeting two more by the end of the year.
Forgot to add mine15 proper (and independent) 7C+s and above. Probably too overambitious, but isn't that the point.
2018:- Kilnsey roof project - If impractical (weather is a possible limiting factor): Net reduction in number of bolted, but uncompleted projects- Get married
keep 2018 fairly low on big life changing events and keep focused on climbing.
1. Get an overseas trip booked.
2. Climb 7C on the Leeds Depot 50' board.
3. More of a life goal than just 2018, but I'd love to complete the This is Yorkshire tick list.
4. Finish off some of the high 7s on grit that aren't my normal style. Things like Lager3, Ben's Groove Sit and Underworld are high on the list here.
5. Climb 8A on UK lime and in Wales.