PS have you tested Cubitt? Back when I was at Uni (97ish), a couple of mates were on the UK comp team and the team trainer at the time had them do a foot-on campus session to failure which sounds very similar to the lattice board. With a bit of competitiveness various members of the team pushed the time to three and then four minutes, each exploding off with forearms like piglets. Then Cubitt stepped up. After fifteen minutes he asked if he could get down as he wasn't getting pumped and didn't see the point.
Hi, Tom, I was wondering how the zlagboard competition maximum hang time on an edge (20mm ?) relates to the lattice board endurance testing ?
Quote from: Mark Lloyd on January 17, 2017, 01:30:05 pmHi, Tom, I was wondering how the zlagboard competition maximum hang time on an edge (20mm ?) relates to the lattice board endurance testing ?Yes, that’d be very interesting to compare. However I assume that we are looking at two different energy systems via these two tests:Lattice board is about aerobic endurance. The intermittent protocol lets the forearm muscles get access to oxygen. So the limiting factors are how much oxygen gets thru (capillary density) and to what degree the muscles can use it (mitochondria density, enzymes…).Sustained hangs on 20mm edge will have the blood flow more or less occluded (for most of us mortals, almost completely occluded. And even for Megos this represents 33% of his MVC). So I’d guess that this is less about aerobic endurance and more about anaerobic lactic endurance aspects.W.r.t. relationship between sustained hangs and climbing ability, there is an interesting study by Balas and colleagues that shows a strong correlation (>0,8!) between max hang times on a 25mm edge and max RP grade.-> European Journal of Sport Science; 2011, 1 10, iFirst article; “Hand arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance”; Authors: JIRˇI´ BALA´Sˇ , ONDRˇ EJ PECHA, ANDREW J. MARTIN, & DARRYL COCHRANE). Can be accessed via researchgate. Sorry, don’t have the link at hand right now.
Quote from: Mark Lloyd on January 17, 2017, 01:30:05 pmHi, Tom, I was wondering how the zlagboard competition maximum hang time on an edge (20mm ?) relates to the lattice board endurance testing ?Hi, Tom, I was wondering how lattice board endurance testing relates to rock climbing ability?PS have you tested Cubitt? Back when I was at Uni (97ish), a couple of mates were on the UK comp team and the team trainer at the time had them do a foot-on campus session to failure which sounds very similar to the lattice board. With a bit of competitiveness various members of the team pushed the time to three and then four minutes, each exploding off with forearms like piglets. Then Cubitt stepped up. After fifteen minutes he asked if he could get down as he wasn't getting pumped and didn't see the point.
Quote from: Luke Owens on January 17, 2017, 11:58:55 am Its not a case of "Boo Hoo" that the emoticon you've used implies Luke. I don't have the time or inclination to jack in my moderately well paid job with lots of holiday nor "spare" time to spend working on projects, especially when my skillset didn't match what was being sought. Tom had messaged me through the boards, mistakenly thinking I've web-development skills, I'd taken the time to reply and explained that I wasn't and pointed him to a few other members who I thought might be able to help. It doesn't take long to message but I never heard a thing back. I can assure you I didn't lose any sleep over it though.
I read somewhere that it's something like:30 moves = forearm fitness to redpoint 7b, 40 = 7c50 = 8a70 = 8b100 = 8cetc..QuoteOr30 to 200 moves = no correlation in ability to climb grit or slate slabs.etc..Yup you're pretty spot on there, although you have to make some leeway for people who want to do super long routes or really short power-based routes. That part will always need a bit more interpretation. Grit / slab / crack = no correlation at all I suspect! :-)
Or30 to 200 moves = no correlation in ability to climb grit or slate slabs.etc..
Could have explained that better..So, an aerocap score supposedly is obtained by taking the number of moves you do in your 3rd rep as a % of: either your 1st rep (max moves) or your 2nd rep (75% of max moves). Unsure which it is.Likewise an ancap score is obtained by taking the number of moves in your 7th rep (or 8th - whichever you plateau out at) as a % of: either your 1st or 2nd rep.I'm just uncertain if it's the first rep (max) or the second rep (75% of max) that you take the percentage against.
2nd rep i would imagine. I understand the question now....did you manage to get more than 75% on your third rep? If you did then that means ypu aerobic capacity is high i think....but you would have to ask tom i suspect to know for sure
Just wondering what everyone’s thoughts are on when to do a Lattice Assessment? I’d like to have some kind of benchmark but not sure if my current level means I’d be better off doing something myself initially and then looking at an assessment once I’ve finished my training plan.My sport climbing in the last year has been limited to a few trips away but I’d say my current grade is about 7c sport (reasonably quick redpoint). Generally, on trips at least, I’ve been getting every 7b I’ve tried second go and onsighting up to this grade. Gave a couple of 7c/+ routes a token go on my last trip and felt they would go if I put a day or two of effort in (i.e. got close in half a session). Strength wise I’m a bit shit. Had to take 17.5kg off for a 10s one arm hang on the middle, bottom beastmaker hold.I suppose I could go and do my own thing on the lattice board next time I’m in Sheffield to see how many moves I would do and make a decision based on that, but it would be good to hear any thoughts people have.
Quote from: James Malloch on February 08, 2017, 11:31:15 amJust wondering what everyone’s thoughts are on when to do a Lattice Assessment? I’d like to have some kind of benchmark but not sure if my current level means I’d be better off doing something myself initially and then looking at an assessment once I’ve finished my training plan.My sport climbing in the last year has been limited to a few trips away but I’d say my current grade is about 7c sport (reasonably quick redpoint). Generally, on trips at least, I’ve been getting every 7b I’ve tried second go and onsighting up to this grade. Gave a couple of 7c/+ routes a token go on my last trip and felt they would go if I put a day or two of effort in (i.e. got close in half a session). Strength wise I’m a bit shit. Had to take 17.5kg off for a 10s one arm hang on the middle, bottom beastmaker hold.I suppose I could go and do my own thing on the lattice board next time I’m in Sheffield to see how many moves I would do and make a decision based on that, but it would be good to hear any thoughts people have.I'd say it's defo worth bench-marking yourself before you start a plan. Then you have the data of your relative strengths/weaknesses and can apply it to what your goals require.
Pete (Tommy) - where does time come into all of this?
Don't you think you need to do a number of 'tests' and take the mean?It took me about four sessions on the lattice board to get it dialled.As for the edge, I reckon I'd see a big difference between a 'steely' day and a not so steely day.
I'd say it's defo worth bench-marking yourself before you start a plan. Then you have the data of your relative strengths/weaknesses and can apply it to what your goals require.It's relatively easy to do an assessment on yourself. I just filmed my first rep and during the 20mins rest period counted how many moves I did. Second rep is 75% of the first rep so you know before you start how many to do - while on the board just count laps instead of individual moves, each lap is 14 moves. Time how long it takes to do.For the 3rd to 7th reps you just climb max reps and time yourself - I found it easy enough to count the laps in my head and as I got close to failure started to count individual moves. Rest time is same time as the previous rep time.
Rep 1: Max attempt. Rest 20 mins.Rep 2: Do 75% of max and then stop. Rest for time taken to complete rep 2.