[tomtom]

Morning all...

This week really starts on Sunday afternoon when we recieved a phone call that MrsTT's brother had been found late that morning unconscious in bed after having a seizure. 45 min later we (and TTjnr) were heading towards Norwich as he may not survive the night. Arrived at the hospital about 9:30 and whilst his prognosis was grim, he was stable. Other family arrived - we got to the inlaws house and bed about 1am.

M: Up and back to Norwich hospital. Brother in law was effectively brain dead.. slim chance that high/unusual body chemistry was masking this diagnosis, so this glimmer of hope led to the staff trying to bring down sodium levels, temperatures and blood pressures. More family arrived - I walked alot with TT jnr who provided a good tonic for upset relatives. At 8:20pm they removed his tubes  and he died within a minute, peacefully and surrounded by family. 

Tu: Back to Manchester in the afternoon..

We: Logport wall. Good session - managed a load of the (probably softly graded) V7's I'd nearly done the week before with Jim.

Th: Missed 'Big Dick' day with Shark and Dolly....

Fr: Depot  - another good session. really good to be honest, did 4 purples (V5-7) that I'd never done/really struggled with before. Pulling hard, trying hard, climbing well..

Sa: Down to London for (somewhat bizarrely given earlier in the week) a family wedding celebration... I felt done in and stayed in with TTjnr instead of us heading to the reception with MrsTT & Baby.. TTjnr wasnt playing ball - and it took until 9:15 to get him to sleep... However, I earnt back nearly all the brownie points I'd burnt with my hangover episode last year..

Su: Family get together and brunch in memory of brother in law... train back to Manc, got home about 8pm. Pizza for dinner....

Not the start to the new year I or anyone else had anticipated. Rupert had suffered from a degenerative condition affecting his nervous system since the age of 2 or 3... he passed away in his mid 30's where the average life expectancy for those with his condition is 25. He lived a very bright and full life - though probably endured more pain than many of us ever thought. He had his own flat, independence, a cohort of loving carers (who were as distraught as any family) and I (and the family) had spent time with him over Christmas.... Times like this can bring out the best (and worst) in some people, and I am amazed by the level of caring and support given by mrsTT's family to each other. Not really sure how to end this post - so I'll stop here. 

[tommytwotone]

Blimey Tom, that sounds like a pretty full-on week. Bittersweet I know, but it sounds like your brother in law at least had a good end to his life (if such a thing is possible). Hope your other half is coping OK.


Mixed week for me:


M - Took Una to Almscliff in an attempt to get out of the house / give Fiona a bit of a break. It was mint conditions but a bit hardcore for my little girl. To be fair she stuck it out for a bit. No climbing done.
T - First day back at work so really feeling the inertia. Nowt apart from shoulder rehab in the evening.
W - Went for a 6km run on lunch, which went surprisingly OK.
T- Depot after work, good run at the V5-V7 purples and even ticked 4 of them which is more than I'd usually do first round. Bit of a family health nightmare in the evening, so ended up having a late night.
F - Nothing.
S - Took Una to a soft play with the Fiona was at her "baby shower". Quite a bit of running about, clambering etc.
S - Related to Thurs - while Fiona and Una were at a 3rd birthday party, spent the whole day cleaning and disinfecting the house and prepping for arrival of baby.

[T_B]

Sounds like a tough week tomtom. Having a close knit family is amazing at times like these.

M - Burbage N. Warmed up at Remergence. Couldn’t do BD, which was a bit worrying. Then tried In the Flick of Time with D. Cool prob, did some moves, but not the first lock.
T – PM run.
W – Foundry lunch. Circuit board. Worked out and RPed the black 31-move circuit.
T – Lunch run.
F – Foundry lunch. Lattice – 76 moves, then 20 mins rest, then 55 + 2 mins, 55, then 80 secs then tailed off quickly.
P.M. first session setting and bouldering on the garage homeboard with Mrs T_B. It’s actually 58 degrees. I had to eat my hat and admit it’s really rather good : )
S – P.M. Homeboard session.
S – AM run. PM dragged myself to the Works for a circuit board session. Did 6c+, 7b and brown 7c in two sections.

6 climbing sessions, 3 runs. Good week. Why didn’t we build a homeboard sooner? #noexcuses

[Palomides]

Sounds rough tomtom.. hope everyone's Ok

My week had a lot less drama:

M - Lunchtime bouldering
T - VTT bike commute, vertical route mileage at the wall in the evening : the wall only has vertical routes.. backed off a couple of high steps due to knee pain (only tirggered by climbing)
W - Rest. Ordered Beastmaker, as isometric hangs are all I'm going to be capable of if knee gets worse.
T - Lunchtime bouldering, tried running to the wall and back (2km each way, about 10 minutes). OK session, but felt the effects of running there. I think 10 mins running  is a bit much for a warmup, and not really that efficient as I have to manage extra clothes/shoes and so on. I suspect that the best time/effort solution might be to pinch my daughters scooter...
F - Heavy cold. Beastmaker delivered
S - Heavy cold, easy walk around bird sanctuary as wasn't up to going to the crag.
S - Light cold, easy ride to the seaside and back, featuring a gang of friends on 25kg city hire bikes and pizza for lunch

Slightly increased climbing volume, knocked back a bit by short-lived illness.
Next week will reduce volume slightly, but increase intensity with a couple of short/hard sessions at the start of the week and a longer easier session towards the end in prep for local bouldering comp on Sunday.

[36chambers]

My condolences tomtom.

M: Giving an old friend a tour of the cliff. Good scenes, it was nice to see lots of familiar faces (and meet Una ). Just repeated low grade classics.
T:
W: Almscliff/Caley. I noticed Secret Seventh 7B+ was chalked and in good nick and managed to do it with minimum fuss, which was satisfying. Having not got on well with it in the past. Also managed to fall off Crystal Method 7B+ with my hand over the top. I've always found this nails, but it felt absolutely fine that day. So hopefully next time. 
T: Indoors. Making up problems on the 30 board. Having spent the past 6 months making a conscience effort to use smaller, crimpier, holds on the 50 and 30, I've now realised that I can launch between them with relative ease (YYFY) and I can finally admit to myself that climbing well on the board can be as enjoyable as climbing outside. If only people would set more board style problems on grit.
F:
S: 4 hours mountain biking/pushing bikes up steep muddy hills in the North York Moors. GF's birthday, so lots of cake, food, and drink .
S: Indoors. Climbed all my unfinished problems from Thursday on the 30 and managed an old project on the 50 first go. Had one go hanging the small edge holds on the BM2K and managed 1-2 seconds with each hand, so 5 seconds may not be too bad after all. Excellent session, felt strong. 

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder slightly better. Have done something to middle finger LH (see Tues) which is still hanging around.
Sleep: Pretty good week. plenty of time in bed over the weekend, though throat kept me up on Sat night.

M: Dartmoor - Easdon. Took the new guide out to play, drove past the entire world parked at Hay and Hound tors, blissfull peace at Easdon. Lovely spot with a few Moor classics - pleased to manage Easdon Arete (7A+) and (7B+) in a session, though looking at that vid and chatting to others it seems my "RH first" sequence may not have been optimal...  (6.5~hrs)
T: TCA, played on the greens to finish warming up, then few more goes on the White in the roof - no cigar, getting up to crux but not that close tbh honest. Annoyed not to have finished this off, and even more annoyed when finger started to hurt later that eve  (~6.5hrs)
W: nowt, finger sore (~7.5hrs)
T: nowt, finger sore, icing (~6.5hrs)
F: nowt, icing, daughter weekend (~8hrs)
S: bimble round swirlys at TCA with daughter, finger didn't like it, start to feel like im fighting something off - wake in the night with throat on fire  (~6.5 hrs)
S: feeling pretty grotty all day, an hours wander in the woods, slept bit better though (~7 hrs)

Still feeling shit now, at work, finger sore. Humph.

70kg.

[webbo]

Mon. Family visiting so I couldn't go far. Board in evening did a couple of new things and failed on usual projects.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Brimham not been for a few years. Failed on stuff that used be my regular circuit, got a bit of a kicking. Broke a shock absorber on the car park speed bumps.
Evening turbo 50 mins.
Fri. Waiting about for the car rescue man to assess car to see if it's fit to drive. Take it to garage, then wait for hirer car not to be delivered. Board did one new thing I couldn't do Monday. Out for a friends birthday, up drinking till 3.00
Sat. Very rough. Out for a ride on the Wolds with a couple of old climbing mates about 2 and half hours steady. Still rough in the evening.
Sun. Bike 63.17 miles 3 hrs 42 mins still feel ropey.

[nai]

Condolences Tom, sounds rough.

STG - train.
Spring-Autumn - climb stuff.
 
M - 30 mins yoga

T - mini works with kids and plenty of other parents with kids on INSET.  Did 2 more of the murples, just 3 to go now (and one of them's a slab so doesn't count)
     weights

w - massage - slowly getting there - advised to go bigger on the weights and resume full training
      30 mins yoga

Th  Sore
      invite to Secret Garden obviously lost in the post.
      3 x 10 mins LI AeroCap
     bigger weights

Fr - AeroPow on Foundry autobelays
      even bigger weights
      20 mins yoga
      rare dads night out

S - epic hangover

S- AnCap - managed 10 reps but having recorded 3 continuous fails decided to listen to the niggle in my left wrist and stopped
    yet bigger weights and tentative attempt at TRX, just pressups and dips.

[Luke Owens]

Sorry to hear that Tom, sounds like a rough week.

Inspired by Duma posting his total sleep hours I thought I'd do the same to constantly remind myself I don't get enough. 8hrs on Tuesday was the most I've had in one night in over a year...

A2's feeling better, tried crimping on Sunday, zero pain/discomfort.  Eccentrics tailed off towards the end of the week, need to get back on it this week.

M: Eccentrics:
Palms-Up Curls - 6 x 15 (8kg), Pronator Teres - 6 x 15 (2kg)
(~5hrs)

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
5 Leg raises to bar
10 Press-ups
2 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Eccentrics:
Palms-Up Curls - 3 x 15 (8kg), Pronator Teres - 3 x 15 (2kg)
(~8hrs)

W: Lunch - Deadhangs (old rock rings)
Various hangs/pull ups for a quick warm up. 2mins between every hang:

20mm 3 finger open hand  - R1: 6 sec, R2: 5 sec, R3: 5 sec, R4: 8 sec, R5: 10 sec

LH 20mm RH 40mm (Half crimp) - 2 x 10 sec
RH 20mm LH 40mm (Half crimp) - 2 x 10 sec
40mm (Half crimp) - 10 sec

Eve: Eccentrics:
Palms-Up Curls - 3 x 15 (8kg), Pronator Teres - 3 x 15 (2kg)
(~6.5hrs)

T: Lunch:
10 Wide grip pull-ups
50 Crunches
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
5 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Press-ups
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises (holding 5kg)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches
4 x 1 assisted one arm pull-up

Eve: The Cave - Good to be back on rock, first time in 4 weeks... Longest I've ever gone without actually climbing outside.

Very tentative about my fingers, A2's felt a little "worked" but not painful when warming up. Once warm didn't notice them at all, even when half crimping.

Did the end of Left Wall a couple of times then had a quick go on Clever Beaver, I'm terribly weak on this style, slopers in a roof... Really keen to try and get this done some time this year.

Had a go on Lipstick, first time I've ever managed to stick the big move to the big sidepull, managed to stick it a fair few times in a row and do the easier finish. Tried it from the sit start twice and fell on the big move, keen to finish this off fresh. Potential then to do a few links into it.
(~5.5hrs)

F: Lunch - Max hangs:
10 pull-ups
2 x 5 40mm edge pull-ups
3 finger open hand - 20mm edge
5 x 10secs, 5th rep with +2kg added (2mins rest between reps)
(~6hrs)

S: Rest (~5hrs)

S: Manor Crag with my son. Good steep limestone wet weather venue. Did:

Academic Workout - 6B+
ill Manors - 6C

Did a newie too - Still Heeling - ~6C+

Also had an epic Dinosaurs vs. Dragons battle at the crag!



(~5hrs)

[Dolly]

Hope you're all doing as well as you can in the circumstances Tom


M. Lovely sunny day ay Froggatt. I didn't have long as had to go to the match to see another lacklustre performance. Warmed up and did Hot Toddy almost straight away. No idea why it felt so hard last time. Failed again on Downhill direct which is horribly painful - dont think I'll try that again.
T Beastmaker for as long as I could bear it which wasnt long - some weighted hangs as well.
W Kettlebells up the garden in the sun
T Secret Garden with Shark on another lovely day. Just us there to start with but loads of people turned up so it was suddenly crowded. Despite thinking it was going to be too hot I did Dick Williams which I was chuffed about. I obviously got scared at the top as that's pretty high up for me. Shark came close - I'm sure he'll get it next time. Tried Zaff's and worked out how to do it but it was warmer by then and my skin was hurting
F Kettlebells and core at the gym, with a bit of Bulgarian bagging thrown in.
S Battered. I spent all day wanting to sleep feeling totally drained.
S Met Shark at Secret Garden but it was wet through and no chance of climbing. Had an hour of power in the shed then went for a run in local woods and onto Eccy Woods.


Good first week of the year. Now on 9th day of dry January

[standard]

Duma,

You go to TCA over Bloc. Do you see TCA as the better wall, albeit a lot smaller.

[Nibile]

Condolences Tom.

Power Club

Mon - board climbing. Good progress on long standing project. Back to war.
Tue - rest.
Wed - big weights and broad jumps recruitment, gained more or less 25 cm in the jumps, really cool. Board climbing, good links on project, did it in overlapping halves, mega hard, I will be busy for a lot of time. Low PE, 1/1 poor, failed at 1' fourth set. This PE comes and goes very quickly. Dead stop cleans, mega fun. Good good session.
Thu - rest. Super hard to rest, I was firing.
Fri - bouldering! Sub zero in the shade, went to a place where I had never been before (I don't know why, but everybody had always discouraged me; maybe they were shy, maybe they didn't want me there) and it's not bad at all. Red and grey imestone. Long warm up, went for the flash on a 7c roof, no cigar. Spent one hour searching a way to do the lanky crux. Found a sequence involving three more moves. Second go fell near the top with numb fingers and one bloody mega flapper. Game over? Not. Taped up and did it next go. Motherucker. Good day.
Sat - shoulder rotations; front raises; boxing bag.
Sun - weights recruitment, weighted jumps. Standing ab-wheel 3x2. Weighted kneeling ab-wheel with pauses, very hard. Snatch pulls 4x4 51 kg. Clean + shoulder carry 1x5 51 kg, heavy. Boxing bag. I am a machine made of galvanized awesome.

[Three Nine]

Duma,

You go to TCA over Bloc. Do you see TCA as the better wall, albeit a lot smaller.

They both have pros and cons, but its definitely the less douchey. There each has its share of bellends (Duma for one), but Bloc has far greater concentration of bellends per square meter.

[Duma]

What 39 said ;-)
Also bloc is way too slabby, no one seems to know how to use a brush, and it's more often crowded. I do like Cailean's setting though, so try and drop in once a month or so. There's other reasons too, but I don't really want to get into them on here.

[filz]

My condolences tomtom.

I missed last week power club, so 2 weeks in one for me, with not much to say about climbing and training.

Monday 26
bouldering on one of the usual places with very bad sensations.

From Tuesday 27 to Wednesday 04
visiting my girlfriend's family in Bordeaux and then in Bretagne.
We had 3 birthdays parties (mine included), so a lot of eating and drinking.
The only phisical activity was:
- walking to visit Bordeaux and the menir and dolmen in Carnac
- fishing for crabs which involves lifting up rocks along the beach looking for crabs. More or less like doing a lot of deadlifts  I also got 4 crabs out of 5... The beginner's luck

Thursday:
a few weigthed pull ups

Friday:
bouldering with Nibs in a new place. Not bad considering my condition.

Saturday:
ring planks, ring push ups, front lever progression, one arm hangs on the bar

Sunday:
fb max hangs

New goals given my current bad shape: train consistently and with some structure for at least a couple of months. I will try to stick to one fb session a week, one board session and one session of pull ups or on the board. Adding some antagonist work out when I can and climbing out or on the board during the weekend.

STG: structured train
MTG: climb stuff

[Coops_13]

STG: Fix elbow, get fit and strong
MTG: More 7B+
LTG: 8A

A few weeks off power club, not much to note apart from a couple of trips to the gym in the states.

Did a back/shoulder session - nothing of note
Tried deadlifts/squats the next day (with instruction from gf who goes a lot). Managed 275 lb deadlift and 185 lb squat which I was happy with (did 3 reps of both of those so could have gone heavier). I didn't as didn't want to injure myself (first time ever doing deadlifts).

Back on it this week. 

[Murph]

Condolences tomtom.

If only people would set more board style problems on grit.

Brilliant. Loved this! If only they would.

Goals
Do-able - Grit & Lime 7s
Far-fetched - Lime 8A

M-works session. Blacks and wasps easy as usual, murples as desperate as ever. Shoulders (shrugs and physio exercises). Elastic bands. Beginner yoga thing.
T-quick ill-advised lunchtime trip to curbar to try dans wall. I couldn't work out the magic. Shoulders. Elastic bands and foam rolling
W-quick trackside circuit. Shoulders feeling tired after all the prehab. Hamstrings feeling tight on...Repeat of Trackside as the lowest possible low hanging fruit for 50 7s this year (1/50). Shoulders.
T-works after work. Dynamic problem warm up. Tried to try hard on murples. Still dumb as a hammer when it comes to figuring them out. Managed to injur shoulder on a graunchy yellow which wasn't part of the plan. A sideways push the wall type thing.
F-shoulder slightly injured. Day off.
S-shoulders. Didn't feel too bad. Myofascial stuff.
S-some sort of illness hit Murph Towers.

Diet. It's all about the calories. I'm reigning them in thru January. Not lost anything yet but it's better than it would have been. 67.1kgs average (BMI=c23).

Podcast. The trainingbeta podcast this week is actually pretty good - about elbow injuries. Apparently fingerboarding incorrectly can give you elbow and shoulder injuries. Wish I had paid attention a while back. Correct involves shoulders engaged scapula retracted elbows in etc. The way I used to do my hangs involved basically hanging off a bit of wood with as little involvement as possible from the back, elbows flaring out, etc. Just putting this out there.

[Sasquatch]

M - Boulder at wall - Moderately hard
T - Boulder at Wall - Hard
W - Boulder and Lift-DL and Bench  - Easy boulder and Hard lifting session
T - Moonboard - Hard session
F - 1 hr snow bike ride
S - Boulder at Wall - moderate session
S - Rehab and stretching stuff

Good week overall. 

[fried]

Thought are with you TT

M- Indoors, good, first 6C indoors and first of a new colour. It wasn't 6C but that doesn't matter, it's taken me 3 week, most difficult thing I've done in the last 12 months

T - Walk instead of metro 1.5 h
W - Indoors, big new set, flashed 6B, lots of easier stuff, good session climbed with lots of good climbers, nice good climbers too, learnt a lot

Th- More walking 1.5h
Fr - Indoors again, fingers sore but had another good session
Sa - Then it went dark, electics blew, still walked a lot, no choice, no lights!
Su - No electricity, finally get the same cold everyone else has, spent the day in bed, finish the Christmas whisky. Walk to Mother-in-law's in the evening and back 40m. Had high hopes of a 4th session, but not feeling great.

[the_dom]

Condolences TT.

Nice work Dolly, I remember Dick Williams being hard work.

I thought I'd post here as my shoulder seems to be on the mend and I'm trying to get back in the game after two months off.

M: Bouldering and deadlifts at the new bouldering gym in Johannesburg. Decent session of pottering around followed by working my way up to 1RM deadlift. Have lost a lot of strength.

T: Bouldering and deadlifts. Another decent session of pottering, slightly hampered by total lack of skin and 5 gaping flappers.

W: Met con at home after flying home to Cape Town.

T: Back at work. Lunchtime deadlifts and evening bouldering. Two decent sessions - slowly feeling like the flow is coming back.

F: Met con - kettlebell swings (which, in retrospect, my shoulder doesn't like), box jumps, situps and pushups.

S: Bouldering. Ticked some 6s and low 7s that I'd done before but happy to not feel completely terrible on rock for the first time outdoor bouldering in 2 months.

S: 14km solo hike up and down Table Mountain for my sins.

[shark]

Sorry TT 

11.4-6

M. Noon. Lovely day. Out with boys. Met Dolly, Nic and Robin at Froggatt. Got on Hot Toddy which Dolly had just done. Rest of us failed to do it. Got close though.

T. Lunch. Systems board. Following the discovery that my AnCap routine was not very AnCappy I worked out a new 13move sequence on my board and had 4 attempts. Starts up by old benchmark problem on crusher crimps (that I used not to be able to do) then comes down the board in a couple of burly moves on large pinches and undercuts then back up on a relica of the Oak throw move. Managed it once and thereafter falling off the throw move (sounds familiar!) Plenty of scope to make it harder. Also could do the same start but finish up a gaston sequence. 4 attempts with 2 mins rest between attempts on each set. 3 sets in total but with long rests of about 45mins between due to doing other stuff at the office.

W. Eve Some stretching

T. Sublime Grit day. Dolly chose Secret Garden. FB warmup before left. Met at 10am. Just us to begin with then quite a crowd. We both got on Dick Williams. Moves came together quickly. El Mocho strolled up with an extra dog. He retroflashed it. We then refined moves with some quality beta from Becca Lounds. Dolly did it. Got excited as I felt I was in with chance having done in two halves but soon tired. Skin was getting thin too. Had a go where I got to the high divot in the rib for the third time but my fingers ran out of steam and my crimp collapsed. Decided to call it a day. Felt busted. Eve. Fingerboard. Drags. After long progressive warmup did rubbish on first set of repeaters so stopped.

F.  PM Systems board. New AnCap routine. Didnt feel recovered. Managed to hold the pinch on go1 but fell off thereafter. 2 sets. Couldnt do crimpy start on attempt at a third set so stopped

S. PM  Foundry AeroCap on auto belay

S. AM. Set out with the boys to Secret Garden with diminishing optimism - claggy and 6 degrees. Met Dolly in car park. He went home. Showed boys the crag. As expected it was soaked. PM Foundry  Wave. Climbing OK but below par. Unsure what to do as still the same problems as last time. Worked out an extended sequence on my gaston problem as a potential future AnCap 12 mover.

Two lovely days out on the grit. Its been a great winter so far - already better than last winter. Chuffed with my performance on DW - shame I didnt get a second bite of the cherry on sunday. Superb problem. Generally overdid it though so taking a couple of days rest which is handy as Ive just started my new job - Commercial Partnerships Manager at the BMC!

[measles23]

68.4kg

M: Sharkathon exercise bike 30 min
T: BM2k max hangs small rungs full crimp: 10 sets up to +55 x 5s
W: Sharkathon exercise bike 30 min
T: Sharkathon exercise bike 30 min
F: BM2k max hangs small rungs full crimp: 10 sets up to +60 x 3s
S: Sharkathon exercise bike 30 min
S: Stoke AW 3hrs: Few probs up to V3/4. 30 min moonboard. Finally managing to transmit some force through my left forefoot with taping++
3 sets per side single 1-armers.
3 sets per side campus board 4 to 1 drop downs.
3 sets ring dips 0x3

[Muenchener]

My sympathy TT

STG: Focus on ancap training now for the spring sport season / arrange early spring Spain trip: propective partner dropped out nnfn 
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: listened to Power Company Podcast on redpoint tactics whilst ironing. Does that count towards Sharkathon?
   No? Oh. OK: half an hour mobility & shoulder rehab
T:   Maintenance max hangs
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Ancap circuit intervals.
T: Sharkathon FAIL
F: Wall, Thalkirchen, ten routes up to 6b+. A game of two halves, eerily similar to last time: dreadful flash pump on routes 2 to 4, thought I hadn't recovered from Wednesday at all. But then after a rest, and some practice falls to get my head recruited properly, the rest of the session went much better.
S:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. New anti flash pump strategy: four really easy routes to warm up, then straight into projecting a couple of 7a's. Partner left early for family Sunday lunch so not wanting to make him late - antagonising climbing partners' wives being a bad idea - I rounded off with 2x20 ARC traversing.

[Muenchener]

Diet. It's all about the calories. I'm reigning them in thru January. Not lost anything yet but it's better than it would have been. 67.1kgs average (BMI=c23).

Yeah. I signed up to myfitnesspal after seeing a recommendation on a website that older "athletes" should have a look at their protein intake. But finding the whole tracking everything aspect quite interesting since my weight has been creeping up of late too, and needs to creep down again. The post-training chocolate milk & weißbier for example at an alarming 600 cals 

[Luke Owens]

T. Lunch. Systems board. Following the discovery that my AnCap routine was not very AnCappy I worked out a new 13move sequence on my board and had 4 attempts. Starts up by old benchmark problem on crusher crimps (that I used not to be able to do) then comes down the board in a couple of burly moves on large pinches and undercuts then back up on a relica of the Oak throw move. Managed it once and thereafter falling off the throw move (sounds familiar!) Plenty of scope to make it harder. Also could do the same start but finish up a gaston sequence. 4 attempts with 2 mins rest between attempts on each set. 3 sets in total but with long rests of about 45mins between due to doing other stuff at the office.

Sounds a bit to hard to be AnCap? From what I recall you're aiming for failure on the last 20% of the reps. I usually do 8 reps aiming to fail on the last couple of moves of reps 7 & 8.