[James Malloch]

I was thinking about readjusting on holds yesterday and the impact it has on success etc. I did a quick search on here but didn't find much other than lots of mentions of climbers falling following readjusting on a hold.

Whilst cases will vary and every situation will be different I would assume that the movement will use up more energy which impacts you most when climbing close to your limit, and is therefore best avoided.

I guess there are three (or four) main cases:

1. Hit a hold perfect, don't readjust.
2. Hit a hold imperfectly but make do with it, don't readjust.
3. Hit a hold imperfectly so readjust.
4. Hit a hold well but readjust out of habit in case there is a slightly better way (I'm very guilty of this).


I regularly readjust on holds and it's become a habit, i.e. I don't think "I need to readjust here" but I often just do it automatically anyway, and I wonder what affect it has on my climbing. Watching videos of someone like Ondra, there seems to be zero/minimal readjustments, even when onsighting, which suggests he's either brilliant at hitting holds, or just makes do to save energy.

This was pointed out to me during a session with John Kettle too but more with regards to my foot placements and lack of accuracy...


Assuming I've not missed anything I guess there are pros and cons to each approach but I wondered if there was any evidence/anecdotal evidence for what's best to do in an average situation, and how this can be improved (I imagine this is just a case of being accurate and forcing yourself to use that first contact).

[shark]

I find that readjusting I get a bit back in the fingers probably due to a short relaxation of the contraction (like flicking) as well as getting the optimum way to hold the hold.

[rich d]

I find that readjusting I get a bit back in the fingers probably due to a short relaxation of the contraction (like flicking) as well as getting the optimum way to hold the hold, and the perfect way to climb even slower.

[erm, sam]

As part of my warm up I focus on not readjusting hand or feet after hitting a hold as I am sure readjusting on large/positive gym holds becomes a habit that is not helpful to actual climbing.

[JohnM]

It is easier to just readjust the actual hold. You can use a wire brush, chisel or drill.

[James Malloch]

I find that readjusting I get a bit back in the fingers probably due to a short relaxation of the contraction (like flicking) as well as getting the optimum way to hold the hold.

Interesting, I would have thought this would be the opposite. I thought readjusting (when in any kind of strenuous position) would be like adding an extra move, rather than a flick/relax.

It will very much depend on the situation though, clearly. Getting a hold better is likely to result in less energy being used for the next move but you'll have used energy up getting that optimum grip. 

One way I thought about it was hanging off a campus rung. Would I last longer on it just hanging, or hanging with small readjustments. I've not tried this out but I imagine it would be easier just hanging without any readjustments.

[tomtom]

I find that readjusting I get a bit back in the fingers probably due to a short relaxation of the contraction (like flicking) as well as getting the optimum way to hold the hold, and the perfect way to climb even slower.

:D

[lagerstarfish]

I readjust a lot - main advantages for me are skin preservation (avoid pinching/squashing flaps of skin) and joint comfort

a bloke I haven't seen for over 20 years commented that on videos of me climbing, I do the same characteristic adjustments that I did when he climbed with me

certainly when placing gear on the lead, adjustments are useful, but I assume you were asking about bouldering

[Wood FT]

A friend, Scottish Nic, never seems to readjust and it looks absolutely ace when he's going up the wave.

If that's of any help....

[TobyD]

I find that readjusting I get a bit back in the fingers probably due to a short relaxation of the contraction (like flicking) as well as getting the optimum way to hold the hold.

I totally agree, and has tried this a lot, after reading a technique article by Steve Mac (I think!) Advising 'piano playing' fingers on holds to relieve or delay pump. I think this makes physiological sense as well, as you vary an isometric/ isotonic contraction and slightly enhance blood flow to disperse lactate accumulation. It works for me anyway.

A friend, Scottish Nic, never seems to readjust and it looks absolutely ace when he's going up the wave.

To paraphrase a well-known idiom: YOU ARE NOT NIC THE BEAST. This only works if you have 10000 watts of power in each forearm.