[tomtom]

Hola!

M: Work
T: Work
We: Quick trip back to the Wiltons to do 'soft shoe shuffle' but it was 'gun club' day in that quarry - so ended up playing on this - before failing on some of Mikes hard problems



Th: CragX with Dolly and Lagers. Second day on, with sore tips - but good fun. Gave Dolly all the beta for Zippys that he kind of dispatched Came closeish myself - which was annoying. Actually Zippys is annoying.. more later...

Fr: Stuff...

Sa: Back to X. It was the tideswell toddle, or cragx Crawl fell (ish) race - which I'd forgotten about, but had a nice chat with the marshals and they let me through. Worth noting - one of them (a climber who lives in cragx) said it had not gone un-noticed that there seemed to be more evidence of people going there than usual (cars and people hopping over the wall)... Maybe something we should all be careful about.. Anyway - had a lame session on Zippys... arse.

Su: Did some work and listened to Hull get relegated.

[shark]

It was the tideswell toddle, or cragx Crawl fell (ish) race - which I'd forgotten about, but had a nice chat with the marshals and they let me through. Worth noting - one of them (a climber who lives in cragx)

Him?

[tomtom]

Nope - met him before though at Rubicon - cleaning/replacing gear.

[nai]

cleaning gear?  Good work, can't stand clipping dusty bolts.

[tomtom]

cleaning gear?  Good work, can't stand clipping dusty bolts.

Bah... hanging from a rope, cleaning out and replacing threads, checking bolts, replacing pegs etc..

[shark]

11.2-4

M.

T.

W.

T. PM Malham Sunny forecast but none of the others able to switch to friday. Up with Keith Mina and Tom Smart. Hot to begin with but low humidity and occasional breeze so overall good enough conditions but not mint. Warm. Warmed up on Cons x 1 then x 2. Naomi put my clips in the Oak so no need to go to the top. Go 1 pulled on the lower moves and did throw a couple of times to get recruited then came down and had a short rest then did ground to nearly getting horn. Go 2, 3 and 4 did the same. (go 3 was the best - would have got horn if there wasnt a hand slippage just before releasing intermediate) Go 5 Sore tips. Ground to undercut by third and hand skated out of it - ouch. Had a rest on rope then failed on throw. another rest on rope then managed throw to the top.

F. AM Pummelled by Loopy Lou.

S.

S.

Going back to Malham tomorrow, thursday and maybe sunday. Unlucky not to get past horn on Thursday I think. Only drank on Friday and Saturday. Weight only marginally lower. Thought provoking work issues dominated last week. More of the same this week. And house buying. Not sure why I do it to myself - it's not as if I haven't got enough on my plate

[nai]

A week of hot water bottles, self massage, everso gentle stretching, reading, box sets, scrabble and torture of just looking out of the window at the connies (plus constant discomfort, a fair dose of pain, frustration, anger, self loathing and a shed-load of painkillers)

Had another spasm on Tuesday after a pumelling from Louise and another on Wednesday after driving the kids around to after school shizzle.

Up until this afternoon this was set to be an extremely gloomy entry but I eventually managed to get into the left hand side of my hip and glute with a spikey ball and loosen things up a bit. Can now do a whole hip rotation with just a smidgeon of discomfort in the back left position. Have a massage booked at HP tomorrow which will hopefully help like last time. Only unlike last time I won't rush into doing anything. Hopefully do some laps of The Prow sometime in the week, unfortunately the one in miniworks...

[36chambers]

M:
T: Caley. Had a play on Under a Full Moon 7C+, first few moves felt reassuringly fine, but didn't commit to the throw, didn't stay long as the midges were brutal. Climbed Pedestal Arete 7C afterwards. Which is actually rather good.     
W: Cliff, casual.
T: Caley. Quick play on Banana Republic 8A. Definitely needed to warm into the holds on this one. The individual moves didn't seem too bad in the end, so it's now on the list. Shame it's practically summer now.
F:
S: Cliff. Was just there to support friends before going to Caley, but discovered I could reverse Stu's Left Hand so got sucked into trying Demonist 8A. Very close to doing it, too tired for Caley.   
S: Gardening and tings.

Doubt I'll do much training over the foreseeable future.

[user deactivated]

Agh! First disappointing day out in a while Saturday....

Last sat- x4 goes up Vision of loveliness 2 half redpoints 

Sun- endurance home board. Felt good n fit.

Tues- boulder problem reps at the depot. 50 degree spanking as usual.

Thurs - 3hrs sleep due to little un. Endurance home board. Totally wasted.

Sat- Mmmmm semi warm up dogging clips up bored of the lies. 1,2,3rd redpoint fell in top groove due to fingers opening up. Ego dented... shrugged it off nearly.

Sun - endurance laps home board. Made a video to practice some camera stuff for upcoming trip to Germany - frankenjura (A climbing holiday!)

[csl]

STG - may

- 7B
- 5 days outside - 3/5
- Do something good in Font

MTG - september

- 7C
- cassin on piz badile/comici on cima grande

LTG - this time next year

- not sure

Monday

Arch B1. Great sociable session on the 30º board. Close on one project, but did lots of problems other people showed me and felt worked after.

Tuesday

Nothing

Wednesday

nothing

Thursday

Nothing

Friday

Nothing

Saturday

Tremadog. Onsighted The Weaver and seconded The Vulture but fell when i missed a crimp. First time i've done more than 10 moves in a row since February.

Sunday

went to try Bustach Prow. Did the 7a to the left, then came as close as i possibly could to Bustach Prow without actually doing it, fell with both hands on the top of the boulder a few times, and many times from the last move. Gutted, as would have been my first 7B. Long drive home.

[Duma]

Goals:
8A (Hunters Roof? Godzilla?)and 8b by June. 8b is going to have to wait till after Rocklands now I think.
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: DIP joint on RH bit tweakier than normal, been icing and seems to be improving
Sleep: Decent.
69.5kg

M: TCA, Back on the oranges, brief session but went well, finished off most of the ones left, including a couple of ones in low to mid 7's. Only 2 to go, roof and  crimpy wall. Stopped when finger started to complain when trying the roof, had done in overlaps by then though. (~7hrs, 6dk)
T: Nothing, thick head in morning. (~6.5hrs, 4dk(didn't learn))
W: TCA, was supposed to be easy session as going out on Thurs, so just repeated the new 4-5+ circuit, got sucked in to the last 2 oranges though, managed to finish off the vert one, should have got the roof too but kept missing the hold on the last hard move which was mildly annoying. (~7hrs, 0dk)
T: Biblins after work, pissing with rain but cave dry, connies not too bad. Got couple of things not done before at end of warm up (Bigger Bulge 7B and Pop for Gaskins 7A+) nice to commit to the move on Bigger Bulge finally. Rest of session failing to hold crux on Godzilla, annoyingly low percentage move. Did at least realize I had been starting 2 moves too low, though these don't add much TBH. Should go if I can just catch the pinch a bit more consistently. (~6.5hrs, 0dk)
F: Nothing (~8hrs, 1dk)
S: Biblins again, much better nick. usual things to warm up, added the extended finish to Pop for Gaskins (Rock for Gaskins 7B) and a(nother) link up -  Pop for the Bulge (7A+), then spent next 90 mins failing on Godzilla. Actually felt much better on it than Thurs, was feeling like it should go, but only held the pinch once and then only for a second or so before sagging off. (~7hrs, many dk)
S: Nothing (~7.5hrs, 0dk)

Fun week, pretty much finished off the oranges and couple of sessions out - Godzilla def should go, next time going to take ladder or stack some mats so can work the finishing match - move before is so low percentage it would be gutting to stick it and then fuck up.

[duncan]

STG: Don’t break. Bounce and twist. Deposit a 1200 move (600m) session in the Banco Resistencia Continental in 3 weeks time.
MTG: Don’t break. Work a 7b. Classic sea-cliff E5 this August.
LTG: 7b RP. Others tbc.


M - Westway aerocap. circuit and movement practice. 300m/600 moves.
T - Elbow sore. Shoulder exercise
W - Elbow sore. Shoulder exercises, 10km jog/walk.
T - Elbow sore.
F - Shoulder exercises.
S - Swanage with Mike Highbury. Glorious weather, Subliminal, Cattle Troughs and Boulder Ruckle all seeing action. Went to Promenade which was deserted but in pretty good condition. A few damp bits, a bit warm, and the sea meant we couldn’t get to Tesselations area. Warm-up including a fight with Titter Ye Not Mrs! which was rather uphill (and terrible tactics). Eyed some of the 7s which look great and completely not my style. Tried Zeitgiest (7a+) which is only slightly steep and boils down to two or three fingery moves with small footholds. As usual, got to the last hard move on the flash then made exactly no further progress after working it a couple of times. Another battle on a steep and easy route to finish and I had satisfyingly nothing left.
S - Battered. 10km jog/walk.

Work issues so sore elbow. I’ve been to Promenade a couple of times but only previously seen a small bit of it. Quite syked to return with flexi-tub and clip stick. My anti-style - steep, 4-6 bolt sprints - and getting good conditions might be frustrating but the rock and ambience are great and it’s sometimes good to take weaknesses head on. I run out of gas after 60 seconds if it's steep. Given I’ve been doing gentle rehab. miles on slightly overhanging walls for the last 6 months this should be no surprise. Need to gradually reintroduce a bit of bouldering and redpointing.

The new CC Swanage guide has done a very good job with Promenade with better topos, grades, and approach information including optimum parking (not the obvious: look at the map) than the competition.

Westway autobelays are still out of action so have arranged a social bouldering date this week. Likely to be in Somerset to see my Mum this weekend if anyone fancies an afternoon at Cheddar/Brean/Uphill Quarry.

[TobyD]

M core, yoga
T run 5k
W run 5k
T run 4k
F core, yoga
S run 5k pm walk 8k
S run 5k pm walk c.15k

Getting really itchy to bike/climb, but foot down: no disturbing head injury until wound fully closed over. Weeks to go... 

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI),  First 8b+ (Mecca), spring
MTG: Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Projs on G.Orme, Gideon and L.Ormes (late summer after birds have left)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M.
T. Core/mobility sesh.
W. Afternoon tradding in Idwal. Did Homicide Wall E3, and Rowan Tree Slabs E2. Two of the few remaining E2 and 3 NW Rock ticks I hadn't done. Homicide Wall was a little spooky - dirty rock and not much gear but cool rock features and good fun. RTS was ace. Beautiful evening.
T.
F. Tor. Mecca sesh 4. Getting 'razor' to 'ear' consistently but still not holding the barndoor, although not sure of my foot sequence for this so it'll come. Realised I hadn't worked out my sequence for making the 3rd clip at the start so tried this, and had a bit of a dismal sesh not being able to do the start moves into the undercut or even the rockover move. It was greasiest I've seen it though and know I can do these moves so not too bothered. After watching Luke D I worked out I can probably swing across on the lh crimp into lh undercut, feels efficient. Short sesh as had to be in work for afternoon.
S. Jogged up to Idwal in the evening, solo'd up Hope, Lazarus, and The Arete, trotted back down. Love running this circuit. Collected some bounty from Hope.
S. Wanted to try Mecca but didn't find partner so stayed home. Sesh on 36 Chambers sit in the evening. Feeling strong on the holds and getting the move into the backhand intermediate, but latching the rail is eluding me.

Enjoying keeping a day for tradding each week as a contrast to projecting sport routes, not the be-all etc. Not getting as many sessions on Mecca as I'd like so progress is slow, but still making progress 2:1 forward/back. Also other more important stuff going on in background. Take people's points (mentioned elsewhere) about just turning up to the Tor, but it's a 2hr15 drive for me so there's a fair bit invested, plus it just feels a bit wick turning up without partner.

[T_B]

M - Lattice deadhang test. Worked up from -15Kg to a best of -10Kg, dragging on right hand. As a % of bodyweight @ 85.5Kg, that's 11.6% assistance.
T - Autobelays. 1 x 5, 5 x 6a+, 5 x 6c, 1 x 7a, 1 x 6c, 1 x 6b. Whole back felt stiff (poss from playing cricket at the weekend?) and tired. Even elbows felt tweaky : (. PM Long run.
W - Autobelays. 3 x 6a+, 1 x 6b, 3 x 6c, 3 x 7b+, worked then redpointed green 7a. Back and elbows better than y'day
T - PM run
F - Wave pulling. Bit off the pace. Left back still weak (nearly 2 months now).
S - PM. Decided to run out to Howshaw along Derwent Edges from the bridges with rock shoes/chalk. Arrived at Panopticon roof 7.30pm which I'd clocked last May when I tore my hamstring as maybe not needing a pad. After a while was getting out to the r-hand crimp/left hand undercut and trying to cut the swing i.e. the crux. Just didn't have enough beef. Ran back, back at car 9.30pm - knackered. 13km running, 1.5hrs attempting roof 7c.

Need to sort back out if I'm gonna boulder properly in the near future.
Hoping to go traddin this wk.

[dave]

maybe not needing a pad.

You finish inverted with both feet toe toehooking the top of the roof for fucks sake!

[T_B]

I know, I know. You need a spot really more than a pad. Maybe if I'd held the cut loose and got the toe hooks in I would have chickened out.

[tommytwotone]

Goal - Font 7anything


Decent week.


M - Climbing Lab eve. Good trip round the V3-5 circuit, did vast majority apart from a couple of harder ones I left too late in the session.
T - Nowt.
W - 200 reps on lunch - 25 x pullups, 50 x bodyweight deadlifts, 50 x pressups, 50 x 60cm box jumps, 25 x clean and press @ 20kg. 21min 48sec. About 5 mins off last week's effort.
T - Nowt.
F - 200 reps on lunch - 25 x KB swings @ 16kg, 50 x shoulder press @ 20kg, 50 x goblet squat @ 16kg, 50 x burpees, 25 x bicep curl @ 20kg. 17min 27sec.
S - Nowt.
S - Nowt apart from building a cot in the spare room.


Contemplating buying a kettlebell or two as I'm not getting much done on a weekend so would be useful to have one so I could do a "200 reps" workout at home.

[SA Chris]

M - evening session at Ritchie Shore. did 4 probs all about 6a-6c? (Can't grade to save my life). Good blowy wind so sheltered spot was in reasonable nick. First visit in 18 months, reminded a) problems are brilliant b) and quite hard. Got precisely nowhere on traverse project, couldn't even remember they moves.
T - Parents Evening at school. Nothing.
W - Wall session. Actually had a fairly good session early but went downhill fast. Was bit warm and sweaty.
T - Nothing
F - Nothing I can recall
S - Run / push Kyle on bike about 4 km. Kettlebells in evening.
S - Cycle home from soft play party - 60 km, with some brutal hill repeats thrown in for good measure.

Etape Caledonia on Sunday, need to up mileage.

[SA Chris]

Contemplating buying a kettlebell or two as I'm not getting much done on a weekend so would be useful to have one so I could do a "200 reps" workout at home.

LOL, posted at same time. See above. Worthwhile.

[SA Chris]

Collected some bounty from Hope.

If it's a camming device it's mine, can I have it back please.

[Nibile]

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - weights and bag.
Sat - bag.
Sun - ab-wheel new routine (6 moves with 10" stretch pause x 2); weights. Really happy to be back on the wheel, elbow much better.

Heavy week of partying but managed to limit the damage.

[petejh]

Collected some bounty from Hope.

If it's a camming device it's mine, can I have it back please.

Sling and screwgate. Name the brand and the exact batch number of both and its yours!

[SA Chris]

DMM 6060842

[nai]

Contemplating buying a kettlebell or two as I'm not getting much done on a weekend so would be useful to have one so I could do a "200 reps" workout at home.

Think Aldi were shifting some recently, probably store specific though I guess.  Probably loads collecting dust around homes whose occupants' January resolutions have come to naught again.