Are to take from this that campus boards are actually an anachronistic waste of space in most walls then?
As TB and Ged have attested if you want to do Tuppence or hard problems at the tor it's appropriate. If you climb say sport 7c and want to do a non specific 8a as a totally hypothetical example my opinion is that you're wasting your time.
If you climb say sport 7c and want to do a non specific 8a as a totally hypothetical example my opinion is that you're wasting your time.
Quote from: TobyD on April 03, 2019, 01:37:37 pm If you climb say sport 7c and want to do a non specific 8a as a totally hypothetical example my opinion is that you're wasting your time.So on that hypothetical theme, what if I sport climb 7c and I hypothetically want to climb an 8a that breaks down 4 bolt 6b+ to a good rest followed by a hard, technical, tensiony 12 move sequence (with a hard clip at move 4), followed by another good rest and 6a to the top, and the thing that is stopping me is a move off two crimps where you really have to generate a lot of power at move 11, is there any merit then? Given that in this hypothetical situation I’ve been doing a shit load of PE training and am a lot fitter than ever before, not feeling even a smige of pump at the first rest, when previously I’d been getting there slightly pumped, recovering and then feeling strong to the crux but trying whack beta?
Finally, building on the achieving 1-4-7 mentioned earlier, I would also advocate 1-3-6 as a progression but then 2-4-7 which I found much harder but once I cracked it 1-4-7 came quickly as the aim and the body position were identical and I believed in reaching the seventh rung.
Quote from: monkoffunk on April 03, 2019, 01:58:40 pmQuote from: TobyD on April 03, 2019, 01:37:37 pm If you climb say sport 7c and want to do a non specific 8a as a totally hypothetical example my opinion is that you're wasting your time.So on that hypothetical theme, what if I sport climb 7c and I hypothetically want to climb an 8a that breaks down 4 bolt 6b+ to a good rest followed by a hard, technical, tensiony 12 move sequence (with a hard clip at move 4), followed by another good rest and 6a to the top, and the thing that is stopping me is a move off two crimps where you really have to generate a lot of power at move 11, is there any merit then? Given that in this hypothetical situation I’ve been doing a shit load of PE training and am a lot fitter than ever before, not feeling even a smige of pump at the first rest, when previously I’d been getting there slightly pumped, recovering and then feeling strong to the crux but trying whack beta? MoF, I may be late to this but thought I'd just mention something that might help as I recall this feeling of frustration well from last year! For me it went something along the lines of recovering well at the rest, doing well over half the long PE crux sequence feeling totally fine and suddenly experiencing a dramatic powerout towards the end of the second third of the PE sequence. The thing I established was that I'd been fit enough for a long time but the problem was in my head; I'd failed there so many times that my body sort of expected it. Several times I experienced an amazing sense of flow through the first bit of the PE section, barely trying, before falling off without really understanding what happened.The key to it for me was hammering the crux while totally, totally boxed at the end of the session, trying as hard as I possibly could, and discovering how much improvement could be made when I climbed quickly, efficiently and had the belief that I could do the moves when tired. I came back the next day and boshed it out, and remember feeling good halfway through the sequence and knowing I could do it because I had experience of doing it totally boxed the previous day.Campusing might help but you sound close so you're probably already physically capable! Just thought worth mentioning. Apologies for the opp topic; interesting thoughts above and I'm going to continue messing around with campusing as its something new and gives a good benchmark indicator at the very least.
Quote from: gollum on April 03, 2019, 01:40:36 pmFinally, building on the achieving 1-4-7 mentioned earlier, I would also advocate 1-3-6 as a progression but then 2-4-7 which I found much harder but once I cracked it 1-4-7 came quickly as the aim and the body position were identical and I believed in reaching the seventh rung. ????1-3-6 is the same thing as 2-4-7 no?