[psborland]

M. Home board; 1 arm max hangs (-11.5Kg l/h -16Kg r/h 5 seconds x3 ) Deadlifts- 80;85;90;95 Kg

T. Core routine b; pressups 2x40; shoulder routine with bands.

W. BBC pink circuit, felt weak.

Th. Hangboard (strength) 3x 7 on 53 off. 5 positions.

F-Su. weekend away with GF promised no training !!

[shark]

S. Noon. Suspect weather so went to Rivelin with Ben. Surprised not see others there.

Others were there just not where you were. 

Extremely elusive if they were - I patrolled the full length of the crag.

We were on Mini Beaks from around 12 until 2. Then had a look around the quarries.

Aha - Mini Beaks is Rivelin Quarries too (according to UKC logbooks anyway). Different crag entirely ;-)

[petejh]

STG: Send other M10 DT route at Manod Not going to happen, couldn't get a partner , then had a partner but was ill so bailed. Packed axes away until next autumn. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Week 3 / 10 before Mecca.

M.
T. Boardroom. HI aerocap on circuit board. 1 min on/off x 10 on purple circuit (6c). 10 mins rest. Repeated on grey circuit (7a+). 10mins rest. Repeated, 5 reps on 7a+, 5 reps on 6c.
W. Boardroom. Ancap on campus board, large metolius rungs. 13579, ladder down, ladder back up to 7. Rest time = 4 x work time. 3 sets of 4 reps with 10 mins rest between sets. Failed progressively earlier on each of the last 4 reps.
T. Fought to get to airport. Flight to NI cancelled due to storm.
F. Fingerboard max hangs. 20mm edge (BM slots with battery in). 5 x 10secs with 20kg. Flew to NI in evening.
S. Bit of route prep at crag X, too wet to climb.
S. Londonderry wall. Ancap on campus board. 13579,ladder down, ladder back up to 7. Rest time = 4 x work time. 2 sets of 4 reps with 10mins rest between sets. Failed on last 2 reps (tired). Tore large flapper in little finger while down-laddering.

Finger/knuckles still a bit swollen but thankfully nothing broken. Started bolting a mega 30 metre prow at mega crag x on Monday.

[the_dom]

Not a bad week, but not enough climbing..

Mon: Hike and home core

Tues: Deadlifting at lunch (up to 6 x 135) and a big hangboard session in the evening.

Wed: Went for a hike in the morning, then physio for my shoulder. After a solid hour of painful myofascial release, all I was good for in the evening was drinking champagne on the beach. Which I did.

Thurs: Woke up with shoulder feeling pain-free for the first time in ages so decided to do an early morning hangboard session. Shoulder was sore immediately thereafter. Bollocks. Lunchtime deadlifts (up to 5 x 135 - feeling tired). Too tired / sore to do anything in the PM, despite my best intentions.

Fri: Short campus session - my first in ages. Depressed at how massively weak I am after my shoulder injury. First the 2 month layoff and then the focus on climbing relatively pain-free (for the last 2 months) has meant no lock-offs etc, which means that previously trivial warmups felt maximal. Oh well, at least there's room for improvement.

Sat:Relatively unpsyched AM bouldering followed by a good hangboard session. Followed by wine, and more wine. And some more wine.

Sun: A big day out.. drinking wine and eating incredible food in Franschoek. Training? Not so much.

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Nothing
Wed. Nothing
Thu. Board just repeating not bad session. Turbo 1 hour.
Fri. Bike 75.32 miles 4 hrs 35 mins.
Sat. Nothing.
Sun. Nothing.