[Durbs]

Mens commentator bloke was good, good insights.

Ah yes, forgot that bit - thought he was a great commentator. Real depth of knowledge about both the climbers and the climbs. More of him please!

[GraemeA]

Mens commentator bloke was good, good insights.

Ah yes, forgot that bit - thought he was a great commentator. Real depth of knowledge about both the climbers and the climbs. More of him please!

Ayo doesn't do all of the events, co-commentators can only co-commentate when they are there!

[Fiend]

Hey Graeme - you might have noticed the odd complaint over 4 min. I just wanted to reiterate that this is in the context of all of us being passionate and enthusiastic about the IFSC seasons and in general very happy with a lot of it - not just the persistent aspect of great boulderers fighting it out on cool problems, but also various improvements like generally better filming and footage, much more knowledgeable commentary, less technical glitches (so far), M+W side-by-side format, etc etc.

We're the audience (and I guess in theory part of the market for advertisers / sponsors?) and the audience is saying  for the bulk of it, apart from just one aspect. I haven't missed watching one for the last 2 years so big up everyone involved 

[Durbs]

+100

This season's been great - a step up from previous years (live streaming from China!).
Just the 4-minute cap is rubbish

[SA Chris]

Could always run a poll? I suspect we are mostly a key demographic?

[jwi]

I don't mind the 4 min rule. Worked wonders in Tokyo. Even if it looks silly to us when someone race the clock on a boulderproblem I can see its appeal on a general audience tuning in once every 4 years.

[nai]

I don't mind it either but this idea just popped into my head: each competitor is allowed a total time for all the problems and a max time for each.  Say 15 minutes and five minutes.
Then it's down to time management for the competitor weighing up whether they are likely to do a problem or whether to walk away. Couple of flashes and you've got time to carry over but take the maximum on two problems and the pressure's on.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

[teapot]

I like Durb's suggestion ("4+ with a 5-cap seems the best compromise")

Climber needs to be off the floor before 4mins, but then has only 1 minute to complete the problem. If they fall off, then that's it. But max limit also prevents a long rest position being found (i.e. no hands at the start), which is a key issue for the TV coverage/scheduling etc.

That would be a definite improvement on the current 4 min limit

[Muenchener]

I don't mind it either but this idea just popped into my head: each competitor is allowed a total time for all the problems and a max time for each.  Say 15 minutes and five minutes.
Then it's down to time management for the competitor weighing up whether they are likely to do a problem or whether to walk away. Couple of flashes and you've got time to carry over but take the maximum on two problems and the pressure's on.

Works for chess ...

[Durbs]

I like Durb's suggestion ("4+ with a 5-cap seems the best compromise")

Climber needs to be off the floor before 4mins, but then has only 1 minute to complete the problem. If they fall off, then that's it. But max limit also prevents a long rest position being found (i.e. no hands at the start), which is a key issue for the TV coverage/scheduling etc.

That would be a definite improvement on the current 4 min limit

I can't take credit for it - someone on t'other channel suggested it,

[Jack McKechnie]

Not sure if this is the right thread but does anyone know where to get tickets for the lead world cup in Edinburgh? I can't see anywhere on the brilliant IFSC website.

[erm, sam]

Quote from: teapot on May 17, 2017, 11:14:10 am

    I like Durb's suggestion ("4+ with a 5-cap seems the best compromise")

    Climber needs to be off the floor before 4mins, but then has only 1 minute to complete the problem. If they fall off, then that's it. But max limit also prevents a long rest position being found (i.e. no hands at the start), which is a key issue for the TV coverage/scheduling etc.

    That would be a definite improvement on the current 4 min limit


I can't take credit for it - someone on t'other channel suggested it,

Isn't just a 5 minute time limit really, so the same as the vilified 4 minute rule, but a bit longer?

The Japan comp made me think the issue isn't so much the 4 minute rule, it is problems not being set that suit the 4 minute rule. The Japan comp felt like most of the problems were climbable quickly once you had worked them out but were still pretty tricky. This made them suitable for the 4 min rule where as ones set in previous comps were less so.

[Durbs]

Not really, as if you fall off at 4:01, you're done, so still has that "one last decent go" vibe of 4+, but without feeling like speed climbing.

Setting does make a difference - but I like tentative, slow balancy problems as much as power fests

[teapot]

Quote from: teapot on May 17, 2017, 11:14:10 am

    I like Durb's suggestion ("4+ with a 5-cap seems the best compromise")

    Climber needs to be off the floor before 4mins, but then has only 1 minute to complete the problem. If they fall off, then that's it. But max limit also prevents a long rest position being found (i.e. no hands at the start), which is a key issue for the TV coverage/scheduling etc.

    That would be a definite improvement on the current 4 min limit


I can't take credit for it - someone on t'other channel suggested it,

Isn't just a 5 minute time limit really, so the same as the vilified 4 minute rule, but a bit longer?

That is what I thought on first reading it. But it is not the same a 5 minute limit.

The problem at the moment is that the competition loses out on the exciting last attempt (i.e. only 35 seconds remaining so walk off)  or they get timed out before the top (which happens fairly often currently). With 4+ this is much less likely as climbers must have left the floor on 3.59, but then assuming they do that still have a decent chance of completing the problem.

The current max 4 rule (or even a 5 minute one) removes the possibility of climbers having one last big go after a decent rest.

I still prefer the no upper limit, but think this 4+ would be a better compromise.

[WilliCrater]

Imagine how shit snooker would be if you had to plan and execute every shot and the balls come to rest inside a time limit for every shot.

Oh I don't know - it might render watchable frames involving Peter Ebdon.

[fatneck]

I hear Pooch is competing this weekend?

[BID]

I hear Pooch is competing this weekend?

[Doug]

Times for this weekend's WC in Vail (based on IFSC website).

Friday 09th June
09:00 (UK time 16:00) Men Qualification
15:00 (UK time 22:00) Women Qualification

Saturday 10th June (LIVE)
10:00 (UK time 17:00) Men and Women Semi-Finals
16:30 (UK time 23:30) Men and Women Finals

Chief Route Setter: Percy Bishton (GBR)
IFSC Route Setters: Manu Hassler (SUI), Chris Danielson (USA)

Pooch is listed as one of the starters here: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=6182

[lagerstarfish]

hope for some more of this

https://youtu.be/s95VjxHUd5k?t=8889

 

[fatneck]

Absolutely! Such a beast when she's on form...

[Durbs]

hope for some more of this

https://youtu.be/s95VjxHUd5k?t=8889

 

So good!

Also, great camera work (apart from not fully showing the actual power move) - more crane-work!

[fatneck]

Japanese domination of the men's comp is amazing!!!

[sxrxg]

9 out of the top 10 men Japanese and only one Japanese male not qualifying for the semi finishing 21st.

Would like to know what they had for breakfast!

Sent from my ZTE A2016 using Tapatalk

[teapot]

Looking forward to the semi's this PM. Garnbret and The Pooch are  looking 💪.  Both topping all 5 problems in the qualifiers, where as Coxsey managed a decent 3 tops. She always saves something for the final, but I hope she does not miss the cut as it is a particularly strong field in the womens.

[Fiend]

Nice skullduggery from Shauna on her last problem