Was there an app mentioned where you could take a picture of a board and record problems/the holds used to keep a log of what you've done?
Back to the fingerboard again; I've never really managed a noticeable gain in finger strength in the past so hopefully if I stick at it for longer something might happen...
Quote from: Luke Owens on October 18, 2017, 09:15:37 amBack to the fingerboard again; I've never really managed a noticeable gain in finger strength in the past so hopefully if I stick at it for longer something might happen...I saw the results of a study recently where two groups of endurance athletes had trained for 3 months pre race season and had their gains measured. One group then dropped the strength work during the season while the other performed a single session per week. After 3 months (I think) the group that continued training had maintained pretty much all of their gains (and were recording better race times, most notably maintaining higher pace in the second half of their races) whilst the other group had lost all of their gains (took a lot of willpower not to capitalize ALL there). So it seems, on that evidence, we should just never stop hanging.Edit: And regarding not seeing gains previously, try a base phase of repeater style hangs for around six weeks then switch to a max hangs program. If that doesn't work buy some hexes and grow a beard.
If that doesn't work buy some hexes do more fingerboarding and grow a beard.
What's the idea behind the period of repeaters first? (Is there a thread on here about it?) I've never really done repeaters, maybe did a bit years ago.
Quick question, I can't one arm anything, even a jug so I'm guessing I need to do shoulder girdle strength stuff if I want to be able to do this.The most measurable way in the gym seems to be to put a handle on the lat pull down machine and pull with one arm. As it's on a cable there can be twisting, when starting palms out it feels easier to twist the handle to face the palm inward to lock off the last bit of the motion but from a shoulder girdle strengthening point of view is it better to star palm facing out the whole time? Also, should I aim to pull the maximum I can for 5reps? 3reps? 1rep?Cheers
I've never really managed a noticeable gain in finger strength in the past so hopefully if I stick at it for longer something might happen...
T: 1on 2off Aerocap for 10minsMax Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 4 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms1 x 10s on 20mm open crimp
T: 1on 2off Aerocap for 10minsMax Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 2 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms20mm edge, half crimp, R1: 9s, R2: 8s, R3: 8s
Quick question, I can't one arm anything, even a jug so I'm guessing I need to do shoulder girdle strength stuff if I want to be able to do this.
So you are hanging 4 times for 10s on a mix of holds, and then once for 10s - 5 hangs total?
And then two days later you did another 5 hangs but this time 3 were exclusively on the 20mm edge.
When you do your hangs are you hanging like a bag of rocks shoulders touching ears etc. or are your shoulders fully engaged, scapular retracted & neck tall? I struggled in the past with going from (poor form) max hangs with lots of added weight to any one arm work, and the main reason was poor shoulder stability. It's a weakness I am only now taking seriously by doing things like scapular retractions on a bar - which is what everyone should be doing anyway. And for what it's worth, when I fail a hang these days it's usually because the shoulders have dropped - I used to just hang with shoulders dropped throughout! Anyway, that 's my n=1 good luck with making progress.
Are the scapular retractions just hanging from a bar and sort of just engaging the first part of a pull up?