[Muenchener]

Seeing how much those outside the top 20 struggle with the problems was eye opening! Definitely recommend a quick watch. Normally I only see the semis and finals and you can easily lose perspective on how hard the problems.

Definitely. I sometimes stop by and watch the tail end of the qualis in Munich on Friday afternoon after work, and it's rare to see anybody looking like they have much of a chance on anything.

[Grubes]

Hate the way the Japanese do the final. All the athletes get slot more air time but the final takes so long

I don't see why Japanese TV think this is a better format

[BID]

Hate the way the Japanese do the final. All the athletes get slot more air time but the final takes so long

I don't see why Japanese TV think this is a better format

I entirely disagree. I loved that it was separate. I have no explanation for why, I just like it

[fried]

Hate the way the Japanese do the final. All the athletes get slot more air time but the final takes so long

I don't see why Japanese TV think this is a better format

I entirely disagree. I loved that it was separate. I have no explanation for why, I just like it

Me too, but that's because it's raining and I have hours to wait before the result of the French election.

[Muenchener]

We haven't seen that many convincing arguments for the four minute rule yet, but Akiyo on W3 was one of them.

[GraemeA]

We haven't seen that many convincing arguments for the four minute rule yet, but Akiyo on W3 was one of them.

What about Tomoa on Men's P1 today. Amazing ninja shit.

Or Jain Kim on Women's P3 last week (she would still be there now trying to match) so an argument against 4+ (controversial but yes many athletes agreed with this sentiment!)

Or Keita (was it Keita?) on Men's P1 last week.

Or Rei on P4 in Meiringen (I really believe that he would have greased off if he hadn't motored to beat the clock).

[Moo]

Nah I like seeing people climb stuff not racing against an arbitrary speed limit.

[Wood FT]

Nah I like seeing people climb stuff not racing against an arbitrary speed limit.

+1

[Andy B]

+2

[Sidehaas]

I criticised the filming at the last event. This time I thought it was brilliant. Best I've ever seen.
I'd prefer to have both finals simultaneously but if if the filming can be made this much better only by separating them then I think it's definitely worth it.

I agree with what Meuchener said too.

[bigironhorse]

Hate the way the Japanese do the final. All the athletes get slot more air time but the final takes so long

I don't see why Japanese TV think this is a better format

It does take too long but the footage is much better, especially worth it if you wait until after its finished and just skip all the resting etc.

The overall coverage was really good. They seemed to have mics really close to the wall so you could hear hands slapping on the volumes and feet scraping around, I thought this was a really cool addition.

[finbarrr]

Nah I like seeing people climb stuff not racing against an arbitrary speed limit.

+3

[Duma]

Was the footage not much better as it was japanese TV rather than local/ifsc volunteers, not because of the format? Odd that the stupid 4 min dead rule is being imposed for tv time limits, but its fine to make the finals twice as long...

FWIW, surely side by side setting for the mens and womens probs, coupled with 4+/5 dead would solve all this? fixed max time (2hrs), much shorter than separating the sexes, and also minimizing filming issues and also dead (climber resting) time.

If that's still too long I'd rather see 5 people instead of 6 in the finals than the 4 min dead rule.

[SA Chris]

It does take too long but the footage is much better, especially worth it if you wait until after its finished and just skip all the resting etc.

Double tap screen for ten sec skip on youtube is great for this.

[bigironhorse]

It does take too long but the footage is much better, especially worth it if you wait until after its finished and just skip all the resting etc.

Double tap screen for ten sec skip on youtube is great for this.

You can use the arrow keys too

[Durbs]

Fun finals!

Men's was the better comp this time - slightly gutter for Tamoa not to get the win in front of the home crowd, possibly nerves/excitement getting the better of him there as the problem was surely within his abilities.
Stoked for Alexey though, a well deserved win.

Women's was ok. W1 was obviously a bit too easy which is always a shame, and overall not many attempts required across the board, just seemed a little flat somehow.
Janja was in crush mode, though would've like to see Akiyo get the home-win.

Did I hear Janja say she "might" make Vail?

Can see the appeal of running the comps separately, however the last comps have had the M&W side-by-side so wasn't really an issue most of the time.
Still don't like 4-minute rule. 4+ with a 5-cap seems the best compromise.

[GraemeA]

Nah I like seeing people climb stuff not racing against an arbitrary speed limit.

So you don't watch the semi finals 

[Muenchener]

I'm curious Graeme. Do you think 4 minutes is a good idea, and its numerous critics are just stick in the muds opposed to change of any kind, and we will see the light eventually if you keep pointing out that we are mistaken?

Do you feel obliged to defend it regardless of your personal opinion because you are an official of the IFSC?

Or are you just playing devil's advocate?

[abarro81]

Akio on W3 was kind of exciting because of the time limit... but then cliff diving, parkour, ninja warrior and Steve Irwin jamming his tumb up a snake's butt are kind of exciting... it doesn't mean that they should be part of climbing competitions (although parkour obviously already is).

[SA Chris]

I'm curious Graeme. Do you think 4 minutes is a good idea, and its numerous critics are just stick in the muds opposed to change of any kind, and we will see the light eventually if you keep pointing out that we are mistaken?

Do you feel obliged to defend it regardless of your personal opinion because you are an official of the IFSC?

Or are you just playing devil's advocate?

Me too. Have yet to see compelling arguments or valid reasons in favour of it.

[BID]

Did I hear Janja say she "might" make Vail?

When did she say this! You're making me very nervous here...

[Muenchener]

(although parkour obviously already is).

Seeing the ladies attempting to static their way across stupid running traverses admittedly has some amusement value. (Respect to Michaela for once trying to drop down and hand traverse the stupid running traverse. Now that was proper climbing)

[Durbs]

Did I hear Janja say she "might" make Vail?

When did she say this! You're making me very nervous here...

https://youtu.be/1UFdVCf_6os?t=1h34m17s

[GraemeA]

I'm curious Graeme. Do you think 4 minutes is a good idea, and its numerous critics are just stick in the muds opposed to change of any kind, and we will see the light eventually if you keep pointing out that we are mistaken?

Do you feel obliged to defend it regardless of your personal opinion because you are an official of the IFSC?

Or are you just playing devil's advocate?

All 3 to some extent.

[Fiend]

Fun finals!

Men's was the better comp this time - slightly gutter for Tamoa not to get the win in front of the home crowd, possibly nerves/excitement getting the better of him there as the problem was surely within his abilities.
Stoked for Alexey though, a well deserved win.

Women's was ok. W1 was obviously a bit too easy which is always a shame, and overall not many attempts required across the board, just seemed a little flat somehow.
Janja was in crush mode, though would've like to see Akiyo get the home-win.

Can see the appeal of running the comps separately, however the last comps have had the M&W side-by-side so wasn't really an issue most of the time.
Still don't like 4-minute rule. 4+ with a 5-cap seems the best compromise.

All of this ^^^ Pretty surprised by Tamoa on M4 after he looked so beastly on the rest. M problems deffo the more exciting.

4 min not so bad this time. Didn't like the split format, a lot of waiting and skipping, especially after the great side-by-sides. Mens commentator bloke was good, good insights.