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Kilnsey (Read 4457 times)

Bonjoy

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Kilnsey
September 13, 2004, 04:23:58 pm
Have oft been to Kilnsey doing the route thing and quite often see boulderers (most recently Burns and Nige)doing stuff under the lefthand side of the crag.  Looks to be some good probs on pockets, big slopey edges and pinchs. If it's owt like the routes it must be pretty bo as dirty limestone goes. Has anyone ever documented anything for this place, there must be quite a few independant probs, some hard projects and loads of eliminates. Would be good to know about if you get rained off the grit too. Anyone got any info?

Doylo

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#1 Kilnsey
September 13, 2004, 04:57:49 pm
Paul Craven and Steve Dunning have sussed it all out, they boulder there a lot i think, don't think any of its documented though. Try an get in touch with one of them.

Pantontino

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#2 Kilnsey
September 13, 2004, 10:58:03 pm
I used to boulder there quite a lot about 10 years ago, especially if it was too sweaty on the grit, or when I got bored of sport climbing.

The landings are much more pleasant nowadays (As Doylo say, I believe Yorky is the man to thank).

Steve Dunning and Neil Sugden showed myself and Mr Katz around the newer stuff recently.

None of it has ever been documented (save that the Mandala Traverse is quite well known), and to be honest it is all pretty obvious.

Not worth travelling a long way for IMO (I don't think it is as good as Parasella's for example), but a good option if you are in the area and fancy trying something new.

Nigel

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#3 Kilnsey
September 13, 2004, 11:48:17 pm
Jon, just for you here is my expert opinion of Kilnsey, having not done any of the problems. Two words:

Quality (rock)
Eliminate

Problems through Mandela traverse can be done pure, which makes them all lineless except one or two, and all about V5 except one or two. Hardest pure thing there looks about V9/10 but really good, Buchanan's thing at the LH end. Whole place lends itself very well to eliminates. The rock is brill. All in all not worth driving from Sheffield, but an awesome crag if you live anywhere in Yorkshire.

Bonjoy

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#4 Kilnsey
September 14, 2004, 08:53:59 am
Would be good if someone did a rough top I reckon, it gives you a few pointers and ideas at these eliminate venues.

squeek

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#5 Kilnsey
September 14, 2004, 09:20:25 am
So the bouldering's at the left hand end then?  I might pop down next weekend and give it a look.

Pantontino

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#6 Kilnsey
September 16, 2004, 09:15:46 pm
Just loaded some piccies. I suppose they'll be up tommorrow?

Bubba

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#7 Kilnsey
September 16, 2004, 09:19:49 pm
Simon, sorry to be a pain, but could you upload them into the gallery instead?

http://ukbouldering.com/gallery - you just need to create an album folder and then upload the pics.

If you can't be arsed then I'll move them tomoz....

Pantontino

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#8 Kilnsey
September 16, 2004, 11:32:19 pm
Right, managed to get a few things loaded, subject to approval by Bubba of course.

Bubba

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#9 Kilnsey
September 17, 2004, 08:06:38 am
Thanks Si - nice pics.

The approval process is only there to stop people loading stupid stuff up and not coz I'm a photo snob  :wink:

Though I'll have to compress the full size ones a bit coz they're v.large file sizes...they'll still look fine though.

 

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