[Sasquatch]

M - Shoulder work - 30 min cardio
T - Moonboard Projects - worked all 5 projects extensively.  All went from seemingly impossible to just improbable.  Very good session and managed almost all of the moves on all of the projects.  Managed to send 1 project (easiest) at end of session.  Completely worked DL - 3x3x315#, wtd PU's 3x3x70#, TRX
W - Completely worked. 
T - Moonboard at friends instead of planned rest.  terrible session - still completely worked.  one good go on one of the projects, but otherwise total shutdown.
F - 30 min cardio shoulder work, DL, Wtd PU's
S - Routes with Wife - OS, 10 routes.  as good as I've ever done. either routes are soft, or I'm doing better than expected on end.
S - Cardio - 30 min bike

Amazing day on Tuesday, but otherwise not as planned for the week. 

[petejh]

STG: Secret winter goal - first need a winter. Likely to bail from winter goals very soon. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), G.Orme, Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Develop routes at Mega Crag X. (spring-summer). Send proj on L.Orme. (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M. MA. Fingerboard. 5 x 10secs with 14Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots (to make them 20mm).
T. Moonboard. Good sesh working three 7Bs, getting close to doing two of them. 'Aero' sesh on lattice board afterwards but was too high intensity.
W. Manod drytooling crag. Put draws in and worked out moves of a new route I bolted 3 years ago but hadn't got around to doing. 30 metre pump-fest extension to an existng M9. Arms too wrecked from previous day's session to send it.
T.
F. MA.
S. Fingerboard. 5 x 10secs with 16Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots (to make them 20mm).
S. Manod drytool crag by myself, putting bolts in on finish of another new route proj. Psyched.

(sent new route on Monday yyfy, to give a brilliant long M10)

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 68.5 miles 4 hrs 15 mins.
Tue. Shifted two builders bags of logs from the drive to log store.
Wed. Nothing. Last day in current job, offered 3 other posts. I was never this popular when I worked full time.
Thu. Looking after grandson went to Railway museum. I hope I'm not encouraging him to become a train spotter.
Fri. Board repeated some recent problems. Turbo 1 hour. Went to see about new job, yet another dysfunctional team that needs sorting.
Sat. Shopping with the missus. Board just did a load of classics.
Sun. Thirty warm up problems then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off x 5 5 sets with 36.5 lbs added.
Bike 32.92 miles 1hr 57 mins.

[Duma]

T. Moonboard. Good sesh working three 7Bs, getting close to doing two of them. 'Aero' sesh on lattice board afterwards but was too high intensity.

What were the 7B's Pete? Got a bit of psyche for the TCA moonboard atm and bee good to have some recommendations for good ones - there's so much on the app now it's getting hard to filter out the crap/ridiculously graded stuff.

[gme]

Duma

I try to do the benchmarks 1st then filter the problems by most repeats, finally look at the comments which generally say if the grade is right or not. Seems to filter out the shit and the massively under graded ones. Some of the 7bs have had 100s of ascents so should be accurate.

There is a user grade in brackets but i think most people dont upgrade stuff even if they think its worth it.

4130 different problems at the minute and going up by 20-30 per day so impossible to keep up.

There is also the ability to share lists with people on the app so Pete could create a list of problems he thinks are good and share it with you. Its really easy to do.

[Duma]

Cheers gme.

The TCA one has a tablet with its own account that's always logged in so not sure if the sharing thing or the user grades would work?

Suppose if pete or someone had a list they could share it to the TCA account?

Think you can't vote on the grade unless you log a problem, that right? logging an ascent seemed a pain so never bothered (obvs couldn't do this anyway on the TCA account)

[gme]

Logging takes seconds on the app on your phone if you have wifi. Then creates nice lists and graphs of what you have done which pleases the anal side of me. i have logged nearly 400 problems now.

It also means you can eliminate the problems you have done from the ever growing list at the press of a button so you only see stuff you have not ticked. If everyone logged and graded honestly then the whole thing would work better than it already does.

[Duma]

No doubt true (yr last sentence), makes it even more important it's quick and easy to do.

I remember logging seeming like more of a pain than it should be when I last tried, but as TCA has its own account for the tablet I haven't looked on my phone for ages. Suppose theres nothing to stop me using the TCA acc when flicking through probs, but logging ascents on mine - will have another look. Like the idea of removing stuff you've done from the list too.

Cheers for the help.

[petejh]

T. Moonboard. Good sesh working three 7Bs, getting close to doing two of them. 'Aero' sesh on lattice board afterwards but was too high intensity.

What were the 7B's Pete? Got a bit of psyche for the TCA moonboard atm and bee good to have some recommendations for good ones - there's so much on the app now it's getting hard to filter out the crap/ridiculously graded stuff.

Hi Duma. The three probs I've been trying are 'Vurt', '5 Finger Discount' and 'Mark's Favorite Problem'. Grades seem about right for a board - as in nails, way harder than 7B outside!

Agree about the logging thing - it would make the system better if people voted on the grades and added comments. Annoyingly there's no signal or wifi in the Boardroom training room so in the time it takes for me to finish my sesh and walk out the door I usually forget to log or comment. I'd defo do this if I had signal while training.

[Duma]

Thanks Pete, will look them up next time

[Luke Owens]

(sent new route on Monday yyfy, to give a brilliant long M10)

Effort Pete!

S. Fingerboard. 5 x 10secs with 16Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots (to make them 20mm).

Can't you one arm a 20mm edge for 5 secs? If the above is with 2 arms then you're not adding enough weight beast 

[shark]

M.
T. Depot Manchester. New venue for me. Impressive. Messed about really
W. Drive back from Manchester to office and did an AnCap session on systems board
T. Eve Fingerboard
F. Climbing Unit Derby. Another new venue. Did the climbing comp. They've still not published the results - slackers 
S. Hungover. PM AnCap on systems board. Weekly shop then AeroCap on auto belay at Foundry
S. PM Foundry doing new level 2s on teh Wave and a bit of work on my gastons problem on the woodie.

Still adjusting to fulltime working and staying over in Manchester. Enjoying the job - head is spinning a lot of the time. Dietary, alcohol resolve etc has wilted. Training sessions been good. Weight static.     

[andy_e]

I can't work out if that's a photo or a live stream of you climbing.

[tomtom]

I can't work out if that's a photo or a live stream of you climbing.

Bravo :D

[petejh]

(sent new route on Monday yyfy, to give a brilliant long M10)

Effort Pete!

S. Fingerboard. 5 x 10secs with 16Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots (to make them 20mm).

Can't you one arm a 20mm edge for 5 secs? If the above is with 2 arms then you're not adding enough weight beast 

Yeah I can. 5 secs on lefthand, 3-4 secs on righthand.

I'm in maintenance mode - just keeping the finger strength ticking over, supposed to be winter climbing but that's gone to shit because there isn't any winter.
First time I've done weighted hangs too, so I'm slowly upping the weight towards something more beefy for when I do a proper finger strength phase starting shortly.


Blatant crotch shot there btw Shark, shameless sexualisation.

[Palomides]

Bit late this week.. last week was a quieter week as predicted, after giving everything at the comp on Sunday and easing into fingerboarding

M - Rest
T - Road bike commute, evening bouldering - cut short due to feeling too tired
W - Rest
T - BM 5A routine (one set only) - small holds felt v. hard, bigger holds OK
F - Short lunch bouldering to try out resoled blancos - actually felt pretty good
S - Short outing, four easy routes in the sun at local beginners crag (mostly for climbing partner who is starting to rehab a shoulder), Works "end of year" do in the evening. Yes, I know it's mid-Jan.
S - Rest

Bit more next week. Holding off running/cycling/loads of climbing until visit to knee surgeon

[Sasquatch]

What were the 7B's Pete? Got a bit of psyche for the TCA moonboard atm and bee good to have some recommendations for good ones - there's so much on the app now it's getting hard to filter out the crap/ridiculously graded stuff.

Hi Duma. The three probs I've been trying are 'Vurt', '5 Finger Discount' and 'Mark's Favorite Problem'. Grades seem about right for a board - as in nails, way harder than 7B outside!

I thought Vurt was nails, but the other two seemed pretty reasonable. 
if you want soft, then Kemal's Var is quite good  

I've mostly thought that the more repeats, the softer it is for the grade (up to a point because of newer problems). By logging them you can do the softies, then continue working your way through the rest.  Despite doing quite a few of the 7C-8A's(including all but one of the Benchmarks), I'm still stumped on two of the 7B's with a load of repeats - I want Milk Moo Var and Melet Var.  Tried them many many times and no joy...

I wish they had dates on them.  It would help alot.

[petejh]

^ This is why the moonboard is such a brilliant idea. Three people trying an identical board problem; one in Wales, one in Sheffield and one in Alaska. Able to compare notes. 👍👍👍

[Duma]

Think milky moo var was one of the ones I did Monday sasq, will check next week when I'm back in.

[Sasquatch]

Think milky moo var was one of the ones I did Monday sasq, will check next week when I'm back in.

I struggle with the dynamic inline motion, where one hand is directly above the other.  Which is exactly milk moo... 

FWIW - I upgrade quite a bit of stuff(especially in the 6C/C+ range), but with the thought that the board should always err on the stiff side of things, rather than the soft side. 

[Duma]

Yeah mmv is def inline! Good for you upgrading stuff, some of the 6's are just stupid.

[gme]

I try to give honest grades too. Upgrade quite a lot of 6s but down grade a fair few 7s.

Evryone says grades are really hard but I don't really agree. Stiff maybe but not hard.

[Duma]

I've not found the 7's too hard on average, though sometimes variable! The lower grades do tend to be too stiff imo

[James Malloch]

I’ve had a bit of a quiet week so won’t go into too much detail of what I've done. However my finger is feeling better and I’ve managed to flash a bunch of 7a routes at the wall and start attempting some harder bouldering again which seems to be going okay too.  So from next week I’d like to start training properly and I was hoping I could get a bit of feedback on the thoughts for my current plan.

My current level sport wise is around 7a/+ onsight and 7b+ redpoint. Bouldering wise I like to think I could still tick 7A pretty fast (within a session) on something more crimpy. I’ve avoided that type of style for a while due to injury but that’s about my current strength level.

I’d like to have a good season on Yorkshire sport this year and my vague goals for the year are:

Next 2 months: Strengthen finger.
April/May onwards: Start to get back on the Yorkshire limestone and focus a bit on mileage and tick a bunch of stuff within my limit (7a/b).
June onwards: Start to get involved in some (hopefully fast) projects. 7c routes such as Tremolo which would be around my current limit.
Into the Autumn: Get on some harder things (8a) if things are going well.

So I have 4/5 months until I want to be testing myself on some projects which seems to fit well with Barrows’ training plan. Given I don’t do any specific training currently I don’t think I can go that wrong with whatever I go for, but it would be good to hear the latest thoughts. 

Barrows PDF suggests an 8 week base phase which would take me up to late March. For this, given I can fit 3 sessions in per week, I was thinking:

First 4 weeks: Strength and An Cap.
2 x deadhang sessions per week.
Initial month open handing to see how my finger gets on. Gradually increasing the weight as I go doing 10 second hangs on a beastmaker (one pad egde – not the tiny one). If this sounds okay, how many reps/sets would people recommend per session.
2 x An Cap per week.
Find a challenging 12-15 move circuit with an aim of doing one block of 8-10 reps per session.
0.5 x routes session
We generally do routes once a week so half a session of some easier routes to keep things a bit more varied followed by one of the An Cap sessions.
Bit of Areo cap at the end of each session.

Weeks 5-8
If everything is going well up the intensity.
Switch to 3x Strength (hangs or similar).
2 x Ancap but start to include campus board doing 15-20 moves on the bigger rungs (I’m terrible at campusing).
0.5 session of routes.
Bit of Areo cap at the end of each session.

Does this sound sensible? Anything that would be worth changing