[James Malloch]

My girlfriend and I are dropping family off at Manchester Airport early on Saturday before heading to the Kendal area for a Wedding do on Saturday evening. It would be good to get some bouldering done in between and my girlfriend fancies a day of doing lots of problems after not getting out much over winter.

Is there anywhere with a bunch of problems in the 5/6a range that would provide a chilled half day getting some easy ticks? I don't know anything about the Lancashire bouldering or South Lakes limestone. Nor much about the bouldering in the lakes in general. Ideally we would be after problems that aren't very highball.

Craig y Longridge seems to have a bunch of V0-V3 problems. Likewise for Woodwell and Fairy Steps. Or Kentmere/Badger Rock. Would these fit the bill? Or perhaps something closer to Manchester, Wilton etc?

Any thoughts and recommendations would be very much appreciated.

[Coops_13]

Longridge has a stack of lower grade problems and some good harder stuff. It's all on the same angle rock though so not so good if you're looking for variety. High-ish but nice flat landings so feels fine (can go as high as you want before dropping off).

[Muenchener]

I recall Kentmere being pleasant for an easy day out in a scenic location. It was a long time ago though.

[Stabbsy]

Much as I'm a fan of Longridge, I'm not sure it's the most inspiring venue in the lower grades. If you don't mind the walk (20 mins or so), I'd suggest Thorn.

[tomtom]

Might depend on the forecast...

Kentmere is a lovely spot. Lots of stuff in that range on Badger rock and harder stuff in Little font. It's a wee diversion if you're heading to Kendal but not too bad.

Longridge is ok - but it always feels more like a training ground than a crag to me - it's steep so relatively uncompromising - but you'll certainly get a good work out. It's about 10-15 min from the motorway..

Woodwell is a lovely spot - mostly harder stuff but there are problems in that range.. if it's sunny then woodwell is shady... if it's raining/been raining then trowbarrow can work - shelterstone dries super fast and red wall is nealry always dry. But for 5's and 6's it's maybe not brilliant.

IF you have time to spare and don't mind the 30-40 min walk in then Thorn has superb rock - loads in that (and all) grade ranges - and is in an idyllic location. It's 15 min or so from M6... if the weathers nice and you can factor in the walk in - and you're rarely up that way - it's where I'd head.

Also the lime on Farleton that has some decent lower grade problems and not too bad a walk for some of them.

Lots of choice - without going into the lancs grit or Cheshire sandstone which is 25 min from Manc Airport and in good nic at the moment.

[shmickels]

I'd say Kentmere is a good shout. Badger Rock is fairly high but the landings are good and theres a lot of easier stuff on there (not dog friendly though if thats a concern) nice setting and a shortish walk in.
Little Font is just across the path and up a bit and has some great harder problems where Shadowplay is and some easier stuff nearer to the path.

[sxrxg]

I would echo the sentiments of others and say thorn is the crag of choice if the weather is good and you have time for the half an hour walk in.

If the weather is so so though you could do worse than brownstones near Bolton (short diversion off the m61). Walk in is 2 minutes, it faces west and gets all the sun going so drys in an instant, not as grotty as many lancs quarries with a nice flat grassy landing and quite open (not the typical hole in the ground quarry feeling). Plenty of great problems in the lower grades along with some harder old school crimpy test pieces in the 7's.

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[jfdm]

I would echo the sentiments of others and say thorn is the crag of choice if the weather is good and you have time for the half an hour walk in.

If the weather is so so though you could do worse than brownstones near Bolton (short diversion off the m61). Walk in is 2 minutes, it faces west and gets all the sun going so drys in an instant, not as grotty as many lancs quarries with a nice flat grassy landing and quite open (not the typical hole in the ground quarry feeling). Plenty of great problems in the lower grades along with some harder old school crimpy test pieces in the 7's.

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I'd second the above, Brownstones for high concentration of probs/hop skip and jump from car, slabby/vertical crimping/cracks loved going there as youth.
Plus not that high, flat grassy landings.
Run out of ideas Wiltons 1 minute in the car.
Desperate to get back there soon.

Went to Thorn a couple of years ago.
Not really use to gritstone so had hard time getting on with it.
Still enjoyed it none the less.
It was a lovely sunny day, even so quite exposed, a bit of a yak from the car.
Only saw 2 other people the whole day there.
Nice get away from it all setting.

Bouldered at badgers ok but found it a bit limited.
One side high ball, lots of sheep sh*t, was damp underfoot, went in summer.
Wouldn't go out of my way to go back.

Not been to longridge, would like to go and see what it's all about.

[SA Chris]

I don't think you've got haiku mastered yet.

[fatneck]

Blackstone Edge - loads to go at, not as long or arduous walk in as Thorn (but also probably not as good...)
Windy Clough - good circuit but a bit spread out
Fairy Steps - tonnes of lower grade climbing, low profile needed?

[James Malloch]

Thanks for all the replies.

Thorne sounds great and I'm sure the walk in will be okay.
If the weather is a bit iffy then brownstones sounds a decent second, or fairy steps.

Is the bouldering for both in the new Lancs guide? I've got boulder Britain but always like an excuse to get a new guide!

[r-man]

Brownstones is a lovely spot. Go there.
If you fancy something closer to the lakes, Hutton Roof is a nice friendly venue. Easier stuff at woodwell and fairy steps isn't as good.
Longridge has lots to do, you'll either like it or not. Can seep.

There are loads of alternatives in the quarries - e.g. Cadshaw, stuff in the Wiltons, various other quarries, but brownstones is a perfect low grade venue.
There are lots of amazing moorland grit spots (thorn, windy clough, Bull stones in Bowland...Blackstone Edge, Stony Edge, Dove Lowe etc in east lancs) but most have long walk ins and it sounds like you only want half a day out.

Fatneck, I always thought Blackstone was better for easier grades than Thorn. Thorn has some awesome lines in the higher 7's though.

Stony Edge is the best at lower grades I think, but long walk in (easier than thorn though!) Super friendly rock, flat landings and an amazing location.

[r-man]

The new BMC lancs rock guide doesn't go into much detail for Thorn. The Lancashire
Bouldering guide details this and all the other lancs bouldering spots (there are 47 crags in the book).

Lancashire Rock does cover Brownstones and the limestone areas, but for other crags it refers you to the bouldering guide.

[tomtom]

I think Thorn has loads of classy easy stuff R-man - and whilst Brownstones is pleasant enough they're pretty different...

One is naturally shaped light grey moorland grit with no polish, in an idyllic location with views out as far as the Irish Sea.

The other is quarried brown grit with quite a lot of polish and a view of Bolton and Manchester from the edges of the quarry..

Weather forecast looks great...

[moose]

Is it possible to get to Brownstones without walking along / through the flooded area? Maybe I am always missing the best path, but I always seem to end up wading or doing a slightly dicey feeling traverse above a pool - which could be a problem if easiest access is an issue.

[sxrxg]

To access brownstones i now find it easier with the high water levels to walk up the main track (footpath) that runs behind the houses and then cut in past a gate at the top of the quarry to arrive at the ash pit slabs area. This is a slightly longer walk however all flat on good tracks and doesn't involve climbing up and descending a steep muddy bank to avoid the pond, much easier if carrying two/three pads.

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[James Malloch]

We went with Thorn Crag in the end. What a great place.

Can't really beat the setting and we both enjoyed balancing up some slabs and aretes. The 7A at the RHS of the crag boulders is a good shallow board-like novelty too.

Got beaten at Giggleswick South the next day to bring me back down to earth...

[fatneck]

Fatneck, I always thought Blackstone was better for easier grades than Thorn

I think I meant just better in a general sense rather than better in the easier grades! And agreed that Blackstone has much better concentration of easier stuff

Glad you had a good day James!

[r-man]

Yeah, I guessed as much. Thorn strikes most people as the more impressive crag, but I think if you look objectively at the problems Blackstone might win in certain grade ranges. But hey, they are both ace.