[csl]

STG - end of August

stick to board sessions for whole month
7B
Do 2 board projects. 0/2

MTG - end of Year

something off the lifetime list

Monday

Arch B1 - Board

Repeated 2 old projects, came close to repeating another
Worked on 3 harder projects, completed an easier version of one. Made progress on the second. Didnt make much progress on the third.

Tuesday

Arch Biscuit

Some moderate stuff on the comp wall.
Got absolutely schooled by the 55º board. I'm so shit on this angle when I can't get heels or toes behind stuff. Coops_13 was looking strong though!

Wednesday

nothing

Thursday

Arch B1

Reasonable session - got close to a Green, made up some new problems on the board and did one.
Also exposed more weaknesses trying some of the slab problems. Perhaps my lack of flexibility holding me back more than I thought.

Friday

nothing

Saturday

nothing

Sunday

nothing

Ok week - lots on the board. I'm totally shit on steep stuff without trickery, might try and work on this in the coming months as its sure to make me stronger. No doubt linked to a weak core.

Off to Wales with Footwork tomorrow, my main goal is to feature on the living_with_wads Instagram, but I'd be pleased if I manage a 7B as well.

[36chambers]

STG: stronger fingers
MTG: stronger fingers
LTG: stronger fingers

M: Indoors. 1 arm max hangs on largest metolius rung. 8 sets. Quick play on 50.
T:
W: Indoors. Reasonable session on the 50, slowly getting back into it. Found out I can easily hold and do pull ups (crimped and open) on the Lopez 6 mm hold.
T:
F: Late afternoon session at Anston Stones. Climbed Alpha 7B, Reservation 7B and Twenty Four Point Nine 7A+. Wanted to get on Ebola, but dropping the pinky on the LH pocket didn't feel good after having to do it on Alpha.
S:
S: Showery in Nidderdale so Anston's again. Climbed Soul Crusher 7C on the quick, ver enjoyable climbing. Had a play on Black Tufa 7B+, but struggled to find a sequence that felt feasible.   

[duncan]

STG/MTG/LTG - tbc


M -
T - Great PE session at the Westway- first indoor 6c flash for 20 years. This was my indoor grade back when I was climbing easy E5s.
W -
T -
F - Day trip to High Tor to meet up with HG. Warmed up on the very good Saga Lout and Endgame, onsighting both with little difficulty. Got on Supersonic again, made it to the victory jug this time, swung onto this and dislocated my left shoulder. Had to jump off, tweaking my ankle. Lowered like a sack of potatoes, just as the pain started in earnest. Derby MRT found us after what felt like the longest and most painful hour (?) of my life. Try not to do this kind of thing as everyone is driving home on Friday afternoon. I got some paracetamol and, somewhat later, Entonox. These very slightly took the edge off the pain. After another indeterminate period a paramedic gave me morphine. This was slightly more effective but needed a couple of top-ups. At some point I was helicoptered to the Northern General, though I was flying with the fairies by then. The shoulder was painlessly relocated and instantly much more comfortable. The ankle was not fractured but, in an incidental finding, is somewhat arthritic. News to me but may explain the ankle swelling and foot pains I've had over the last 10 years.

Derby MRT Facebook page has a good account of events and some photos. The (refreshingly positive) comments contain some quite impressive photos and videos of the helicopter from onlookers.

S - Rested up at shark’s mansion.
S - Made my way back to London.

Shoulder is still quite sore, doesn't want to move, and has the characteristic arm numbness of an axillary nerve palsy. How this will all pan out in the long term I'm not sure. Assuming no other damage and full nerve recovery the outlook is good. I've had a few acute injuries in the last ten years and always recovered pretty well. Dislocation recurrence rates are low in the elderly. I’m trying not to think about the less good scenarios.

Intricately laid plans for the summer need revising.

Sincere thanks to Hugo, Derby MRT, the flyers, Northern General A&E, shark and co., and my long-suffering family.

[jwi]

  Get well soon!

[TobyD]

 Lowered like a sack of potatoes, just as the pain started in earnest. Derby MRT found us after what felt like the longest and most painful hour (?) of my life. Try not to do this kind of thing as everyone is driving home on Friday afternoon.

This sounds like many accidents a big chunk of really, really bad luck. Really hoping you get back to it soon, plenty of closed chain easy movement ... you know better than me anyway! Very glad you didn't suffer worse injury. The most important question is, do you take the tick? were you on the jug and messing about, or barely on and lost it at the limit?Stay strong, I'll give you a bell if I'm in London. T

[Falling Down]

Blimey Duncan - glad you're safe and sound.  Wishing you a speedy recovery.

[cheque]

Sounds like an epic Duncan- I hope it all sorts itself out OK.

[Duma]

Bloody hell Duncan! Hope recovery goes well.

Goals:
Fix shoulder
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Left shoulder, improved quite a lot by Friday - the wall this week will be the real test though.
Sleep: OK.
71kg.

M: Nothing, shoulder rehab.(~7.5hrs, 2dk)
T: Nothing, shoulder rehab. (8hrs, 3dk)
W: Nothing.(~7.5hrs, 2dk)
T: Nothing, shoulder rehab. (~7hrs, 1dk)
F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)
S: Drive to Pembroke, First bit of trad in many years - fun wobble up some HVS near No Man's Zawn getting sore calves and trying to remember how to place gear. went and did Perfect Pitch 6a+ DWS after, amazing bit of climbing!(~6.5hrs, 5dk)
S: Pembroke, seconded Ro up Stacked Against then did Cupids Bow, added excitement by not really having any gear big enough to protect it. Finished up as the rain started. Ace weekend. (~7.5hrs, 2dk)

Fun week but no training, but the shoulder seems much better, though whether this is through not climbing rather than recovery will be tested this week. Need to get weight back below 70kg, been creeping up since SA.

[nai]

Bad news duncan, heal well.

STG ?
MTG (end of year)>= 8a RP, 7b OS, E4, 7C
LTG > MTGs
MT - Wales trip as per last week
W Absolutely fucking knackered
Th Absolutely Knackered
F Knackered
S 3x10mins LI AeroCap
S 3x10mins LI AeroCap

Not going to be doing much for a while now, I have 10 days before we go on holiday when there'll be no chance (or tbh, inclination) to climb for 2.5 weeks.  I have a slightly tweaky PIP and sore A0 (although curiously they were fine while away last week) so should probably rest up anyway. Although having four whole weeks off just seems like too much.

[remus]

F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

Me and M probably drove past you! Somewhere in that 13mile northbound traffic jam I guess...

[dunnyg]

Been meaning to get involved for ages

stg:        twenty four point 9 and blue circles @anston
mtg:      7C, golden acre and back
ltg         8A, fit for exped, (!)

M: Depot
t: Short run
w: Depot - good go on the 35 board
th: rest
F: Anston, did blind bat, couldnt do the end of alpha, skin v thin on index!
s: widdop - dirty headpoint and finally got on umplebys arete.
s: Anston- Loads of 6's on the wave wall, nearly did the vert 7a circles. Very malham like

[Duma]

F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

Me and M probably drove past you! Somewhere in that 13mile northbound traffic jam I guess...

Thought you were stopping in Avon Gorge? I even dug out the link to the topo for you (while sat in stationary traffic...) How was Berry Head?

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Dolomites! Third day on, bad skin and tired. Failed on a 7b+ traverse that was made of multiple 7b+ moves. The guy who gave us the tour and the beta clearly had never done it. Lots of walking.
Tue - Dolomites! Fourth day on, even worse skin and more tired. Schoolboy error, didn't bring food at the boulders. Idiot. Failed on another two 7b+'s that, this time, consisted of a single 7b+ move. Again, our host didn't  have a clue about what those problems were like. Should have tried the second one first, because I got very close on it despite being smashed. Lots of walking.
Wed - rest. Traveled back.
Thu - 34 degrees inside, 40 outside. So I did weights inside, and boxing bag in the garage. It is incredibly difficult to train with these temps.
Fri - cleans, up to PB of 67 kg. Then 61 kg (90%) x 3 x 3. EMOM pull ups + 10 kg 5 x 10.
Sat - rest. 250 km of turns with the bike. Exhausted.
Sun - rest. 190 kms of turns with the bike. Exhausted. Forearms smashed.

[Mike Highbury]

Intricately laid plans for the summer need revising.

The photos are rubbish but you got a selfie with the chopper pilot, right?

[Murph]

Mend well Duncan. Were your shoulders already compromised/weak or did this come out of the blue?

67kgs   
M-
T-works. All irn brus in 1 hr 10m.
Fingerboard max hangs. 4x10sx19mm w/+40kg open, 3x10sx14mm w/24kgs open. Great session. 10/10.
W-physio for Achilles injury. Apparently going from couch to 45k a week in two months was a case of too much too soon.
T-rehab run #1. 1m on/off x3. Works. Yellows. All but one in 1hr30.
F-rehab run #2. 2m on/off x3. Kettlebells 16kgs. Rubicon with kids. Ticked porthole traverse reverse - first 7A that wasn't a repeat this year.
S-rehab run #3. 3m on/off x3. All good. Kettlebells 16kgs. Checked out Toms Cave for the first time. Someone had done a  under Hannibal start so that put me off. Rubicon. Working on three tier test piece which gets 7B apparently. It doesn't play to my strengths at all but should be a good one to work while kids are feeding ducks. Also now seen porthole traverse reverse into low tier into debris groove gets 7C/8a+ but not sure how eliminatey it is for that grade. Still worth getting stuck in as it's a much nicer venue than Tom's!!
S- Fingers trashed. Feelings good.

On the up I reckon. Need to actually put effort into recovery - something about supercompensation. Nice to go out and get stuff done but not if it's at the cost of a damaging ligaments and stuff.

[andy popp]

Really sorry to hear the news Duncan. Wishing you quick healing!

[tomtom]

That sounds grim Duncan. Heal fast.

[iain]

That's rubbish Duncan, really hope it heals fast and well.

[Nibile]

P.s. Heal fast Duncan!

[yetix]

First time doing this but hoping it will help keep me a little more focused with training following a few injuries and far too much time spent outside!

67kg

STG: left middle finger and right wrist back to 100%
MTG: Any Hole is a Goal, Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)
LTG: 7c+

M:
T: pinks upto 28 at the depot (had issues with 21 however (pinch grip is incredibily weak so I've made so pinch blocks to address this)) - finger felt inflamed from this session despite not crimping too hard
W:
T: Antagonists on TRX + Lever work
F: Running
S:
S: antagonists on TRX + Lever work + very light bouldering to see how my finger was coping

[SA Chris]

F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

Surely you've lived in the SW for long enough now to know not to travel in a Friday?

M- Bouldering at wall. Felt OK, skin still crap after spending 2 weeks in pool and sea.
T - Not much.
W - a day full of hope. Promise of some surf and a sunny day. Glorious til 5 then pissed down, all rock wet, waves crap, and bouldering wall stripped for competition reset. Went home and sulked.
T - can't recall, a bit of weights and core.
F - nothing
S - went to knockburn loch. Did 4 k on SUP, with and without kids. cycled home, 28 km first road bike since hols. Avoided rain by 5 mins.
S - did railway relay - 42 k along old railway line - team of 5, of mixed age and ability. ran 2.5 k leg and 6 k leg. team finished in 3:47. Good fun.

[Duma]

F: Nothing, drive back from Cornwall (7.5 fucking hours. I hate the M5, and google navigation) (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

Surely you've lived in the SW for long enough now to know not to travel in a Friday?

don't always have a choice though 

[Teaboy]

Bad luck Duncan, hope you make a swift recovery. Did you have to drop off the route at the very end of the run out or did you get something in first?

[duncan]

Thanks for the thoughts everyone.

Mend well Duncan. Were your shoulders already compromised/weak or did this come out of the blue?

Always a bit weak and prone to tweaks. I had a SLAP tear on my other one twenty years ago.

The photos are rubbish but you got a selfie with the chopper pilot, right?

I was off my head and strapped to a stretcher. Hugo was useless and typically went for something tasteful and arty. How the hell is this supposed to boost my Instagram following?

Did you have to drop off the route at the very end of the run out or did you get something in first?

The "run out" is no big deal really.

BETA
There is an obvious bomber wire at the rest after the Flaky crux. A little higher there is a less obvious but very good wire. A couple of moves later there is a slightly specialist item, this was a meter or two below my feet when I jumped off. This held but there is a lot of rope stretch so you end up going a way. There are potentially other, more specialist, gear opportunities higher still.

DETAILED BETA
Rock 6, turquoise Walnut 8 sideways, purple totem in a pocket, possible skyhook on the jug but you really shouldn't fall here...

[Wood FT]

Great picture. Hope you heal up well and good.