[skelf]

So I've been training hard all winter, now its time to get out on the rock and take the ticks.
What's the best approach to maintain those training gains while still being fully rested for the rock ?

I'm historically quite bad at this and just generally go climbing over the spring / summer / autumn, heading indoors if the weather is bad. This winter i have actually managed to pull my finger out and do some consistent quality training, so don't want to end-up back at the start in the autumn.

This season i'm tempted to skip the indoor wall sessions and use the travelling time saved to boost the brownie point status.(in favour of actual climbing on rock). I have a fairly decent home setup. (Board / Campus Board / Fingerboard / TRX & Pull-up Bar) So i'm thinking of a rotating list of exercises that i need to do and all have to be done before starting the list again.

thinking of something like :
Board Sesh
Short Run or Bike
Feet on Campus Sesh (Power Endurance Whatever that is in new money)
Stretching & Theraband
Beastmaker App Repeaters
Lattice TRX routine & PressUps

(Repeat until the clocks change and its time to start a proper periodised program again and buy a pass for the wall)

So my thoughts are that if the weathers good most of this gets dumped and i'm outdoors climbing. If the weather is no so good then pick the next thing on the list etc etc.

Thoughts ? or does anyone have a better idea that i have not yet thought of ?

[SA Chris]

Sounds good to me, looks like you have home facilities wired. All I can suggest is pay careful attention to forecasts, and know what conditions will best suit the local spots. Be scientific and clinical on this! And have plans B & C at the ready if A doesn't play out.

Also depending on what you are doing always have a motivated partner or two on speed dial.

[skelf]

looks like its never going to rain ever again so have just defaulted to climbing 2/3 time a week and running twice a week. Hopefully i'm climbing hard enough not to go into the autumn training period too much weaker ....!

[nai]

Might be worth fitting in some max hangs once a week to keep strength topped up.

Do a max hangs protocol that's timed so that it's hard but not to failure every every rep, that way you should be able to retain strength but remain fresh enough to perform when you get out.



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[Ged]

Interesting topic.  I find the same, when the weather is good like now, I'm pretty reluctant to train so I'm fresh for rock climbing.  But I definitely feel strength and strength endurance slipping away.  My plan is to get in at least one fingerboard sesh per week, maybe after a climbing session if necesary.  A few max hangs and then some repeaters has always served me well.  Then when we get a spell of bad weather, bound to happen sooner or later, train like hell.  Intensity of fingerboard sessions will be judged by the forecast.  If i'll be climbing the day after tomorrow, keep it fairly light.  I'm not bothering with any endurance stuff, as I figure I'll get that from climbing.  Also doing the odd session of laps on sport routes when out might help.

Personally I wouldn't bother with the running etc (unless it's just because you like it).  The theraband and TRX stuff shouldn't affect your recovery for rock climbing enough to be missing it out, it's just time I suppose

[skelf]

I've not managed to make myself train indoors since the clocks changed, too much dry rock, daylight and blue skies to lock myself away in a dusty garage. I'm climbing well though, enough to convince me that all those board sessions were worth it... and keep it up next winter.

But the finger boarding suggestions have made me think that that's the main plate to keep spinning, max hangs and repeaters and i'll go back into the garage and do all the other stuff when it rains. (maybe abit of therabanding too.) So if i can knock up a movable mount for my fingerboard, or better still a portable one on a rope, then that should do me....

I'm thinking a finger board session in the GARDEN would have the added incentive of being able to keep an eye on the little one, thus keeping the fingers strong and brownie points topped up in one hit .....bonus !

I only run for general fitness (and because i tend to focus too much on the climbing specific stuff to be healthy.) so 30min once or twice a week as soon as possible after a climbing session should keep me healthy without too much impact on the climbing.

Thanks all for the suggestions.

[Ged]

After writing that the other day I thought I'd follow my advice and get a fingerboard session in.  I've been climbing loads the last 2 months, and feeling pretty good.  But I was noticeably weak on the fingerboard compared to the winter (not surpirising), and my forearms were absolutely destroyed!  Full on DOMS for two days.  Which made me think it's definitely worth trying to keep topped up.

FIngerboard in the garden has to be a good plan.