For sustained smearing sequences it's as much about suspension of disbelief as technique.
-learning to fine-tune your arousal state (and to recognize symptoms of being over or under optimum). I find this point to be more suble (and important for success) than for other font bouldering styles.
Quote from: ghisino on November 09, 2017, 11:06:32 pm-learning to fine-tune your arousal state (and to recognize symptoms of being over or under optimum). I find this point to be more suble (and important for success) than for other font bouldering styles.This is a good point. The sort of aggressive approach that can work on steep rock isn't going to get to you anywhere here. Likewise getting over-excited (oh my god I'm going to do it!) often tenses you up and/or shakes you off. That and keeping your heels low.
Oh, I thought the arousal he referred to was to control how close you can keep your body to the rock via an extra appendage.
-foot, calf and legs: having a little a lot of extra strenght is a big bonus. If moves don't feel desperate on a muscular level, it is much easier to concentrate on the subtle details.
Quote from: ghisino on November 09, 2017, 11:06:32 pm-foot, calf and legs: having a little a lot of extra strenght is a big bonus. If moves don't feel desperate on a muscular level, it is much easier to concentrate on the subtle details.Wad point to ghisino for slab knowledge.Regarding leg strength, it's suprising the number of climbers who can't do a single leg squat / press / pistol easily and fluently. This would seem an absolute minimum for slab climbing.
Is Etive pure friction? (I wish I'd made it there).