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Edale quicky (Read 4123 times)

Durbs

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Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 12:06:01 pm
Heading to Edale this BH weekend, and obviously as it's a BH weekend the weather's turned at the last minute to be a bit wet.

Hopefully will have pitched and settled by 5pm, so was looking for some recommendations for a quick fix for some 6b-limit punters to get some rock time before the rain starts on Saturday... Possible evening session once bubba and preggo-mamma have been fed too.


dave

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#1 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 12:54:10 pm
There's not masses right by Edale unless you fancy walking up to any of the Kinder stuff, and I'm not sure there's anything at that grade. Closest stuff is the Castleton stuff, Odins Cave, Sheep shifter etc, none of which is at that grade. Half an hour would get you to Rubicon, again not amazing for 6b limit.

You could get to the Conies dale parking in about 15 mins from Edale. 25mins to Stanage, might be a better option?


nai

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#2 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 02:58:18 pm
Is it likely to be midgey tonight? Certainly very warm, anything in the sun will need oven gloves. You might want to be high, in shade and exposed to any wind there is. I'd suggest somewhere like Higgar, Burbage West or maybe Apparent North. Plenty to go at even if it's not Uber classic.

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T_B

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#3 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 03:16:49 pm
Which campsite? If you're at Upper Booth I'd just have a walk up to the Woolpacks and find some stuff to clamber on. It's not gonna be good enough connies to bother driving anywhere, whereas it will be absolutely stunning up on Kinder!

tomtom

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#4 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 03:16:53 pm
There's not masses right by Edale unless you fancy walking up to any of the Kinder stuff, and I'm not sure there's anything at that grade. Closest stuff is the Castleton stuff, Odins Cave, Sheep shifter etc, none of which is at that grade. Half an hour would get you to Rubicon, again not amazing for 6b limit.

You could get to the Conies dale parking in about 15 mins from Edale. 25mins to Stanage, might be a better option?

Conies was all pretty dry when we went yesterday. It gets a bit of breeze by like Nai said there may well be insects. Also - whilst it's 15 min away (or less) it's also an 18 min walk in (or faster if you don't have to wait for Dolly.... ;) )

tomtom

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#5 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 03:17:59 pm
Ps. There is easyish stuff at Conies - but it's ALL overhanging..

nai

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#6 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 03:19:08 pm


it will be absolutely stunning up on Kinder!

There is that.

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dave

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#7 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 03:24:52 pm
I wouldn't bother climbing on Woolpacks, the rock is uber coarse but also very prone to being knackered by very little traffic. Just check it out for the amazing place it is, lets not fuck it up by climbing on it.

Conies was all pretty dry when we went yesterday.

Did you notice if the slot crimp on the 7c+ was dry, and/or all the starting ledges around where that problem starts?

andy popp

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#8 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 04:00:34 pm
Nothing on Kinder is a quick fix simply because of the walk in.

nai

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#9 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 04:15:26 pm
There is that

tomtom

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#10 Re: Edale quicky
May 26, 2017, 05:53:11 pm
I wouldn't bother climbing on Woolpacks, the rock is uber coarse but also very prone to being knackered by very little traffic. Just check it out for the amazing place it is, lets not fuck it up by climbing on it.

Conies was all pretty dry when we went yesterday.

Did you notice if the slot crimp on the 7c+ was dry, and/or all the starting ledges around where that problem starts?

No - sorry. Low ledges were slimed/wet in places but the starting holds were generally OK (most probs not yours) after a brush. Some footholds slimed out.

Durbs

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#11 Re: Edale quicky
May 30, 2017, 09:21:10 am
Cheers for all the suggestions peeps.

Unfortunately the traffic gods had other ideas, so instead of arriving around 4, got there at 8, and then had to give the toddler a run-around as she'd been in the car for 7.5 hours (with a break).

Shame, as we arrived to a glorious sunset...

Headed to Plantation on Saturday, got a little bit roasted, dodged a single hail/rain storm and had a solid day on (and a lot off) the rock.
Couple of 6a+ which I was chuffed with for the first grit of the year.

Also saw Nick Clegg at Burbage Bridge.

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#12 Re: Edale quicky
May 30, 2017, 12:45:41 pm
I wouldn't bother climbing on Woolpacks, the rock is uber coarse but also very prone to being knackered by very little traffic. Just check it out for the amazing place it is, lets not fuck it up by climbing on it.

Conies was all pretty dry when we went yesterday.

Did you notice if the slot crimp on the 7c+ was dry, and/or all the starting ledges around where that problem starts?
The slots on BF were dry on Sat. Some wet streaks below break level (not sure how much this affected BF), but generally not problematic.

 

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