[haydn jones]

I was wondering what energy systems would be trained by decreasing amount of time rested, I have always rested for however long it takes to recover back to max then tried again, so if i'm trying a circuit at my limit (8c/+) it could be over 30mins rest before attempt number 2.

today I had a try of decreasing rest time to just 3 minuets but doing a 30 move f7c+ 6 times instead. I felt as though I was pumping out with swollen forearms on this type of exercise.

another exercise I tried was 18 move campussing then rest 2:30 and repeat another 3 times. then 5 mins rest and repeat the whole thing another 2 times. definitely not getting pumped on this totally powering out.

in the terms of anpow, aeropow ect. What would the three above train

I'm assuming the first one is ancap, second aeropow, and third anpow?

I find this ancap stuff all very confusing sorry if this seems like a basic question, i'm just trying to come up with some simple exercises I can throw in with my one arm hangs and board sessions.

[Luke Owens]

Not sure what the first one is training, if anything it would just be getting you better at that circuit.

The 2nd is AeroPow and the 3rd is like a long AnCap.

Anaerobic capacity is 12-15 moves, rest 2-4 x work period for 8-12 reps or it can be broken into sets of 3-5 reps with ~10min rest inbetween. Aiming to power out on 25% of reps done. Helps you to climb harder for longer on sustained sections of routes.

Aerobic power ~30 moves short rest time usually equal to climb time. One block of ~8 reps or multiple blocks of ~4 reps from what  I can gather you shouldn't be failing on this but pumped out of your mind. Helps you get more out of your Aerobic system.

Which of these you should be doing is depenant on what you're training for and when you want to peak. For example AnCap takes a lot longer to adapt to (16 weeks) than AeroPow so it's best doing AnCap and strength first then move to AeroPow 6 - 8 weeks prior to wanting to peak for something.

Theres more to it than this but this is what I gather are the basics. All of this is covered in Barrows' document and worth a read if you haven't already.

[haydn jones]

reading the pdf alex would reckon the first exercise is anpow

[Stu Littlefair]

Is the first exercise your 8c+ circuit? In which case it would depend on how long it is and how far you get on it before failure.

At the risk of gross simplification:

An = short
  An- exercises are 12-20 moves
Aero = long
  40-80 moves or long times on wall

Cap = low intensity

A capacity exercise shouldn't feel desperate until the last few reps, at which point you should be fighting to complete.

Pow = limit.

You should struggle to complete any reps.


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[abarro81]

so if i'm trying a circuit at my limit (8c/+) it could be over 30mins rest before attempt number 2.

Totally depends on how long the circuit is, whether it has rests on it and where you fall off. If you fall at 20 moves because you're powered out it's obviously very different to falling at 120 moves because you're pumped... or , for that matter, falling at 20 moves feeling fresh but because there's a crux move...

today I had a try of decreasing rest time to just 3 minuets but doing a 30 move f7c+ 6 times instead. I felt as though I was pumping out with swollen forearms on this type of exercise.

Roughly: aero pow (hence pumped out rather than powered out)

another exercise I tried was 18 move campussing then rest 2:30 and repeat another 3 times. then 5 mins rest and repeat the whole thing another 2 times. definitely not getting pumped on this totally powering out.

Pretty classic ancap (moves are more than people might normally quote for ancap since campusing is faster than climbing, unless your name is Ondra)

[jshaw]

Is the PDF you mentioned freely available?

I had a quick scan of the boards but couldn't find anything.

[Luke Owens]

Is the PDF you mentioned freely available?

I had a quick scan of the boards but couldn't find anything.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23652.0

[jwi]

For the first one surely stress all metabolic systems in the forearms. Which one it stresses the most depends on how sustained the circuit is and how long time it takes to complete.

Btw 15s and 2 min it trains the anaerobic glycolysis more than the aerobic metabolism

Over 2 min the circuit trains the aerobic metabolism to larger and larger extent.

On the shorter end of the 15-120s of sustained climbing the circuit mostly test how powerful your anaerobic system is, on the longer end how much energy it can produce (i.e. “capacity” I guess)

On the shorter end of the 4min-> infinity the circuit mostly test how powerful your aerobic system is: i.e. how fast the oxidative process is at producing ATP. Between 2-3 min it is bound to be a mix between the anaerobic and aerobic metabolisms.

At least, this is my understanding from the literature. I've noticed that Barrows, Randall etc use capacity in slightly different sense than int the french literature, or at least that's what I gather from looking through Barrow's pdf

[jshaw]

Ta!

[haydn jones]

Cheers guys. That was all really helpfull. The 8c+ cicuit is 45moves with 1 shake at half way that you can stay at for roughly 15 seconds. Total time on the wall i would guess at 90 too 100. So armed with new info im gonna say this is aero pow. (With a little aero cap throwen in at the rest trying to recover on poor holds)

Anyway. Able to concentrate  on the second two now as aerobic is not somthing im lacking.