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System board setting (Read 2444 times)

Alex Smurthwaite

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System board setting
October 26, 2017, 01:45:33 pm
Just bought a set of screw on crusher board holds, designed to be set as a system board. My board is completely random and ive never set in a system style. Anyone got any tips or pictures of the best way to set them. Dont want to cock it up and have to move them all
Cheers

jwi

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#1 Re: System board setting
October 26, 2017, 02:15:19 pm
I don't know, but here's Alex Huber's article on the System board
http://www.escalada.verticon.ro/antrenament/dl/strain.pdf

shoon

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wsmith

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#3 Re: System board setting
October 29, 2017, 08:23:32 am
A well set board has a range of hold types distributed evenly across its area. I find the easiest way to do this is to separate out all your holds into each type (crimps, edges, good pinches, bad pinches, undercuts etc.) and then put each hold type on one at a time. i.e. put all the crimps on, then all the pinches etc. That way you'll have a range on hold types in every area of the board.

In terms of getting the symmetry right - measure out the vertical centre line and draw it on with a spirit level. Put a hold on one side and then measure across to the centre line and copy that measurement on the opposite side for that hold's pair, using a spirit level to get them level. To get the angle of the holds right I use a second smaller spirit level with a few different angles on it.

Probes

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#4 Re: System board setting
October 29, 2017, 02:42:07 pm
For a true system style approach you would need to replicate the move and hold at least twice up the board. So you are repeating your movement pattern and grip type. I would decide on what you are wanting to target, a good starting point is a weakness. Mine would be shouldering gastons, so I'd build a move to mimic this that is pretty close to my limit, and duplicate it up the board. You could also combine targets... Shouldery gastons into a pinch for example.. Infinite combinations obviously.
The advantage of having your own set up is you can constantly tweak the set up, you'll be very lucky to set it up and be happy with it first go.
Once you have an exercise set on one side then mirror it.

Setting up as mentioned above with a spirit level is a good call, you could also set out a grid of 100mm squares using a chalk line (just mark up the top, bottom and sides and draw the string across), you can get chalk lines for not much more than a fiver of eBay or a builders merchant. Then use the grid to locate holds.




Alex Smurthwaite

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#5 Re: System board setting
October 29, 2017, 05:39:40 pm
Cheers guys. Setting tomorrow so ill give that a go

 

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