[shark]

11.4-5

M. Eve Finger board repeaters (5x5x5) Drags. Finger rolls, Austrian deadlifts, gaston db press

T.

W. PM Tortured by Louise but seems to have freed up my left shoulder which had a longstanding restricted ROM 

T. As Monday except half crimps  for repeaters

F.

S. PM Quick dash to Foundry and some autobelay aerocap. Eve Climbing unit in Derby bouldering

S. Hangover

Rain stopped outdoor play this week. Was hoping to try out the new fan. Back to Malham tomorrow to try Mescalito again.   

 

[tomtom]

Gracias el Sharkolio.

M
T
We: Ousels nest. Working meeting palms (7C). Good problem - make progress but rh hold is very sharp and I only get 5-6 goes before it's about to split. Back off.
Thu
F: Wilton 3 - climbing shit - but manage two new 7A's. both wall/slabs and crimps. Fail massively on a 6C and find a 6A+ harder than the 7's...
Sa
Su Back to Ousels. Really crap session. Split tip after 40 min...

A tough week - short times to get out and rubbish weather has meant it's been tricky.

Anyway - off to Lakes tomorrow - bought a smaller pram so I can hopefully get a bouldering mat in the car [emoji106][emoji106]

[T_B]

M -
T - Foundry circuit board. Black 7b and worked out the moves on the red 8a. Tired still from w/e.
W - Lunch run. Pm: homeboard (good session)
T - Lunch Autobelays. 3 x 5, 4 x 6a+, 2 x 6b, 3 x 6c, 6 x new pink 7a on main wall, 1 x green 7a
F - PM Castleton fell race. Ridiculously fast final 3k nearly finished me off.
S - PM homeboard. Short sess. Felt light.
S - PM Long run taking in the Grinah Stones - keen to come back with rock shoes. Well 'out there'.

Couldn't be bothered battling the weather this week to try and climb outside.
I am light.
Hopefully some trad mid-week next week.

[user deactivated]

Hey Tom, grinah stones.. what a spot! Had a wander out there with Eric a few years ago to check it out and was surprised at the quality of the rock. How do you find running and climbing? I can't do both well. Or either relatively.

Tue- boulder prob reps and tried endurance work after (got trashed)

Thurs- endurance reps

Sun- moat buttress (very busy) warmed up on a 6c+, some nice moves but looser than the Dolomites. Noticed helmets now popular sport climbing - very wise

Tried 'bigger thud?' To the left of let the tripe increase sharing the same start. Worked the moves and had a redpoint - got to undercut move mid crux and gassed out. Harder than tripe by half a grade? Tried to retro flash most people - got to the crux and gassed out again aargh. Had a throat infection all week so putting it down to that haha.

Looking for a partner for Thursday sport or trad - not on fbook anymore so can't use the group. Anyone keen?

[T_B]

Hey Tom, grinah stones.. what a spot! Had a wander out there with Eric a few years ago to check it out and was surprised at the quality of the rock. How do you find running and climbing? I can't do both well. Or either relatively.

I was up there quite late yesterday evening on a long run, so hadn't planned to climb. The rock's pretty rough eh, but I was surprised at the extent of different aspects on blocks etc. You wouldn't want to be up there if it was windy, especially with a bouldering pad strapped to your back for the walk in!

Looking for a partner for Thursday sport or trad - not on fbook anymore so can't use the group. Anyone keen?

I'm not on FB either Dan but am keen generally, esp for trad (though not sure free this wk). I'll drop you a pm.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest. 
Tue - explosive pull ups x 8 x 5 (+ 8 kg x 1). Hard.
Wed - one arm hangs, PROGRESS! Felt strong, + 16 kg LH + 21 RH. Clean and press x 5 41 kg + max time one arm hang. Brilliant brilliant session.
Thu - AM rock climbing, felt heavy. Baby skin. PM bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - full snatch 46 kg x 3 x 5; clean and press 41 kg x 5 x 5. Ab wheel 10" x 6 x 2.

Mixed feelings. Still unsure whether I put up some weight, my scale can be unpredictable. Skin folds are the same, with minimal differences in terms of half a mm. Felt heavy on ze rock - sharp holds and baby skin didn't help either. But it looks like I improved on the one arm hangs, despite possibly being heavier. Kept the same added weight for LH, even added one kg for RH. Super short, max efforts, probably around 2/3".
The Wednesday fingerboarding session has been one of the best ever. Right rest times, right mindset, proper turnout. Definitely want to keep going with the combo clean and press/one arm hangs.

[Duma]

Goals:
8A (Hunters Roof? Godzilla?)and 8b by June. 8b is going to have to wait till after Rocklands now I think.
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: middle fingers feeling bit tweaky after the wall, been ok since Sat at biblins though.
Sleep: decent.
69.5kg.

M: TCA, new mothership set, not feeling brilliant but did most things up to 7A or so (~7.5hrs, 0dk)
T: 20 min run, first time since last summer  (7hrs, 0dk)
W: Biblins after work, legs hurt, not much snap, no progress in Godzilla, bit of a nothing session really. Did three nine's traverse though - Mexican Radio (7B) (~7hrs, 0dk)
T: nothing. (~6.5hrs, 0dk)
F: TCA for brief session on mothership. finished off the red up the middle (prob 7C ish) but kept it short as outside on Sat. (~7.5hrs, 2dk)
S: Biblins with big group. Usual warm ups, had been told about some possible new beta for crux of Godzilla but couldn't make it work for me. Felt pretty good but frustratingly never hit the finish hold well enough again... did Crispys Roof (7C) as a consolation tick once power started to fade - total non line but fun couple of moves. Then up all night partying (~0hrs, many dk)
S: sleep, walk around gingerly (~13hrs, 0dk)

[36chambers]

M:
T:
W: Snowden Crags. Climbed Energy Crisis 7C, having wanted to try it for a few years now. Spent most on my time on top of the boulder trying to escape the midges. 
T:
F: Wales trip. Penmaen Head. A few easy sport routes en route to Bethesda.
S: Parisella's. Wet morning activity. Climbed Rock Atrocity Wobbly Block 7C+ quickly and got about 3/4's through Hatchatrocity 8A from the start. My PE is pretty shocking at the moment. Went to Ogwen but it was still raining so killed time searching the wrong hillside for Animal Magnetism. Blues skies arrived so finished the day at Milestone Buttress Boulders. Would have tried Harvey Oswald 7A, but couldn't pull on...
S: Raining in Ogwen, went for another walk and actually found Animal Magnetism this time. Parking at the right place = success. Blue skies back in Bethesda and we realised that Caseg Boulder was 5 minutes up the road, so had a beautiful few hours there. Climbed Caseg Groove 6C which is brilliant and found about a dozen ways to not do Don't Think Feel 7B+, which felt nails, but I had ran out of chalk.

Good weekend, happy to finally climb somewhere in Wales that isn't Cromlech or Parisella's. 

[Doylo]

Don't think Feel is 7c. I use a kneepad and it still feels 7c to me.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: font 7anything


M: Nowt
T: Gym on lunch, deadlifts. Warmup, then 3 x 100, 2 x 110 and 1 x 120. 3 x 10 20kg kettlebell goblet squats.
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: Gym on lunch, but foolhardy after late night / beers watching election result. Sub 1:45 500m row to warm up, then 3 x 10 30kg shoulder press, 50 pushups. Attempted goblet squats but felt awful to sacked it off.
S: Nowt. Grandparents took the kids for the morning, kind of didn't know what to do so we just went and had an epic brunch of chicken schnitzel sandwiches.
S: Nowt. Family Sunday roast dinner.

[psborland]

Managed to get back to some decent training after a few lazy weeks :
M. An cap on home board- 11 moves on 2'45" clock x 6 reps for 2 sets last 3 reps set 2 failing early.
     Kettlebell swings  & core routine b x 1 round.

T. core b x 3 rounds

W. BBC bouldering part new reset v3-v5 circuit. then 45 minutes limit bouldering. Pullups 6 @+25Kg; 5@+30Kg 4@+32.5Kg

Th.-

F. An cap on home board- 12 moves on 2'45" clock x 6 reps for 3 sets.. end set 2 failing on move 9/10 set 3 failed at move 10/10/8/10/7/6

Sa-

Su- Hangboard max hangs -3 finger half crimp x4; 4 finger half crimp x3; 4 finger open x3 ; Deadlifts to 105Kg. Stretching / Hip mobility.

[36chambers]

Don't think Feel is 7c. I use a kneepad and it still feels 7c to me.

That's reassuring, I was just going off the old guidebook

[user deactivated]

Hey Tom, grinah stones.. what a spot! Had a wander out there with Eric a few years ago to check it out and was surprised at the quality of the rock. How do you find running and climbing? I can't do both well. Or either relatively.

I was up there quite late yesterday evening on a long run, so hadn't planned to climb. The rock's pretty rough eh, but I was surprised at the extent of different aspects on blocks etc. You wouldn't want to be up there if it was windy, especially with a bouldering pad strapped to your back for the walk in!

Looking for a partner for Thursday sport or trad - not on fbook anymore so can't use the group. Anyone keen?

I'm not on FB either Dan but am keen generally, esp for trad (though not sure free this wk). I'll drop you a pm.

Nice one Tom, I'd be keen for trad or sport in the day on Thursday. I was wondering about running and climbing in general, if I go for a run I seem to climb worse for it. Prob not as simple as that but certainly doesn't seem to help.

[abarro81]

Don't think Feel is 7c. I use a kneepad and it still feels 7c to me.

Punter

[user deactivated]

Hey Tom, grinah stones.. what a spot! Had a wander out there with Eric a few years ago to check it out and was surprised at the quality of the rock. How do you find running and climbing? I can't do both well. Or either relatively.

I was up there quite late yesterday evening on a long run, so hadn't planned to climb. The rock's pretty rough eh, but I was surprised at the extent of different aspects on blocks etc. You wouldn't want to be up there if it was windy, especially with a bouldering pad strapped to your back for the walk in!

Looking for a partner for Thursday sport or trad - not on fbook anymore so can't use the group. Anyone keen?

I'm not on FB either Dan but am keen generally, esp for trad (though not sure free this wk). I'll drop you a pm.

Nice one Tom, I'd be keen for trad or sport in the day on Thursday. I was wondering about running and climbing in general, if I go for a run I seem to climb worse for it. Prob not as simple as that but certainly doesn't seem to help.

.

Actually free Friday day rather than Thursday now, cheers!

[Doylo]

Don't think Feel is 7c. I use a kneepad and it still feels 7c to me.

Punter

The kneebar has to come out for awkward last move. We re not all 6 ft 4 

[SA Chris]

M- wall session, did OK
T - nothing much
W - outdoors. After tuesday's torrential rain the project was unsurprisingly seeping, so sought refuge in the cave, which was in surprisingly good nick. Did 2 new eliminate versions on old probs, both good value.
T - some weights
F - not much
S - DIY am, push ups evening
S - bike - 50km, some core in evening

[nai]

M massage  - started at achilles and worked up to hamstring attachments. Knots galore, 'kin painful. Instructed to keep stretching hamstrings.

T bit of a mish-mash, trying to work out where I stand:
max hangs - couldn't repeat Sundays PB anomalie but about same as before
1st set of AnCap using hardest problem - usually fail on 4th move of 2nd rep but failed on 3rd move of 3rd rep 
1st rep of campus laddering - c30s longer than previous time I did the workout

So clearly everything's fine....

W - quick visit to Anston Stones, first time there, wanted to assess Fine Beta as a potential 7C project.  Managed Beta Blocker ok before realising you only do the last move on the link.  Did a few links on the traverse but struggled with the start problem (Fine Art?). Likely go again but it's not a problem that warrants multiple sessions, time probably more wisely invested in the better quality of Ben's.

Th - Moat - very shakey to start, had to dog the 6c+ warm up before remembering how to climb and TRing it ok. Tried the new 6c but pulled a hold off and fell, couldn't be bothered to RP it.  Managed Excalibur 1st RP but not exactly smoothly, flash pumped three moves into the hard climbing and it turned into quite a battle, great fun though.

F - rest

S - 5x5x5 repeaters 1/2 crimp & drag.  Failed last drag set.  Need to stop climbing, it just makes me weaker

S nowt

[Luke Owens]

F: Wales trip. Penmaen Head. A few easy sport routes en route to Bethesda.

Evening? Think I seen you there 

[36chambers]

F: Wales trip. Penmaen Head. A few easy sport routes en route to Bethesda.

Evening? Think I seen you there 

Aye that was me, nice to have briefly said "hello" to you

[TobyD]

Moat - very shakey to start, had to dog the 6c+ warm up before remembering how to climb and TRing it ok.

This is exactly what I did the day after. (although I only TRd the warm up)  The new 6c seems dangerously loose; I saw 3 different people on it and they all pulled quite a lot of stuff off.

[nai]

with all the stuff being pulled off plus all the stuff marked with big Xs. it's like some kind of anti-treasure hunt.

[Luke Owens]

Bit of on rock mileage the last couple of weeks has been good but missing trying some classics/harder stuff. Keen for some routes in the low 7's.

M: Lunch - 2 x (5 x 5s) L-Hangs
2 x 5 IYT's (4kg)
Finding one rep max on assisted one armers, 8kg assistance required on both arms.

T: Lunch - 2 x 8min LI-Aerocap (felt really really easy compared to usual?)

W: Rest

T: Lunch - 2 x 8min LI-Aerocap

Eve - Penmaen Head - 6a+ warm up then did 6c+ 2nd go, 2 laps on a pumpy 6c to finish.

F: Eve - Penmaen Head - 6a+ warm up then 6c onsight, ground up on another 6c as I slipped off the moves off the deck.

S - S: Weekend with the kids, other half was at a hen weekend. Windy zoo trip on Sunday.

[fried]

M-W - Nothing.
Th - had the afternoon of work and was working south of Paris, so drove and continued on to Roche aux sabots, stinking hot, but that didn't stop me trying to get on with my 6A/6A+ projects such as https://bleau.info/sabots/5753.html and ttps://bleau.info/sabots/5747.html, which mostly seemed to involve crappy crimps, obviously I got nowhere fast. Repeated La Narine https://bleau.info/sabots/17688.html, and did a couple of off-circuit easier bits https://bleau.info/sabots/19011.html among other things. Great fun.

Fr - Indoors - Hot, ached from Thursday, planned to have an easy session, but pushed it a bit at the end, resulting in
S - Tweaky shoulder and
Su - Missed session. Even hotter though.

[TobyD]

Late post...

M yoga early morning, wave evening, few more level two problems but pretty destroyed after first bouldering for a year the day before
T yoga early morning, easy auto belays in the evening 20-30 very easy routes
W turbo trainer early morning, run evening
T turbo trainer early morning, wave session daytime
F turbo trainer early morning, most buttress at lunchtime. TR 6c warm up twice. Hour on the wave later afternoon
S turbo trainer early morning, autobelays​ in the day.
S turbo trainer early morning, 2hr ride in the peak before rain forecast... Which it didn't much.
Felt like a pretty underwhelming week, but looking at it, probably represents decent progress. I'd totally forgotten how much more tiring doing actual hard moves is than flidding about on routes up to 7a.