Quote from: 36chambers on December 11, 2017, 09:54:43 pmQuote from: Danny on December 11, 2017, 04:39:55 pmFor the bouldering grade, I'd think it should be something like your *general* max grade. i.e. a grade you've climbed a good handful of, not your probably-soft best effort, with one move that totally suited you, 5 years ago.Quote from: Coops_13 on December 11, 2017, 08:44:23 pmPull-ups: ~25One-armers: 1Max grade: 7B+ 7AFixed that for you 4 or 5 not that?
Quote from: Danny on December 11, 2017, 04:39:55 pmFor the bouldering grade, I'd think it should be something like your *general* max grade. i.e. a grade you've climbed a good handful of, not your probably-soft best effort, with one move that totally suited you, 5 years ago.Quote from: Coops_13 on December 11, 2017, 08:44:23 pmPull-ups: ~25One-armers: 1Max grade: 7B+ 7AFixed that for you
For the bouldering grade, I'd think it should be something like your *general* max grade. i.e. a grade you've climbed a good handful of, not your probably-soft best effort, with one move that totally suited you, 5 years ago.
Pull-ups: ~25One-armers: 1Max grade: 7B+ 7A
Remus, you measure so many variables in your tests, have you every tried a PCA analysis?
Quote from: Stu Littlefair on December 13, 2017, 12:36:20 pmRemus, you measure so many variables in your tests, have you every tried a PCA analysis?Yep In the models I've put together it wasn't particularly helpful, though, as it basically just picks out the factors that we already know are useful (finger strength, max moves etc.) and pretty much ignores lots of the other factors. My personal opinion is that there's so much variability in the underlying measure of climbing ability (i.e. grades) that it makes it very difficult to investigate effects that are relatively subtle. That's not to say those other factors aren't interesting to consider of course, but we're not at the stage where we can say "You could climb 9b, you just need to do an extra 10 moves on the lattice board, another 6 pull ups and hold a front lever for more than 10 secs."Maybe one day everyone will start using UKC/8a.nu and we'll be able to use something other than 'best redpoint' as a measure of climbing ability!
We collect some similar data as part of the Lattice Training assessments, though it's not a good indicator of climbing ability in our experience.I threw together a quick scatter plot of a subset of data that happened to be at hand. n=58.We don't collect data on one armers because the vast majority of people can't do them.My opinion (not lattice endorsed) is that if you're in the 15-20 bracket there's very little point smashing out loads of pull ups. Maybe if you're significantly under that there's a case to be made for doing pull ups as a conditioning sorta exercise.