[Tommy]

Me and Pete W are trying to make significant inroads into mono ability this year and it would be nice to slowly test out the gains on mono-based problems in the Peak (and further abroad as well). I've got the worst knowledge when it comes to this and it's fairly niche subject area 

Anyone come across anything with a significant mono move? Quite happy for it to be a single move. Or know classic stuff? I don't mind a few things with 2-finger pockets as well, but they'd need to be >7B+ as it's only got a certain amount of crossover. Normal mono stuff is fine from 7A. I imagine there's actually quite a few in Wales....? Chris?

Probably no one will want to say, but if there's unclimbed mono projects, we'd happily try those.... 

[Hoseyb]

Hellraiser sds on wavelength and the roof crack project on Nantmor come to mind

[Hoseyb]

Alternatively find a tunnel in the quarries and bring a drill?

[Ru]

Peak:

Karma Killer has a mono move, not the crux but a definite pull. Unless you are tall enough to stand on the good foothold, in which case it's probably pretty easy - which you will be. Still probably the most obvious one I can think of.
Make it Funky has a mono move, but it's easy and you can shake out on it.
Boot Boys has a mono move low down, but it's not the crux unless your finger doesn't fit, in which case it's not a mono move.
Barracuda used to have a crux on a mono plus a bit of  finger stacked behind it, but the pocket has got bigger - now 2 fingers but probably still the crux (I've not tried it post break).
I think Eclipsed has a crux on a 2-finger pocket but I've not been on it.
My route Flow has a mono on it. Not a hard move though (I clipped off it).

Best spending a week in Margalef or the Frankenjura.

[andy popp]

Isn't the crux of The Vision off a mono?

[shark]

Probably no one will want to say, but if there's unclimbed mono projects, we'd happily try those.... 

The unclimbed direct start to Mad Max at High Tor would have a big move off an undercut mono hold.

Might be prudent to reinforce it to be sure it doesn't snap.

[Tommy]

Hellraiser sds on wavelength and the roof crack project on Nantmor come to mind

Just checked your blog but couldn't find it. Can you post a link to the crack proj?

[Tommy]

Peak:

Karma Killer has a mono move, not the crux but a definite pull. Unless you are tall enough to stand on the good foothold, in which case it's probably pretty easy - which you will be. Still probably the most obvious one I can think of.
Make it Funky has a mono move, but it's easy and you can shake out on it.
Boot Boys has a mono move low down, but it's not the crux unless your finger doesn't fit, in which case it's not a mono move.
Barracuda used to have a crux on a mono plus a bit of  finger stacked behind it, but the pocket has got bigger - now 2 fingers but probably still the crux (I've not tried it post break).
I think Eclipsed has a crux on a 2-finger pocket but I've not been on it.
My route Flow has a mono on it. Not a hard move though (I clipped off it).

Best spending a week in Margalef or the Frankenjura.

Ah cool, ok that's a decent set of stuff there to get started! I'll take you "I rested off it" with a pinch of salt though Ru as I know you're bloody good at monos... 

[i_a_coops]

Butch Cassidy at Dinas Rock has a pretty fierce haul off an undercut 2 finger pocket, where (for my finger size at least) something like 90% of my weight feels like it's on one finger. I think the crux is doing the move after that on the link though.

[shark]

Might be prudent to reinforce it to be sure it doesn't snap.

The hold that is, not your finger 

[Tommy]

Butch Cassidy at Dinas Rock has a pretty fierce haul off an undercut 2 finger pocket, where (for my finger size at least) something like 90% of my weight feels like it's on one finger. I think the crux is doing the move after that on the link though.

Oh dear, I did that move a couple of years ago as I wondered about doing BR sit. The mono move seemed pretty ok, but like the weak compression punter I am, I couldn't do BR  . Great move though.

[Ru]

 Another:

Converter 7C at the Tor. Although you can wheedle two fingers into the pocket in the roof (I used back 2) for those with fatter fingers (as I imagine you have after years of twisting your joints into cracks) its a mono. Its a bit painful and its in a roof and you take a lot of weight on it so you can imagine being on the crucifix as you do it.

[i_a_coops]

Ha amazing. What about mono-ing all the pockets on Rockatrocity? (Monotrocity?) That'd be pretty beefy. 

[nik at work]

Responsible parenting at summit quarry has four or five monos on it, none of the moves are HARD hard though.

[andy popp]

A number of the problems at Harmers Wood feature monos - Harmadillo being the most obvious - but I doubt any of them are going to seriously test you in any way.

[tomtom]

A number of the problems at Harmers Wood feature monos - Harmadillo being the most obvious - but I doubt any of them are going to seriously test you in any way.

Slabby monos rather than overhanging monos. They also have the added attraction of being a lucky dip! (Or poke) as sometimes they contain a slumbering slug....

[abarro81]

Off the top of my head The Vision (Anston) and Crucial Times (Parisellas)spring to mind.

Converter didn't climb as a mono to me as you can rest index and ring on the edge that the mono is part of so it's more like a 3 finger drag where the mid finger is the best bit.

The Make It Funky move is not as easy as Ru makes it sound, plus I doubt you'll fit any finger in it (Hickish couldn't even fit pinky in)

Like Ru I would advocate just going somewhere like Buoux, Margalef or FJ instead. Agincourt would be a nice training tick

[abarro81]

Hold on, surely Churnet must have some?

[andy_e]

Superfly at Earl without the arete?

[Hoseyb]

Hellraiser sds on wavelength and the roof crack project on Nantmor come to mind

Just checked your blog but couldn't find it. Can you post a link to the crack proj?

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/nant-mor.html?m=1

[dave k]

Can't think of any quality ones- but Monodoigt at the Roaches has a mono, which you don't need to use, but I imagine the original 7C sequence used it.

Also there is a mono on one of the problems on the Eaglestone (Where Beagles Dare?) although that again it can be avoided. 6C ish

There is a mono eliminate at Newstones on the Warm-up boulder - essentially it's a pull through on the mono, rather than using it as an intermediate. About 6C

There is also Cleverskin LH, which uses a LH mono (well it's not quite a mono, but only the index finger is really on anything. 7B+ ish

There is also Bionic Man at New Mills Tor over the Bionics overlap, with a mono with one hand,  7B+/7C

[dave k]

Oh yes just thought of a good hard one. There is that mono underling 8A thing at Crag Y Langridge. Think it was done first by Ryan Pasquil. Not even tried it. But it is definitely a mono!

[submaximal gains]

 The finger at Wainstones (V11?)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=109982

[Murph]

White Bait at Rubicon is a series of monos. Probably beneath you but FWIW I thought it was hard for 6C.

[remus]

Hold on, surely Churnet must have some?

My thoughts exactly!

Crash Damage at gentleman's rock springs to mind, but surely there's more?