[Doylo]

Anyone got these? Anyone figured out some effective routines /sets?

[Nibile]

Koyamada did.

[Nibile]

Jokes apart, I'm heading to the Dolomites at the moment, will post something based on my experience next week!

[Fultonius]

Jokes apart, I'm heading to the Dolomites at the moment, will post something based on my experience next week!

WTF, but, there's REAL actual CLIMBING there!  I wonder if I'll hear the power screams from Scotland!

[Nibile]

Jokes apart, I'm heading to the Dolomites at the moment, will post something based on my experience next week!

WTF, but, there's REAL actual CLIMBING there!  I wonder if I'll hear the power screams from Scotland!

What? Real climbing? They only told me about a fingerboard in a nice setting!!!

[Nibile]

Mofo.
 

[Bradders]

Bump.

Anyone have any good knowledge or suggestions on grip position for the micros?

I ask because I find using small holds absolutely nails, and have reached a plateau with max weighted two arm hangs on larger holds as I don't fancy hanging more than 30kg off myself. I also think there's likely to be a more direct transfer between using the micros and using small holds outside.

I did a benchmarking session on the 8mm earlier in the week and felt like the best, most active way to hang was in half crimp but with thumb engaged on the side of the hold, I.e. not wrapped on top and therefore fingers definitely not in full crimp. Anyone tried using this before? Or suggest an alternative?

[measles23]

After looking very closely at photos of Koyamada and some others - Varian too I think, I’ve adopted something similar: Front 3 in half crimp, little finger open, thumb stabilising but not crimping, though I stabilise my thumb against my other fingers, not the side of the hold.
This prehension feels closest to what I use on rock, and it avoids the tweakiness of true full crimped fingerboarding.
I’m a big fan of the open little finger too; I always use to find that crimping it pushed the other fingers slightly out of optimum angle, and that the point of failure was opening up of my littles, rather than failure of the full unit..

[gollum]

Last time I used these edges I was on the 6mm edge with added weight and ended up puncturing the tip of my thumb.
Tend to find my grip is more open in the Transgression 6mm, although never tried to add weight.

[jwi]

I got to try them briefly two weeks ago and I found the 6mm very well made. As gollum say, on Transgression you can get by with dragging the 6mm, which is not what I want to train. I wouldn't use my thumb on the side of the hold or on the side of the index finger, because my index fingers are ridiculously weak so I wouldn't want to let my relatively speaking stronger middle pair take up the slack. I would rather take weigh off with a pulley. On the other hand, my pinkies are fairly strong and I'm fine dragging them.

Before I order my own set: I am worried that the skin will roll on the tips. How do people find that they are when doing hangs close to or during performance weeks?

[thekettle]

I'm using them with the thumb completely disengaged (pinkie drag, 3 finger half crimp). I can hang 5-10kg more with the thumb involved but find my index DIP joint hyperextends which irritates it. I'm using them to try and stimulate pulp growth in my tips and for a bit of variety! If I do more than about 4 consecutive max hangs on the 8 or 6 my skins suffers (rolls), so cycle between the 10,8 and 6 with various loads.
I reckon a rounded 20mm rung for skin-friendly strength/repeaters, plus BM micros for (possible) pulp growth is the perfect combo.

[36chambers]

I haven't spent that much time on the 6 mm's, but regardless of how I seem to start, my first three fingers always end up in a fully boned crimp position once weighted, and that's with the thumbs hanging well away from everything.

[Bradders]

Thanks all for the helpful info.

Koyamada

Having watched various videos of him campussing and double dynoing between them, I'm not sure he's the most representative example!

I had another go this evening and, bizarrely, found I could hang more weight on the 8mms with thumb completely disengaged (f3 half crimp, pinky drag) than I managed last week pinching the sides... the big difference was that where I normally do max hangs with a straight but engaged arm, I had to use a 90' or so bend so I felt as though I was almost using my arms to smush my skin onto the hold as much as I was using finger strength. Not sure what to make of that!

Hoping as Kettle says that either way at least there'll be some pulp development.