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Mono-tastic (Read 14620 times)

measles23

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#25 Re: Mono-tastic
January 02, 2017, 08:24:52 pm
Hold on, surely Churnet must have some?

Gentleman's Rock has a few:
Electrofly 6C - fun
Martin's mono 7A+ - soft, good
50p prob 7B - iirc has a tricky pocket
Crash damage 7B+ - deep but painful
Lunar direct 7C/+ - big slap off two shallow pockets - painful but good

Wrights area:
Out there and back 7B - dirty sitter off 2 finger jam
Thumbs original start 7C - shallow 2 finger pocket; bit eliminate but ace

Others:
Frankenchurnet 7B and monos project to its left - super steep
Burly Mcmurphy 7C+ to 8A+ depending on how you do it, awkward pocket, maybe more of crimp..
Xenomorpho 7B on block below Witness block - I know nothing, but the photo looks ace!

All in peakbouldering or Rainbow's cool guide

Although it sounds like a decent amount, I wouldn't have rushed to recommend it as a great testing ground for mono power...

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#26 Re: Mono-tastic
January 02, 2017, 10:20:24 pm
Micro hole on the Roaches upper tier done the non lank way is about 7b with an mono move. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=302540

Mark Lloyd

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#27 Re: Mono-tastic
January 02, 2017, 10:39:57 pm
Stop mincing around and go for the daddy Action Direct, well you did say further afield

36chambers

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#28 Re: Mono-tastic
January 02, 2017, 10:50:45 pm
Digital Death 7C+ on the egg boulder at Almscliff involves a stout pull off a LH mono.

clear shot of said move @2:46 here


Whilst you're at the cliff Jess' Roof 7C has a mid-crux RH two finger pocket

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#29 Re: Mono-tastic
January 02, 2017, 11:03:59 pm
Oh yes just thought of a good hard one. There is that mono underling 8A thing at Crag Y Langridge. Think it was done first by Ryan Pasquil. Not even tried it. But it is definitely a mono!


Amended that a bit... ;)

Oh yes just thought of a good hard one. There is that mono underling 8A low start to Colon Power thing at Craig Y Longridge. It was done first by Ryan Pasquil as a double dyno from the slot, then Lincoln did it static as a middle finger horizontal jam. Not even tried it. But it is definitely a knuckle fucker!

dave

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#30 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 08:12:31 am
He's asking for mono moves on problems above font 7b+, and most of what we've had recommended have been routes, 2 finger pockets, or stuff below 7b+.....

Just shows there's not actually that much out there I suppose. I don't think anyone's mentioned Mick's thing at Curbar, takes the mono on Clouded Judgement with the other hand then big move out right to the arete. I'm sure there is a video online somewhere.

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#31 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 08:54:37 am
He's asking for mono moves on problems above font 7b+,
That wasn't how I read it:
I don't mind a few things with 2-finger pockets as well, but they'd need to be >7B+ as it's only got a certain amount of crossover. Normal mono stuff is fine from 7A.
So mono monos from 7A, but 2-finger monos from >7B+ (7C?)

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#32 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 08:58:51 am
Fair enough, I must have read that wrong. You can't have a 2-finger mono though.

Another good call would be a trip to Kyloe-In. Plenty of 2 finger pocket stuff there, get stuck into Hitchhikers sit start.


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#33 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 09:47:34 am
Perhaps examples of what is being trained for might help...


andy_e

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#34 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 09:58:38 am
Does Monoblock at Pex actually have any monos? Not steep, but certainly hard.

Andy F

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#35 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 10:11:18 am
Not that I know of, although Crouchie will know more.

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#36 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 10:13:01 am
Isn't the crux of The Vision off a mono?

If you mean the one at Anston Andy, I'm happy to report that I was first discoverer of it.  :weakbench: Mick Adams said the problem wasn't doable at first  :lol:

If you do 36 Chambers at Tremeirchion with the left shallow back two (or middle two at a push) mono and heel cam to start, it's one of the nicest moves anywhere. I'm literally in love with it.


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#37 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 10:43:10 am
Its a long time ago that I did it, but how about Poverty at Bowden?

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#38 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 10:50:11 am
Isn't the crux of The Vision off a mono?

If you mean the one at Anston Andy, I'm happy to report that I was first discoverer of it.  :weakbench: Mick Adams said the problem wasn't doable at first  :lol:

If you do 36 Chambers at Tremeirchion with the left shallow back two (or middle two at a push) mono and heel cam to start, it's one of the nicest moves anywhere. I'm literally in love with it.

No, I meant the sport route in Water-cum-Jolly.

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#39 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 10:51:59 am
Isn't the crux of The Vision off a mono?

If you mean the one at Anston Andy, I'm happy to report that I was first discoverer of it.  :weakbench: Mick Adams said the problem wasn't doable at first  :lol:

If you do 36 Chambers at Tremeirchion with the left shallow back two (or middle two at a push) mono and heel cam to start, it's one of the nicest moves anywhere. I'm literally in love with it.

No, I meant the sport route in Water-cum-Jolly.

Ahh, coincidentally, they both have a mono move!

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#40 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 12:48:11 pm
I suspect thats your going to be better of just traveling abroad to say frankanjura or building a replica. I'm  at a loss for hard mono problems and all the monos that i can think of the crux isn't  the mono move.

Theres only one that i can think of with the crux revolving around  the mono. Its the left hand variant to high speed impact(churnet) Font 7B+. For extra training you could link the teaverse into this.

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#41 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 01:07:38 pm
36 chambers is a great problem but the pocket move isn't that hard at all really, and you don't need it to do the problem. The mono move on crucial times is harder but it's just one pocket move. Like Haydn and others have said a replica or lots of replicas would probably be better.

Doylo

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#42 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 01:09:55 pm
Crucial Times with the original beta! Is a juggy mono but powerful.  If it's dry...

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#43 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 01:17:59 pm
Little Pig, Burbage South boulders. The right hand hold you stab into is effectively a mono.

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#44 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 01:33:50 pm
I think there are some in Northumberland. Off the top of my head: crime and punishment, the darkside, the young, cubby's lip, monk life. I reckon there will be others. Maybe not as steep as the crucifix though!

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#45 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 01:41:21 pm
36 chambers is a great problem but the pocket move isn't that hard at all really, and you don't need it to do the problem.

Agreed but it is a little tweaky and I know plenty of folk who won't touch it. I can't do the start moves with the fat pinch with my horrible bony little hands.

The Crucial Times mono is horrid not that I'd ever be attempting it. Deep and sharp edged urgh.

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#46 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 03:43:55 pm
Crucial mono is fine if you stuff a empty chalk ball in to sit finger on and tape up. Even I use it and I avoid monos like the plague.

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#47 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 04:07:22 pm
I think there are some in Northumberland. Off the top of my head: crime and punishment, the darkside, the young, cubby's lip, monk life. I reckon there will be others. Maybe not as steep as the crucifix though!

catapult? If you want a dyno that is

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#48 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 05:52:33 pm
Google brings up this one at High Rocks.



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#49 Re: Mono-tastic
January 03, 2017, 06:04:44 pm
Mick's thing at Curbar, takes the mono on Clouded Judgement with the other hand then big move out right to the arete. I'm sure there is a video online somewhere.


 

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