The Moonboard is completely nails, how anyone climbs harder than 6B+ on there is beyond me. Completely exposes just how weak I am (which is a lot more than I previously thought).
Cheers guys, a few of the first moves I tried on problems were like you said nai at full stretch and the only thing to do next was cut loose then bring a foot up high to match where the lower hand is, this sort of thing seemed to be required a lot and felt really hard!Think I'll try and pick away at some of the easier stuff on the app.
11.7-9 (a year high but not fat)Will probably just do Moffatrocity sessions till it gets wet seeing as I'm making progress and it will be good PE training for Greece.
Quote from: shark on November 06, 2017, 01:18:29 pm11.7-9 (a year high but not fat)Will probably just do Moffatrocity sessions till it gets wet seeing as I'm making progress and it will be good PE training for Greece.Incredible that the thing you're always keenest on doing is the best training for your upcoming goal. Most people would have guessed at sweating it out in the wall on a high volume of long, pumpy routes but turns out it's doing a traverse that's a few moves long.
Quote from: nai on November 06, 2017, 03:04:05 pmQuote from: shark on November 06, 2017, 01:18:29 pm11.7-9 (a year high but not fat)Will probably just do Moffatrocity sessions till it gets wet seeing as I'm making progress and it will be good PE training for Greece.Incredible that the thing you're always keenest on doing is the best training for your upcoming goal. Most people would have guessed at sweating it out in the wall on a high volume of long, pumpy routes but turns out it's doing a traverse that's a few moves long. Covering that base by doing a stamina session once a week - currently on Tin Of but could be AeroCap on systems board or the circuit board at the Depot. Moffatrocity is longer than a few moves. 19 hand moves currently unless I can cut it down by 3.
Quote from: Luke Owens on November 06, 2017, 10:31:29 amThe Moonboard is completely nails, how anyone climbs harder than 6B+ on there is beyond me. Completely exposes just how weak I am (which is a lot more than I previously thought). I think it exposes a weakness rather than general weakness. There's a lot of long moves and the feet-follow-hands rule means often off just one foothold and often having to get feet high or be very stretched. If you're on the shorter side problems can be over at the first move when the initial pull is just as far as the setter can reach. Useful tool, worth keeping working on it but don't immediately label yourself weak just because you're not used to the style.
Is tin of really stamina training do you think? I always find it more of an awkward traverse, rest, sharp crux, followed by a load of slab climbing with rests.
Thumbprint (which Colin told me after he probably should have given 7b -.-)
skipping breakfast
Murph wad for fuckin not forgetting fingerboard again
Quote from: Murph on November 06, 2017, 01:35:43 pmskipping breakfast FYI This is what sumo wrestlers do to slow down their metabolism.
(peak set tunes - the only constant is change by as I lay dying- obv not angry enough!)
Quote from: measles23 on November 07, 2017, 03:04:48 pm(peak set tunes - the only constant is change by as I lay dying- obv not angry enough!)Get some Slayer on beast!
Quote from: TobyD on November 07, 2017, 08:56:41 amIs tin of really stamina training do you think? I always find it more of an awkward traverse, rest, sharp crux, followed by a load of slab climbing with rests.Not my experience - I usually get a solid pump on the"slab" - but you are the Stamlord