(Thanks Shark)this winters colds have been nasty - take care of yourself and don't try to do too much too soon
SaturdayDrove around the Sandstone trying to find a new crag to visit that was dry. Both Eridge and Harrisons a bit damp so ended up at Bowles again.Tried Banana Hammock 6C which felt tough in the sun/hot temps, great problem though. Best i've tried on southern sandstone.Did Tobacco Road Extension 6B+Tried Sonic Blue 7B, some progress, worked out how to get the fingerlock solidly.Tried Phasis, 7C. Could hit, but not quite hold the first move.Fun session, quite hot and sunny but keen to keep trying harder boulders and hopefully learn how to climb a bit harder!
(particularly achey left lat)
Quote from: T_B on March 27, 2017, 09:05:18 am(particularly achey left lat)I get what feels like a Lat pain but from all the massage I've been having I think it's actually one of the smaller muscles in there that's prone to knotting up, possibly Serratus Anterior or Terres Major. They can both be very tender, worth getting a foam roller or tennis ball into the sore spot up against a wall to try and free it up a bit. Plus stretch it out loads, I'm finding doing lat/side stretches really beneficial after workouts.
Question for habitual fingerboard users... How do you decide when to change routines to make things harder? Do you repeat routines until you can comfortabley do all the reps, or aim to be failing on the last 1 or 2 reps??
S: Early hit at Curbar, did Early Doors:
I have been campusing and deadhanging in arelitivly organised manner for two and a half weeks and can hang bottom bm1k edges with 30kg fed for 10secs. Need to take off 12 kg to hang the bottom edge on the 2k with one hand
I am constantly amazed by the disparity between what people can deadhang and the grades they are doing/targeting.
Surely if you can one arm hang the bottom rung of bm2k without assistance you can boulder 8A ish.